I'm building up an 80s Centurion tourer into a commuter for a friend. As he needs a new headset we started talking about what he really needs, other than just eye candy appeal. IMO $100+ headsets, as compared to $40(or less), are hardly ever justified from a mechanical perspective. This isn't a question of sealed vs. open ball(perfectly fine if serviced and adjusted,again IMO), but just what functionally justifies a top dollar model other than their looks. I mean how many thousands of miles(or tens of thousands) are you actually going to put on a headset before you get a new bike with a new headset? I'm not concerned here with hard core mtb use because that doesn't figure into intended use for this bike, or for that matter, most C&V use.

thanks.

Brian

Disclaimer: I have Kings on two of my bikes, but just because I wanted all the components to look "cool".

I've been buying chrome Tanges on ebay lately, seem to work nicely, for less than 20 bucks. Other than that, I stick to Campagnolo Nuovo Records. I know nothing else...

Tange Levin Headsets have been considered great value for years now. Nothing fancy, but one of the most reliable steel headsets ever made with great finish for its price.I think they could be bought for around 45 bucks new. I'd also recommend the big C&V favorite out there, the Stronglight model A9 (original needle bearing version), a headset known to be a "set and forget" one because they hardly ever wear out for owners and keep their adjustment for years on most people. The races are also replaceable so you can keep it going indefinitely, as long as replacemetn races still exist out there (something like 7 bucks a set from Ben's, IIRC). But you have to pay quite a bit more for them. Something like 70ish bucks minimum for NOS, if you can find one.

Chombi

I don't think there's much added value. The only time I've ever had to replace a headset on a bike was when the fork snapped off and the lower race of the headset was knocked out of the head tube and damaged in the resulting crash (had the steerer tube replaced, the head tube reshaped and a new headset installed). My current headset has well over 100,000 miles and hasn't been adjusted or touched in over 60,000 (I presume it's a Shimano 600 since that's what the other components are).

Tange Levin CDS for $22

Shiny, sealed, fits great with a nice classic build.

I second the motions above on Tange Levin CD's, especially on Centurions, if you can have them at your door for $30-$35.
Most I've ever paid was $60 for a nearly-new NR, and it was beautiful.

Personally, I can't outride the Tange Passage, but I like to tell myself the headset makes a difference.
I'd love to have a $100 headset, but I'd prefer another loud jersey or some more padded britches. They seem to wear out faster.

Personally I think high dollar just gets you a lighter HS. In the spring of 2011 I took my '87 Bianchi with a cheap OEm steel Tange HS into a shop for replacement. I just assumed since I had used this bike for a winter commuter (I had overhauled the HS a few times in the very early '90s) but in '96 I used it and it was unfortunatle put away wet and forgotten. Much to my suprise I was told the HS was in great shape and just needed an overhaul.

Some of my recent build needing a basic 1" threaded HS simple got black or silver Ritchey loging with larger bottom BBs which I think run about $25 to 30.

I just bought a Tange Levin NJS LV11 to replace the identical one on my old Nishiki. This matched the original one. I would have gone with the cheaper CDS but I would have had stack height issues. The alloy one is nice but I can't see that the 34 gram difference would matter much on my commuting bike.

-G

Even cheap headsets, with good bearings and well-adjusted from the get-go will outlast the user. That's why Tange Levins make sense for a lot of builds..

Willing to spend a bit more? The Velo Orange sealed Grand Cru headsets are the best value headset IMO. Silky smooth, very easy to adjust, fool proof.

However, on a high zoot build, why not have a high zoot headset? Chris Kings are great and give you some bling while the Cane Creek classics are a cheaper option.

I've had good luck with various Stonglight roller-bearing models. They seem to last forever. I have a King on my custom steel build, and while it's nice, I don't really notice any difference over the stronglights.

I'm running a Delta on my Ciocc and love the way it looks. It's super light and has replacable bearing races.

I am not familar with the tange-is it alloy?
tange is a very reputable and old company.

I picked up shimano 600 ultegra or arabesque headsets, super light,good quality and cheap when you find them.
-but these are all used headsets, not new and easy to buy


I remember from bmx
tange,araya,shimano, and I cant remember the others were all the same company

maybe someone can complete the whole family lineup, be nice to remember

On a budget, go with Tange.

I'm convinced that the Stronglight A9 (roller bearings) installed in a properly faced head tube is about as good as it gets. These can be had off Ebay for under $50 on a regular basis.

J

Depends on the model. I have an alloy Tange headset. I think I paid close to $60 for it. The less expensive ones are steel.

edit: it was around $50, shipped to my door, it was around $60. It is not a "sealed" headset, but I'm running fenders so that is less of a concern of mine.

Agree with this, it depends on the build.

The only time I use the high dollar headsets is when it came on the bike, or off a donor. So my Chris King HS came from a donor, otherwise, $100 for a HS, not happening here. I use quite a few Tange and Ritchey headsets. As far as steel (like the Ritchey Logic), its not like a touring bike is weight weenie material anyway. Logic has steel cups, and an alloy locknut, and costs $15 (on sale at Nashbar right now)....

+1 It really depends on the build. If I was rebuilding my 1985 Paramount, no way would I use a $15 HS.

The steel Tange Levin CDS headsets aren't as heavy as you might think... I picked mine after hefting it and noticing it was lighter than a couple of the cheaper alloy models at the LBS.

The NJS Tange has a great C&V look. that's all that matters

The fork on my Trek 616 came off a French-threaded Motobecane Grand Touring; I pieced the headset together from Tange, Campy, and Stronglight parts. It's worked great so far. IMO, as long as the bearings fit the races and the nuts fit the threads, and the balls don't drop out over bumps, everything is as it should be.

OTOH, I would like to try out a Grand Cru headset and this seems like a good excuse.

I put a Tange Levin on my Miyata Triplecross commuter, looks good and was cheap.

I did have a good experience with the Tange Technoglide if you want a sealed bearing, they are a bit more ($60).

Otherwise, I just opened up a presumably 30 year old Campy NR headset (edit: I think actually Super Record, has the little holes in the part that is pressed in to the head tube) and the races were perfect. I'm sure it'll outlast me.

I guess I'm a snob. If I need to replace a headset (doesn't happen frequently) I will pay a little extra and get a Chris King. Next time I'm throwing out an old steel Tange headset, I'll drop it here on the pay it forward thread first. I don't cut corners on my keepers.

If there is even a chance it will outperform and outlast and it looks great and it's made in the US...the CK is worth the extra $50 to me... I would never spend extra money just because it's 'cool' though.

The original headset was no slouch. I think a polished steel Tange Levin is fine.
I also think you're a heck of a good friend to build that for someone.

I just missed a Pro Tour on CL yesterday for $175, in outstanding condition, even with a 2-hour trip one way.
He said "funny, but the very first guy came right over with the money..."

Tange Levin for me too, NJS variety. Looks like a vintage Campy from a few feet away, and high quality for a decent price!,,,,BD


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