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Help I need a\can I borrow\can I rent a tool

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Old 11-24-23, 09:21 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
They sell those on eBay for just $20...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266427214175
Originally Posted by Robvolz
Now if SurferRosa and Nlerner would do the same…….

For this is a serious thread.
SurferRosa's post is helpful and to the point. One of our well respected California frame builder uses the head of a golf putter for a crimping tool. I know at least one younger builder has learned this technique from him.
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Old 11-24-23, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider
I need to warn some folks, I loaned out my Stronglight puller and received it back damaged.
Why I would never loan out any tools.
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Old 11-24-23, 12:04 PM
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One of the nicest things someone has done here was to contact me to offer to let me borrow a tool.
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Old 11-24-23, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
I need to warn some folks, I loaned out my Stronglight puller and received it back damaged. A friend told me a thread file would fix it, so I'll try that.
My condolences!
the thread file is worth a try, I believe they are "normal" metric pitch threads, just a very abnormal diameter. But a good quality metric thread file might do the trick, I've used one on some automotive parts before and had success.
At first I only had some cheaper Asian-made files in both SAE and metric, but acquired a used Nicholson brand SAE file (same arrangement with 8 different patterns on the 4 surfaces of two ends) and I think (or imagine) it gives better results.
YMMV
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Old 11-24-23, 01:38 PM
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Well, it's not the worst thing that can happen, and I probably will be able to repair the tool. We have to balance risk, cost, probability, etc.
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Old 11-25-23, 05:16 PM
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I do have a BB re-facer that I will loan locally and in my presence.
Robert

PS, perferably with beer in hand.
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Old 05-29-24, 07:36 PM
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Well, I never ended up with a chainstay cripmer. But
I still needed one and nlerner stated in post #5 that he used a bench vise.
Well I had a cool little bench vise I made while I was in college for Industrial Arts in my cold metals class
I had a cool piece of plastic I put on the outside of the stay and put the vise on it and tightened it and indented the frame about 4mm
did what I needed.
This is the first time I used the vise.

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Old 05-29-24, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bwilli88
Well, I never ended up with a chainstay cripmer. But
I still needed one and nlerner stated in post #5 that he used a bench vise.
Well I had a cool little bench vise I made while I was in college for Industrial Arts in my cold metals class
I had a cool piece of plastic I put on the outside of the stay and put the vise on it and tightened it and indented the frame about 4mm
did what I needed.
This is the first time I used the vise.
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Old 05-29-24, 08:22 PM
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Do you mean to say that you dimpled the exterior of the chain stay with your machine vise and tubing block? Was this so that the front derailleur would not hit it while shifting?
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Old 05-29-24, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by smoothness
Do you mean to say that you dimpled the exterior of the chain stay with your machine vise and tubing block? Was this so that the front derailleur would not hit it while shifting?
Chainring clearance, a very common procedure. Many frames came stock that way.
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Old 05-30-24, 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by unworthy1
My condolences!
the thread file is worth a try, I believe they are "normal" metric pitch threads, just a very abnormal diameter. But a good quality metric thread file might do the trick, I've used one on some automotive parts before and had success.
At first I only had some cheaper Asian-made files in both SAE and metric, but acquired a used Nicholson brand SAE file (same arrangement with 8 different patterns on the 4 surfaces of two ends) and I think (or imagine) it gives better results.
YMMV
Those threads are quite small, and steel; often the metal of the thread is still all there, just distorted.
If the damage is localized I'd get a loupe on and use a smoothed triangular pick to burnish the bad sections into submission.

I do wonder how it got damaged, being harder than any aluminium crank.
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Old 05-30-24, 08:43 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by smoothness
Do you mean to say that you dimpled the exterior of the chain stay with your machine vise and tubing block? Was this so that the front derailleur would not hit it while shifting?
Nope, I needed tire clearance and the plastic piece kept the exterior from dimpling and it just flattened the interior of the stays right where it was next to the tire. I did both sides.
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Old 05-30-24, 10:22 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by bwilli88
Nope, I needed tire clearance and the plastic piece kept the exterior from dimpling and it just flattened the interior of the stays right where it was next to the tire. I did both sides.
Caution: My 1973 Peugeot UO-8 frame failed due to a crack in the drive-side chainstay, about in the middle of the dual (tire and chainring) clearance dimples.
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Old 05-30-24, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by John E
Caution: My 1973 Peugeot UO-8 frame failed due to a crack in the drive-side chainstay, about in the middle of the dual (tire and chainring) clearance dimples.
Well, I only flattened that side in the inside about 3 or 4mm and it did not dimple so I will probably be good. I rode it today and it still needs about 2mm on the NDS.

Thanks to nlerner for the idea!
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Last edited by bwilli88; 05-30-24 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 05-31-24, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by bwilli88
Nope, I needed tire clearance.
Then you should just run the proper tires or get a frame that can accept the size tires you want to run.
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