Spoke Tension Meter
02-05-13, 04:46 PM
#28
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While we are on the topic, can anyone recommend a good source for max spoke tension for vintage rims of various models? Even if I owned a spoke tension meter (something I've considered but haven't been able to justify for the 2 or 3 wheelsets per year I might build), I'm not sure where I'd find specs for vintage rims? Would most box-shaped tubular rims be within the same general range?
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'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
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-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
02-06-13, 05:25 AM
#29
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I've recently started building my own wheels and consider a tension meter essential. I wouldn't have known "which" ballpark I was in without it.
Many people will claim they've built wheels for years without one.
IMO, "years ago", they weren't as necessary. Rear wheels didn't have nearly as much dish as 8-10 speeds on 130MM OLD spacing. If you are building 120MM 5 speeds etc., things simply aren't as critical.
With the experience gained from the tension meter, I could probably now build a pretty decent wheel without one. I still use it, in search of the best wheel I can build.
As per calibration-
mrrabbit (in the mechanics forum) recommends using a "test wheel" when you first get your meter. Measure some spoke tensions and label them for future reference/meter calibration. Most any reasonable, junk wheel will suffice.
Many people will claim they've built wheels for years without one.
IMO, "years ago", they weren't as necessary. Rear wheels didn't have nearly as much dish as 8-10 speeds on 130MM OLD spacing. If you are building 120MM 5 speeds etc., things simply aren't as critical.
With the experience gained from the tension meter, I could probably now build a pretty decent wheel without one. I still use it, in search of the best wheel I can build.
As per calibration-
mrrabbit (in the mechanics forum) recommends using a "test wheel" when you first get your meter. Measure some spoke tensions and label them for future reference/meter calibration. Most any reasonable, junk wheel will suffice.
Tensionmeters are nice to have tools, but not necessary.
02-06-13, 07:36 AM
#30
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If I'd build wheels for others, especially if I would get paid, I'd get a tensiometer, just for peace of mind.
02-06-13, 08:03 AM
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I've found that plucking will get you close, and will be just fine for lighter riders. I weigh in at 225 and have found that even tension throughout will build me a set of wheels that need little attention afterwards. So I do a little of both, get it close by plucking then check my tensions, I then fine tune with the meter.
02-06-13, 08:28 AM
#32
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I just re-read the original post. As long as you're handing the wheels off to a someone else for final tension, truing and stress relief then you don't need a tension meter.
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01-08-23, 10:57 AM
#34
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I just got one of the cheaper tensiometers. I believe it is a knockoff of the Park tool. I had no expectations of it giving absolute values, but just wanted it for baseline even tension as one approaches final truing. I found it quite useful for only $25 and a bit of peace of mind is instilled in the final job. I checked one set of wheels I had done previously, and found a couple of spokes either looser or tighter by a bit and corrected.
I thought that while I did things, why not go for evenness.
I am not real confident in my ear for plucking. Just now I have some newly laced up Weinmanns that I did just before getting the meter. I’m sure they would have ridden fine, but I redid them. Not much change, but I got the evenness a bit more consistent. I also liked it for final truing to see whether to tighten one side or loosen the other for adjustments. Peace of mind I think is nice, especially with the low cost of the tool.
I thought that while I did things, why not go for evenness.
I am not real confident in my ear for plucking. Just now I have some newly laced up Weinmanns that I did just before getting the meter. I’m sure they would have ridden fine, but I redid them. Not much change, but I got the evenness a bit more consistent. I also liked it for final truing to see whether to tighten one side or loosen the other for adjustments. Peace of mind I think is nice, especially with the low cost of the tool.
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01-08-23, 12:56 PM
#35
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Oh man, we ALMOST broke the 10-year barrier.
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01-08-23, 04:36 PM
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The OP's last post was over 9 years ago but you never know, he might still be lurking.
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01-09-23, 08:57 AM
#37
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Thanks for the feedback, everyone.
That's a good reminder, canyoneagle. You remind me also that I picked up a nice supply of nipple washers on the cheap awhile back. (Hee hee, he said nipple washer). I'll have to dig those out.
For those interested, I'll post wheels along the way. Also, here's a list of the frames in queue which will receive the wheels......maybe.
- 1998 Litespeed Tuscany
- 1992 RB-1
- 1995 Giordana (Excell tubing)
- 1996/97 Klein Stage
- 1992 Specialized Allez Epic
- 1985 Raleigh Professional
J
That's a good reminder, canyoneagle. You remind me also that I picked up a nice supply of nipple washers on the cheap awhile back. (Hee hee, he said nipple washer). I'll have to dig those out.
For those interested, I'll post wheels along the way. Also, here's a list of the frames in queue which will receive the wheels......maybe.
- 1998 Litespeed Tuscany
- 1992 RB-1
- 1995 Giordana (Excell tubing)
- 1996/97 Klein Stage
- 1992 Specialized Allez Epic
- 1985 Raleigh Professional
J
01-09-23, 09:00 AM
#38
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01-09-23, 10:24 AM
#39
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I bought the Park a couple of years ago after a buddy who builds wheels for a living loaned me his cheapie (a Park). Once I got used to using it, I found that it helped me visualize what is going on around the wheel; sort of a topography of tension. I rebuilt a bunch of old wheels recently, swapping rims, etc, and I think they're nice for figuring out what is going on with less-than-perfect, used parts. It also helped me accept that even tension does not always equal true, which is a bit of a mind-f***. As with all aspects of repair and maintenance, it comes down to enjoying your own approach, and if you're the sort of person who likes reading gauges, they're a real treat.
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01-10-23, 05:28 PM
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I know this is an old thread, but still kinda relevant. I have built maybe 2 dozen sets of wheels over the last 30 years, so I am by no means an expert. I learned by measuring (counting) threads and "feel" Then I got a cheapo tensiometer about 5 years ago, and probably over-rely on it.
Mine looks just like a TM-1 but is branded "ZTTO" and is black + red. I think it cost around $10 or $12 on Amazon. Cheaper if you want to go the Aliexpress route.
Mine looks just like a TM-1 but is branded "ZTTO" and is black + red. I think it cost around $10 or $12 on Amazon. Cheaper if you want to go the Aliexpress route.
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