How do I remove the freewheel from a 1973 Schwinn Collegiate wheel?
#76
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But yes, that's a lot of adjustment, and the more you open up the spacing, the risk increases for damage. I wouldn't fret about it in this case. If that's the wheel that needs to fit, then fit it in there.
You might end up with the chainstays so far out that the crank arms interfere, though. And I'm not sure how much experience you have with doing this sort of thing.
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...you did not ask me, but for that frame, it might work out. It's relatively mild steel. And it's not like you're losing much if one of the stay braces let's go at the brazing (or were they welded ?)
But yes, that's a lot of adjustment, and the more you open up the spacing, the risk increases for damage. I wouldn't fret about it in this case. If that's the wheel that needs to fit, then fit it in there.
You might end up with the chainstays so far out that the crank arms interfere, though. And I'm not sure how much experience you have with doing this sort of thing.
But yes, that's a lot of adjustment, and the more you open up the spacing, the risk increases for damage. I wouldn't fret about it in this case. If that's the wheel that needs to fit, then fit it in there.
You might end up with the chainstays so far out that the crank arms interfere, though. And I'm not sure how much experience you have with doing this sort of thing.
#78
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A couple years ago I built up a bike from a 1972 Schwinn Varsity frame, which I'll bet is the same as the Collegiate. Those frames were electro-forged, a unique Schwinn process, that allowed them to produce an entire frame from sheet metal. I was able to cold-set the triangle to fit my hub, an old Sturmey-Archer.
In addition to the weight of the frame itself, you have to add the weight of the many other steel components that can't be replaced with alloy, because they're all unique sizes. I won't say non-standard, because Schwinn was the standard. Yes, lighter bikes are nicer. They're more responsive and fun to ride. Does it explain the increase in price? No, bikes above a certain basic level are also a luxury good for most people.
In addition to the weight, the Schwinn was just plain uncomfortable to ride. I finally tracked it down to a noticeable difference in frame geometry compared to other bikes in my fleet that I've tinkered with until I'm happy. I have no objection to restoring a historic bike for fun and education -- I've done it myself. But at the end of the day, the resulting bike didn't stay in my fleet for long.
In addition to the weight of the frame itself, you have to add the weight of the many other steel components that can't be replaced with alloy, because they're all unique sizes. I won't say non-standard, because Schwinn was the standard. Yes, lighter bikes are nicer. They're more responsive and fun to ride. Does it explain the increase in price? No, bikes above a certain basic level are also a luxury good for most people.
In addition to the weight, the Schwinn was just plain uncomfortable to ride. I finally tracked it down to a noticeable difference in frame geometry compared to other bikes in my fleet that I've tinkered with until I'm happy. I have no objection to restoring a historic bike for fun and education -- I've done it myself. But at the end of the day, the resulting bike didn't stay in my fleet for long.
#79
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......but I never understood whats the difference in a 180lb guy and a 20lb bike or a 160lb guy and a 40lb bike. The load is 200lbs either way and horsepower to propel it a given speed and distance would be the same. But I guess there is a reason for lighter bikes and all the money that is spent on them.
Even 3-4 lbs. make s bike "feel" sportier and accelerate faster/easier.
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Take it a bit further with a 190 lb. bike. See the trend? On paper, the 180 lb. rider has 20 lbs. more muscle to move 20 lbs less bike. How about 160 lb. rider/20 lb. bike vs 180 lb. rider/40 lb. bike?
Even 3-4 lbs. make s bike "feel" sportier and accelerate faster/easier.
Even 3-4 lbs. make s bike "feel" sportier and accelerate faster/easier.
#81
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160lb rider on 20lb bike is 180lb of mass, 180 and 40 is 220lb mass. I guess like anything else its power to weight ratio that matters and the bike generates no power so its better to have 20lbs of weight generating no power than 40lbs of weight generating no power. So that kinda makes sense now.
I think bike weight as something you are carrying on your back, not pedaling.
Just saving 1/2 lb. on each tire/wheel makes a bike feel noticeably more responsive.
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A "supposition" I missed was that the rider's weight ISN'T changing when they switch between the 20 & 40.
I think bike weight as something you are carrying on your back, not pedaling.
Just saving 1/2 lb. on each tire/wheel makes a bike feel noticeably more responsive.
I think bike weight as something you are carrying on your back, not pedaling.
Just saving 1/2 lb. on each tire/wheel makes a bike feel noticeably more responsive.
I had a 23lb Ross Paragon at one point, it was so much lighter than anything we ever rode before. It was like flying on a magic carpet.
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good and stay out. You've been nothing but a disrespectful heckler this whole thread. Everyone can read this thread from the beginning and see that. The topic is what is the correct tool to remove this freewheel? Two tools were introduced as the 'correct' tool. Experts contributed and debated. It was shown that both tools are the official 'correct' tool and that triangular and square teeth fit and grab the triangular splines equally well. Sour grapes Jeff.
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..... Everyone can read this thread from the beginning and see that. The topic is what is the correct tool to remove this freewheel? Two tools were introduced as the 'correct' tool. Experts contributed and debated. It was shown that both tools are the official 'correct' tool and that triangular and square teeth fit and grab the triangular splines equally well. Sour grapes Jeff.
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In fairness, ignoring advice and blundering through can be the best way to learn. Whatever skills result will be hard-won but will stick.
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i rejected "just take it to a bike shop" and i rejected "your freewheel is toast". So yes i ignored the advice to buy new parts abd take it to a bike shop. What other advice do you claim I ignored? Surely you have examples. Oh wait, you dont because there arent any.
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I'm grateful for everyone in my life that has ever said "You know, you COULD try that, but it's a bad idea and let me tell you why."
#90
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be aware thast we are trying to help you not waste your time on that 5 sp freewheel you're wanting to throw cash at.... and also be aware that your 135mm O.L.D. Rear wheel won't fit in your frame no matter what freewheel you screw onto it.
Lesson #5... i'm out.. i'm sure someone will be along to encourage you to coldset that green bike to fit that donor wheel.
question: are the forks the flat Bladed ones, or a rounder, tube-like profile?
ps.. those seats hurt my seat. Below is an old style schwinn black leather seat rider...
https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/5V...UJi5kFTzmC.jpg
Lesson #5... i'm out.. i'm sure someone will be along to encourage you to coldset that green bike to fit that donor wheel.
question: are the forks the flat Bladed ones, or a rounder, tube-like profile?
ps.. those seats hurt my seat. Below is an old style schwinn black leather seat rider...
https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/5V...UJi5kFTzmC.jpg
#91
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It's never the best way to learn. You hit the nail on the head with the word "blundering". Blundering is never best, if it can be prevented by taking the advice of those with more knowledge and experience.
I'm grateful for everyone in my life that has ever said "You know, you COULD try that, but it's a bad idea and let me tell you why."
I'm grateful for everyone in my life that has ever said "You know, you COULD try that, but it's a bad idea and let me tell you why."
That said: ". . . . and let me tell you why" - I wish I'd done that more often when I was running service departments in bike stores.
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thats not the tone you took with me. You didnt tell me why anything. And im still waiting for those examples which you cant produce.
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The best example is buy the correct tool. Many tools can do the job. That doesn’t make them correct.
I admit it took me a while to figure out you’re the same dude who wanted a professional truing stand for like under $10 bucks. This thread all makes sense now.
I admit it took me a while to figure out you’re the same dude who wanted a professional truing stand for like under $10 bucks. This thread all makes sense now.
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Anyone know what threading Schwinn used with for their French freewheels?
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Im waiting for examples from Jeff where I ignored expert advice as he falsely claimed. Those are the examples we are talking about. Of course, he is not able to produce them because they do not exist, just as you are not able to post a quote from me saying I want a pro stand for under $10. But feel free to continue on humiliating yourself with your emotional hyperbole if it makes you feel better. Its showing the forum much more about you than me. The FR-4 tool has been shown in this thread by experts to be a authorized correct tool for this freewheel. You are in denial.
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Im waiting for examples from Jeff where I ignored expert advice as he falsely claimed. Those are the examples we are talking about. Of course, he is not able to produce them because they do not exist, just as you are not able to post a quote from me saying I want a pro stand for under $10. But feel free to continue on humiliating yourself with your emotional hyperbole if it makes you feel better. Its showing the forum much more about you than me. The FR-4 tool has been shown in this thread by experts to be a authorized correct tool for this freewheel. You are in denial.
Here is a recent example, from my own limited experience, which is when I finally chose to employ the ignore function. I do not know why this is the case, but this is the solution that worked for me.
Good luck with your project. I started out working in bikes of about this age and sort, back when I was commuting on them in the early 80's. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, and they will withstand a lot of abuse.
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...I honestly do not remember, but if you have both a standard British threaded RH adjustable BB cup, and a French threaded adjustable BB cup, it's pretty simple to use them as a go/no go tool to see which one threads easily and fully into the freewheel. I keep one of each in my bicycle toolbox, for just this purpose. Otherwise, you need a thread gauge. I have one somewhere, but usually it's in an inconvenient place when I need to check this.
They will both start out into the freewheel, but the wrong one will start to jam up about three or four turns in. Don't force it, and make sure the threads are clean and oiled when you do it. If you get a cup stuck inside the freewheel, extricate it with something like a pump plier, with the jaws wrapped in rubber or electrical tape to protect the threading of your test cup.
They will both start out into the freewheel, but the wrong one will start to jam up about three or four turns in. Don't force it, and make sure the threads are clean and oiled when you do it. If you get a cup stuck inside the freewheel, extricate it with something like a pump plier, with the jaws wrapped in rubber or electrical tape to protect the threading of your test cup.
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