Hubba
#26
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I ride a disc cog on my SS MTB occasionally so I can ride it on fixed on trails. It works fine, never had a problem besides feeling my wheels dish being a lil off, but its just for a few hours here and there.
The sellers of this product never want to discuss likely need to redish wheels using their product while pushing their scenario that fixiefoos ordinary track hubs seem to self-destruct on a regular basis?
#27
Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter
This silly bolt on trend is meh.
#28
Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter
This silly bolt on trend is meh.
#31
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You're all talking about the track, yet I have never seen a track nor raced on one. I don't even think we have one in my country. I wouldn't wanna be on one either, since I love the nature. My post was purely from a road perspective.
But now that you mention the track, I don't think 6 normal bolts are that more, if at all, timeconsuming than a fiddly lockring with possible slip of the tool. Also, a T-shaped 4mm hex tool weighs and consumes "nothing" compared to the bulky track tools.
Given I have never been on a track, I know nothing (Jon Snow), but I think I'd prefer the bolt-on if I was to switch cogs often. Seems much easier to me, but what do I know, right?
But now that you mention the track, I don't think 6 normal bolts are that more, if at all, timeconsuming than a fiddly lockring with possible slip of the tool. Also, a T-shaped 4mm hex tool weighs and consumes "nothing" compared to the bulky track tools.
Given I have never been on a track, I know nothing (Jon Snow), but I think I'd prefer the bolt-on if I was to switch cogs often. Seems much easier to me, but what do I know, right?
#32
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the pros of these hubs are the safety for skid, in first places, cauz i've seen too many cheap hubs on fixie bikes out there ruining the threads and loosing transmission/brakes.
then there's the sturdiness and durability on rough roads.
obviously this is not aplicable in velodrome. I've seen many racers without lockring, in velodrome, to change gear faster. is this something you'd do out there on the roads? don't think so. =)
velodrome and roads are two different places. my idea is that what's the best in one, could be not that good in the other.
and if you really race, you won't use your racing wheels with superlight tubulars on the road, so you'll have 2 sets (minimum).
moser did the hour record with a 15t at the back.
i don't know you, but for me, 15t is more than enough. obviously what matter is the ratio. and you have to say what you have on the front. i have a 53t
=)
then there's the sturdiness and durability on rough roads.
obviously this is not aplicable in velodrome. I've seen many racers without lockring, in velodrome, to change gear faster. is this something you'd do out there on the roads? don't think so. =)
velodrome and roads are two different places. my idea is that what's the best in one, could be not that good in the other.
and if you really race, you won't use your racing wheels with superlight tubulars on the road, so you'll have 2 sets (minimum).
moser did the hour record with a 15t at the back.
i don't know you, but for me, 15t is more than enough. obviously what matter is the ratio. and you have to say what you have on the front. i have a 53t
=)
#34
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My friend, you gotta think about the simplr fact that gear ratios as we know it works jus because we use a 28 inch wheel, so you can directly compare the ratio and that is a perfectly good way to compare the thing that really matters, which is development.
That 88 wheel is not 28inch so you can't go with teeth in the common way.
Roughly it is + 2inch in wheel, +1 teeth in cog or 3 teeth in front ring.
I was talking of 51.151 one, btw
That 88 wheel is not 28inch so you can't go with teeth in the common way.
Roughly it is + 2inch in wheel, +1 teeth in cog or 3 teeth in front ring.
I was talking of 51.151 one, btw