Petersrock

Thanks for the advice. I am planning to use it as a single speed. As for the axle it is 9.8mm diameter and is too large for the wingnuts Id like to use. The wingnuts came off of a Shimano 3 speed hub. Maybe that will help identify the proper axel size. I also needs to be longer as this sits flush with the outside of the dropouts

Petersrock

The inner distance between dropouts is 125mm
Outer distance is 133mm
Locknut distance is 109mm

Are single speed hubs wider than a hub for a cassette or can it be adjusted with spacers without any problem? Thanks

cudak888 

According to one of the fellows above, Schwinn used 126mm spacing on their 5 speeds (usually 120mm on most other bikes) due to an additional spacer on their 5-speed freewheels.

By locknut distance, are you including the nuts as well, or are you measuring the surfaces of the bearing raceways as they pop out of the hub? In total, with the spacers, you'll want 126mm spacing. But you'll need a solid axle to do it with nuts.

-Kurt

Prowler 

One last post to take the macro view. IIRC building a wheel involves several factors that need to be optimized for each application. EX: The solution for a multi speed (FW) design are different than for a single speed. The need for and location of spacers are part of but not all of the solution. A design needs to:

a) ensure the rim is centered in the frame. The hub may or may not be centered.
b) ensure the cog, or the smallest cog, is not so close to the DO that the chain drags on the DS seat stay
c) provide a good chain line - an alignment with the chain ring/rings
d) not result in un-needed load on the hub bearings (ex: using 135mm spacing for a single speed)
e) not necessitating too much dish on the rear wheel - weaken the wheel

So, for the OP, you need to think of the whole solution. Fortunately the frame of a Varsity is easy to respace, to 120mm or even less if needed. But consider and decide how you intend to lace the wheel, width of the single speed FW, width of spacers, washers, even the lock nuts. I modified a FW hub on an old Lotus yesterday. Used locknuts that were wider but had teeth on them to engage the frame better. Had to adjust several things to ensure it all worked. It can be a bit of a juggling act but worth the attention to detail. FYI, below is a photo of a typical build FW hub (on its way to the recycler). Axle is 3/8" - 26tpi. Not UNC nor UNF but typical for solid axle bicycle rear hubs. OLD is 135mm for a 7spd FW. IIRC, wing nuts are for solid axles vs hollow axles. Also they came on antique bikes and may not fit our current standard solid axles.

Notice too that. solid or hollow/QR axles, there are a variety of widths for spacers, washers, cones and locknuts. Numerous combinations to get you what you want. Almost as many combinations as "Carter has liver pills".

Petersrock

Thanks for all of the advice everyone. I got a new 26t axel set. Im attaching some photos below. I mounted it on the frame and it looks to be lining up nicely. Im not sure how to do that besides eyeballing it. I suppose it will be helpful to have the chaining installed also.

The problem Im having now is that the new cones are a bit smaller than the ones that came with the hub. Obviously the old ones are slightly loose on the new axle but would I be better off using those since they will be secured by the locknut or should I accept the extra half mm or so of space with the new cones. Is it reasonable to try to find a slightly larger cone that fits on the 26t? Finally, the cones came with washer-type rings around them. I took one off because it wouldn't let the cone seat on the bearings.


This is the spacing with the new cone. A bit more bearing is visible vs the old one




This is the spacing between the cone and the hub with the original cone that is slightly loose on the new 26t axle



New cone on left vs original on right

cudak888 

It's fine for what it is, unless you intend to ride in the pouring rain all the time.

Get some narrower spacers from the hardware store to even out the offset of the left and right sides of the hub.

-Kurt

Petersrock

Thanks Kurt, I appreciate it, Ive got lots of questions but Im really trying to lern as much as I can and do this project the right way. Im assuming you are talking bout washers for the spacers? Is there a particular measurement Im aiming for with regard to the spacing? Do I want the spacing to be even on each side or do I want it to be offset a bit toward the drive side to create a straighter line between the single speed freewheel and the front chainring? With regard to the single speed freewheel, is there anything I should be looking for in terms of fit or should a Schwinn single speed freewheel work ok?

cudak888 

Not as much washers for the existing left-side (ex-right side) spacer, but two slightly narrower spacers (which act, coincidentally, as washers) which you can divvy between the left and right sides of the hub to even it out.

You could have a bit more axle on the left side - and you probably will to get the chainline reasonably close - but you don't necessarily want to overdo it either. Supposedly, the Varsity is spaced at 126mm. Ideally, it'd be nice if you could bring it down to 120 so you wouldn't have so much axle to deal with, but re-spacing the rear triangle is best done only if you have both a frame and dropout alignment tool (video of RJ The Bike Guy's generic alignment tool for both the frame and hub below). Plus, it may be difficult to bend the rear triangle of the Varsity without a bit of leverage.



The other thing you have to take into consideration is the width of the singlespeed freewheel itself. No need to go for a Schwinn part, any modern BMX freewheel with recesses for a four-prong remover will do the job well.

-Kurt