Most compatible Shimano splined cassette for a Campy rider?
#26
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I found 0.2mm thick polystyrene sheets at the art supply store. And now that I have the cassette I can use it as a template to cut the spacers out. I can even put the splines in but they probably aren't necessary.
#27
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I cut out the spacers and it was a royal PITA but I loosely put it together and it looks to lne up with my Campy cluster.
#28
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The problem is that none of the current generation of smart, wheel-off trainers support Campy 10. Wahoo supported it up to 2016 but no longer with the newer ones. I think since Campy 11 works with Shimano they just dropped it as only us old folk are still using 10. As for buying another road bike, my wife would throw me out of the house! We already have 9 bikes in the house. But I do have a friction shifted classic Campy SR bike that could go on the trainer and with friction shifting it doesn't matter what the spacing is. I'd have to get a new saddle for it as it has the original from the 1980s still. I don't know what they were thinking back then, but they weren't taking into consideration the shape of one's arse.
In any case I'm looking forward to having a smart trainer this winter. As much as I could follow along with a power meter on a dumb trainer I still felt there was something missing. I'll have to make sure I have FTP/4DP numbers set correctly so it doesn't kill me.
In any case I'm looking forward to having a smart trainer this winter. As much as I could follow along with a power meter on a dumb trainer I still felt there was something missing. I'll have to make sure I have FTP/4DP numbers set correctly so it doesn't kill me.
#29
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My Kickr Core arrives on Tuesday, and I've got the cassette built, so I'm good. I'll report back on the trainer after I've used it a bit. And if the cassette works I'll have solved an old problem without buying a super expensive cassette or an extra gizmo, neither of which were ever an attractive enough option anyway.
When I bought my bike new in 2005, the shop guys all said that these things may work, but it wasn't like having original Campy, and reminded me I just spent some big money on Campy so why kluge it? They were right. I just rebuilt the shifter too, and it feels brand new.
When I bought my bike new in 2005, the shop guys all said that these things may work, but it wasn't like having original Campy, and reminded me I just spent some big money on Campy so why kluge it? They were right. I just rebuilt the shifter too, and it feels brand new.
#30
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I have it all set up and the cassette works great with the spacers. I had to use the 1mm spacer that comes with the Shimano cassette in the back. I tried it first without it and all the shifts were messed up, but with it the whole thing fell into place. I did not adjust the derailleur in any way so I'm compatible with both trainer and wheel.
As for the trainer, that thing is going to beat my arse, IWBMATTKYT.
As for the trainer, that thing is going to beat my arse, IWBMATTKYT.
#31
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That's a cool solution, glad it worked out. Thanks for the followup post about how it worked out.
#32
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One more comment on this new setup. I haven't used my bike on the trainer except to try it out because the weather is still plenty warm to ride outside, even in shorts still. So after the trainer I put the wheel back on and rode outside this weekend and I still have silence from the drivetrain. That's a good sign that I have this pretty much nailed.
#33
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And now I've used the trainer a number of times, and the shifting just works. I've come to find out though that I almost never need to shift, although I really knew that. Until you use ERG mode though you don't realize that the trainer really does equalize everything else by always holding power steady no matter what cadence or speed.
I've swapped back and forth a number of times too between wheel and trainer and it always works. The critical distance is between the first cog and the dropout, and once you have that the same between the setups you don't have any further trouble.
I'll have to say too that this thing is going to make me stronger, much stronger. I'll come out of the off season even stronger than going in.
I've swapped back and forth a number of times too between wheel and trainer and it always works. The critical distance is between the first cog and the dropout, and once you have that the same between the setups you don't have any further trouble.
I'll have to say too that this thing is going to make me stronger, much stronger. I'll come out of the off season even stronger than going in.
#34
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I must have an 80s arse. To my bum, nothing is as comfy as a simple compound curve, as opposed to all the stuff today that's either complicated by slots and smaller radius curves, or just completely lacking the fore-aft inside curve that makes it, you know, a saddle.
#35
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1980s derriere
Same here, which is handy with vintage bikes, my '80 Conocrs would look strange on the latest wizbang carbon.
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I have this one carbon seat by Kuota that has the classic shape, but I can't find another one like it. I've tried a few of the $20 eBay numbers, but they're all wrong. Been thinking I should take a mould off it and make my own shells, and graft em onto the carbon rails from the ones that don't fit. The Kuota shape is almost perfect; the only thing is that the nose is a bit sharp and catches on my dacks (not to mention looking a bit dangerous if I crash), but that shouldn't be too hard to sort out.
#37
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Thread Starter
I have this one carbon seat by Kuota that has the classic shape, but I can't find another one like it. I've tried a few of the $20 eBay numbers, but they're all wrong. Been thinking I should take a mould off it and make my own shells, and graft em onto the carbon rails from the ones that don't fit. The Kuota shape is almost perfect; the only thing is that the nose is a bit sharp and catches on my dacks (not to mention looking a bit dangerous if I crash), but that shouldn't be too hard to sort out.
Also, I did a trainer ride using simulation mode, and that requires shifting up and down for hills. It worked great with my Campimano setup.
#38
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Not true. Elite Direto and Drivo have a campy 10 speed hub available as an option for about 50$. I currently have a 10 speed Chorus drivetrain on a Direto with the Campy hub option. It works fine.
#39
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I spent about $5 for a package of plastic sheets that I used as extra spacers. It worked out fine on my Kickr Core.
#40
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Hi zacster,
Yes, you did say you used plastic spacers for your Kicker Core, to be able to continue using your 10 speed Campy drivetrain.
I also like my 10 speed Campy drivetrain! In case I decide to change to a Core in the future, which thickness spacers did you ultimately end up using (i.e. the plastic sheet thickness and which original Shimano cassette spacers you kept - in addition to the plastic sheet spacers, and at which cogs specifically) also, exactly which Shimano 10 speed cassette model did you end up using?
Many thanks in advance for this invalueable info!
Yes, you did say you used plastic spacers for your Kicker Core, to be able to continue using your 10 speed Campy drivetrain.
I also like my 10 speed Campy drivetrain! In case I decide to change to a Core in the future, which thickness spacers did you ultimately end up using (i.e. the plastic sheet thickness and which original Shimano cassette spacers you kept - in addition to the plastic sheet spacers, and at which cogs specifically) also, exactly which Shimano 10 speed cassette model did you end up using?
Many thanks in advance for this invalueable info!
#41
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I haven't found any conversion cassettes yet. Wheels MFG also used to have, but both WM and AC were expensive. I had looked into these years ago when I bought a Campy bike but had a pair of nice Shimano wheels. Ultimately I just bought some Campy wheels.
And of course Campy 10 is midway between Shimano 9 and 10 in pitch, so neither will work.
The freehub on the trainer is 11 speed, so I have some leeway with what goes on.
Again, I'll try a 10s Shimano and hope for the best.
And of course Campy 10 is midway between Shimano 9 and 10 in pitch, so neither will work.
The freehub on the trainer is 11 speed, so I have some leeway with what goes on.
Again, I'll try a 10s Shimano and hope for the best.
Ambrosio makes one too
https://rsicycles.co.uk/index.php/cy...ription_tabbed
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s150...ano-Compatible
Last edited by superdex; 03-25-19 at 01:32 PM.
#42
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The plastic sheet was .2mm thick. I used an Ultegra 10sp cassette and put the extra spacer between each of the loose cogs. The three largest cogs are a single unit, and I think I didn't put one between the first and second cogs because they sort of fit into each other and the spacer wouldn't fit, plus the final 1mm spacer behind it all. It all works though. It wouldn't work without the spacers as the accumulated spacing is off by 1.8mm without them, but only by .6mm with them. It doesn't sound like much but it is enough to make them incompatible if you like quiet running. I tried using a Shimano wheel with the same Campy 10 setup and it was always between gears somewhere no matter how I aligned it. And as I stated already, it only all works with an 11 speed Shimano hub. You run out of space on a 10sp.
no zombies here.
no zombies here.
#43
Full Member
I did the plastic sheet trick like10 years ago (when every office had plastic sheet for overhead projectors in the supply cupboard) but tried it on a 10 spd hub which meant I couldn't squeeze on more than a few shims before the lock sprocket would not engage. As far as I could see all clear plastic sheet for use in a laser printer is 0.2 mm thick so will work. Here is a pic of some shims I made from milk bottles which are about 0.3mm thick but the idea is the same. Just make sure the inner circle clears over the freehub splines and don't worry about bits between the spines.
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#44
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What's an "overhead projector"?
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