aaronM46

Um, Yikes! Did this brand just face roll on their keyboard to come up with a name?

aaronM46

I have decided to go with these items to replace my bars:

Ritchey 4-Axis Adjustable Aluminum Alloy Bike Stem - 31.8mm clamp

Range Handlebar Gen 3 (Cement Grey - 31.8mm)

I cannot ride with the bars I have now. They are bending my wrists too far inward and are terribly uncomfortable. I hope that what I have chosen will alleviate that. A lot more money than I wanted to spend but F it. I am already DEEP into this. The only thing left to replace after this would be the frame and maybe forks and I am actually pretty happy with the frame.

I will say that I MIGHT not be happy with the solid front forks. I may need to get shock forks. I don't like the shock forces on my wrists but I am going to see how it is with better bars before I jump on that.

Russ Roth

Interesting premise, how is your front shifting? Couldn't really tell what front der and shifter you settled on. For 7-early 10sp, road and mtb shared the same rear der shift ratio but with 9sp stopped sharing front der shifting ratios with triples. That's why when you look at a 9 or 10sp triple shifter you'll see a bigger space between the 1 and 2 than between the 2 and 3. Shimano put a longer pull into the der for that initial jump, I suspect so they could justify selling sora and tiagra flat bar levers for more than their equivalent mtb shifters.
For basic brakes I would look at shimano mt200 as someone suggested or check out merlin cycles for some affordable tektros, be about 100.00 to your door for a full set including discs.


Yes, one is particularly terrifying when careening down rural Serbian roads at 60mph as you flash past all the roadside shrines to people who have tragically died from driving their Yugo too fast. The other one figures prominently in Silver alerts from elderly going senile and driving off into oblivion.

aaronM46

I posted the parts that I used. Shifting is awesome and pretty dang seamless. A bit of noise on cross shifting but on 3x9 I would expect that. Not a gear selection that would be used anyway. I have tuned it to near perfection. Almost every gear change is fast and not noticeable. I am really impressed by the silence. The front derailleur is a cheap Shimano Tourney but it was basically all I could find. It works, so I will keep it.

PhilFo 

Campagnolo isn't any more expensive than the same grade from another manufacturer. One just has to save up money to make their vision a reality.
One thing to think of is the quality of durable goods; in that, if you buy high quality, your initial expense will pay off in the end because the higher quality will usually last longer, have more adjustability and reparability vs. replacement. You can buy one very good, expensive pair of boots which can last decades, and you can also spend many times more buying garbage shoes over the same time period.

djsincity2000

My wife hates it when I work in the living room too lol. I see great protentional with this build!

squirtdad

how is the handling.....??

smd4

"Sensitive."

aaronM46

Yes. It is sensitive. I will report back once the new bars are on. For now, I am getting used to it. I might like a larger tire to be honest but I will wear these out first.

Here are some pics.

aaronM46

aaronM46

So far I have about 50 miles on it. I am wanting my new bars so badly. These bars suck so badly. I feel so confined and boxed in because of the terrible backsweep angle and how narrow they are. I was able to heat the front brake rotor up in the oven and get it straightened out. No more noise or warping. I have the new Ritchey Stem, I just need the bars.

What do you call the little conical cap with the hex screw that screws into the star nut? I want one that better matches the scheme.

Thanks

smd4

Danny. I call him Danny.

maddog34

"1 1/8" Top Cap"

aaronM46

Not happy with the non-suspension forks. I want suspension forks but I am not sure how to choose them or find them. Nobody wants to help.

Fork selection questions....

I am frustrated with almost everyone here and I am about to just quit. I thought I had a good idea but everyone here thinks if you don't buy the most expensive components or listen to them then you are stupid. My feelings about people have changed.

aaronM46

Yep, I am done.

This was a success. I will not be posting to this post again due to there being too many angry jerks that can't see beyond their insecurities. There is not much help to be had on these forums without having to sift through posts made by people that are unable to accept that they aren't right.

For those that read this, you don't need a 9-million-dollar bike to do what you want. These monkeys that overpaid for their hobby may think so and try to get you to follow them so that you have the most expensive things available are absolutely dumb. Not stupid. DUMB.

If you are at the absolute extreme of your hobby then possibly those components will make a difference.

In my findings, some of the cheap components I purchased fell short. Some were great. I will be buying better components based on my findings but I will never listen to aholes. Don't listen to the Compgliagiaionclitoris crowd that has bashed me and offered NO actual advice. Do your own thing.

EDIT: An example of the Compgliagiaionclitoris crowd here. In the for sale section you cannot discern what is what because all of the aholes using fancy names for their parts. Why don't you morons just say title the parts before you post them? Because you think everyone here knows what a Compgliagiaionclitoris xyz means. That is why. You will never pull in mainstream people because of your elitism.

You could just post "Bike frame - Compgliagiaionclitoris" instead of "Qsedfsdfsaedfg yghbansdbnasd".

maddog34

1.. measure the steering Tube on the stock fork.
2... look for a used Marzocchi Bomber fork or Rock Shox Air fork on Craigslist or Ebay or where-ever... make certain it's within about 1/2" or so as long as your stock fork. ( i've found some great deals on Rock Shox SID forks too!)
3... don't get greedy with the fork TRAVEL since you only need about 80 to 100 mm travel unless you want to jump off cliffs...
slap that sucker in the frame.. i know you can do it.
4... ignore the trolls

(you could try a Bolani fork.. all over Ebay and Amazone... they had some seal issues but i've heard that got sorted out... low cost air forks... a 29" will work since 29" and 700c wheels are the same Bead diameter....)

5... Put phat CX tires on and go slam some drops. keep yer butt back and your knees bent !

example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/25604210143...Cclp%3A2047675

aaronM46

EDIT: I will stay around to offer advice because some of you that offer advice don't have a dang clue about mechanics or physics. I just won't reply to your ignorance.

aaronM46

Breaking my rule of silence for a non-ahole:

My rigid fork is a Bolany. I really like the quality. I have seen their air forks but I am skeptical. That is a lot more technology than a rigid fork. My issue is the offset. Mine is 37mm and I would have to go to 42mm. I don't know what that would do in terms of handling. I have gone so deep and stupid on this bike I might as well get a RockShox.

I am seriously thinking about buying a frame and swapping it all over. As much as I can anyway. I have no idea how to buy a frame though.

tFUnK

Well the issue is you seem to not know what you want in a bike and you've not been open to input from others who have done this for years or even decades, so this has really just been an exercise in tinkering and there's nothing wrong with that.

It's your time and your money and that's the tuition you pay to learn how to do bike mechanics. I'm saying this not to disparage you but to relate to you - I've polished my share of turd in my time and even though when I look back at it objectively they were time and money sinks, the experiences also taught me how to work on and put together bikes (and incidentally, I've invested in the proper tools along the way to allow me to do my own mechanics to this day).

But as I've gotten older I realized that I no longer enjoy working on bikes just to work on bikes; I'd rather just have something to ride without thinking about it. The exception being when there's an opportunity to build up a unique frame to suit a particular need or use case (or for a certain aesthetic).

So I guess I would encourage you to focus on what you're trying to get out of this build and visualize what the end product will be, rather than just slapping random parts on there and hoping that it all works. There's a reason why people choose certain frames (for specific purposes) and while there's nothing wrong with the Schwinn per se, there's also nothing that makes it stand out and that's why many folks here feel like it's not a worthy frame to center your build around given the time and money investment that goes into a frame-up build.

Leisesturm

He doesn't have a wife. It takes quite a bit more effort to get a wife to leave.

shelbyfv

Well heck, thought this silliness was about played out. FWIW, despite our ignorance almost everyone here (with a couple of unfortunate exceptions) is enjoying riding actual bikes that work.

bboy314

Maybe changing your approach and attitude will yield more helpful replies.

Where in this thread has anyone suggested that you need to have high end components to have a good ride? For that matter where in the Sales section is anyone unclear about what they’re selling? I’ve barely even seen any Campagnolo for sale in there…

smd4

Where the hell did this come from? I don't care what parts you buy, and I'm not knowledgeable enough about new bikes to even know what kind of quality parts you bought.

smd4

Why--I mean, really think hard about this and tell us--why do you want to buy a new frame? Because people here ripped on the Schwinn a little? Or do you know exactly what type of riding you want to do, and exactly how you expect your bike to handle? Bike designers--who presumably have some experience with physics and bike mechanics--spend careers intelligently designing bikes from the ground up with specific frame materials and components that support the type of bike they're designing, and the price point they're going after. I assure you--their designs aren't random collections of frames and parts.

When I got my first frame, I had to do a ton of research on frame weights, tubing manufacturers, frame angles, frame sizes, quality of frame manufacturers, frame features such as what braze-ons I wanted; even down to color choices. Back then, there was no Internet, so I read tons of books from the library and got a bunch of magazines.

It does sound like you jumped in with both feet with admittedly little knowledge of cycling. I mean--you said it above: You don't have any idea how to buy a frame. How exactly would you go about actually buying a frame without the knowledge of how to do it? And why would you want to do that? Obviously, you have to have some idea of what you want before you try searching.

smd4

Since you still need a new fork, maybe not completely. Yet.

Pot...meet kettle.

So...you're smart enough about cycling--despite your comments to the contrary-- to tell some of us what we "need?" Good to know!

Well, I don't know if I "overpaid." All I can say is I've had pretty good luck using top-end frames and parts. Everything always worked on the FIRST TRY.

Calling specialized parts by their proper names is definitely not "elitism." Bike parts have names. While "gear-changer thingy" might be more descriptive, the correct term is "derailleur." Fancy-schmancy French spelling and all. "Chainring" is the proper term...not "small front sawblade."

I'd love to see some real examples of this, and not made-up names. And BTW, the names of bicycle components aren't really "fancy." They're just...what the parts are called. Educate yourself, ask questions instead of dictating, and you'll be able to follow along too. All hobbies and specialized activities have their own jargon or terms. Come out to the railroad where I volunteer and I can confuse you with "eccentric strap" or "pilot beam" or "smokebox dog." but stay long enough, and you'll get it.