AXIS 2.0 Rear Wheel Upgrade Recommendations, Please.
#27
Senior Member
A couple things.
All wheels have the same comfort. Unless they are broken, or poorly built/grossly undertensioned. Then they'll flex. And MIGHT be more comfortable, up until the point they taco and you collapse in a ditch with a broken leg. Which is definitely LESS comfortable.
Tires/tire pressure is by and large the greatest determiner of comfort. Not the wheels, not the frame, not the bar tape/seatpost. Dropping PSI by 5-10 pounds easily cancels out the maximum cumulative impact of all other possible changes you could make. Aside from replacing your frame with a full suspension mountain bike frame I suppose.
So that being said...if the main concern is comfort, and getting back on the road without spending a ton...just replace your rim. As someone mentioned before, if you get a replica of the rim that cracked, you can keep your existing hub and spokes, and just build in the new rim. If you're willing to take a stab at it on your own, all you need is a $10 spoke wrench and a dab or two of grease. Or many shops will do the work for you for $50 or so.
All wheels have the same comfort. Unless they are broken, or poorly built/grossly undertensioned. Then they'll flex. And MIGHT be more comfortable, up until the point they taco and you collapse in a ditch with a broken leg. Which is definitely LESS comfortable.
Tires/tire pressure is by and large the greatest determiner of comfort. Not the wheels, not the frame, not the bar tape/seatpost. Dropping PSI by 5-10 pounds easily cancels out the maximum cumulative impact of all other possible changes you could make. Aside from replacing your frame with a full suspension mountain bike frame I suppose.
So that being said...if the main concern is comfort, and getting back on the road without spending a ton...just replace your rim. As someone mentioned before, if you get a replica of the rim that cracked, you can keep your existing hub and spokes, and just build in the new rim. If you're willing to take a stab at it on your own, all you need is a $10 spoke wrench and a dab or two of grease. Or many shops will do the work for you for $50 or so.
#28
Junior Member
If rollingresistance.com is to be believed, you achieve some rolling resistance benefit over comparable clincher with a standard tube, but I could achive the same result using latex tubes. The main benefit to me, aside from savings from not having to buy latex tubes, is ride quality. I ride at significantLy lower pressure on tubeless because I have no worries about pinch flats, which makes for a more plush ride.
Whether you go tubeless or not, go with a wider rim than standard road rims... >17mm internal width .. they are more aero and you will achieve rolling resistance benefit.
Whether you go tubeless or not, go with a wider rim than standard road rims... >17mm internal width .. they are more aero and you will achieve rolling resistance benefit.
A couple things.
All wheels have the same comfort. Unless they are broken, or poorly built/grossly undertensioned. Then they'll flex. And MIGHT be more comfortable, up until the point they taco and you collapse in a ditch with a broken leg. Which is definitely LESS comfortable.
Tires/tire pressure is by and large the greatest determiner of comfort. Not the wheels, not the frame, not the bar tape/seatpost. Dropping PSI by 5-10 pounds easily cancels out the maximum cumulative impact of all other possible changes you could make. Aside from replacing your frame with a full suspension mountain bike frame I suppose.
So that being said...if the main concern is comfort, and getting back on the road without spending a ton...just replace your rim. As someone mentioned before, if you get a replica of the rim that cracked, you can keep your existing hub and spokes, and just build in the new rim. If you're willing to take a stab at it on your own, all you need is a $10 spoke wrench and a dab or two of grease. Or many shops will do the work for you for $50 or so.
All wheels have the same comfort. Unless they are broken, or poorly built/grossly undertensioned. Then they'll flex. And MIGHT be more comfortable, up until the point they taco and you collapse in a ditch with a broken leg. Which is definitely LESS comfortable.
Tires/tire pressure is by and large the greatest determiner of comfort. Not the wheels, not the frame, not the bar tape/seatpost. Dropping PSI by 5-10 pounds easily cancels out the maximum cumulative impact of all other possible changes you could make. Aside from replacing your frame with a full suspension mountain bike frame I suppose.
So that being said...if the main concern is comfort, and getting back on the road without spending a ton...just replace your rim. As someone mentioned before, if you get a replica of the rim that cracked, you can keep your existing hub and spokes, and just build in the new rim. If you're willing to take a stab at it on your own, all you need is a $10 spoke wrench and a dab or two of grease. Or many shops will do the work for you for $50 or so.
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FlaMike
Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
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01-05-10 02:55 PM