cheap tires vs expensive tires
#26
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If you're just cruising around on your Walmart Huffy, it probably won't show up on your radar.
Your initial post kind of ignores how much effort you need to put into the pedals to get those wheels to go around just as fast with the cheap tyres. But they probably give you more exercise at a given speed and distance, if that's important to you.
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#29
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It should be pointed out that you don't need to be 'racing' to be concerned with speed. The difference between expensive fast tires vs cheaper slow tires might mean keeping up with your friends or not. Again, if you're riding by yourself on a MUP at 10 mph, it won't matter.
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Your speed is determined by how hard you pedal.
So, say a fairly hard sustained effort for an amateur cyclist will be about 200 watts.
That 200 watts then gets divided up into a number of things.
- Wind resistance
- Parasitic resistance of clothing.
- System friction (bearings, chain, etc).
- Rolling Resistance.
- Acceleration, or climbing a hill
Now, say you have two tires that at your 200 watt effort give you either 10 watts rolling resistance, or 50 watts rolling resistance.
So, keeping your power fixed at 200w, then with one set of tires you have 190w to put towards wind resistance and etc. And with the other set you only have 150w... and thus go slower.
Now, it doesn't mean that a cyclist can't ride the same speed on the two different sets of tires, but the one on the high rolling resistance tires has to put in a substantial greater effort to achieve the same speed.
And, if one is going by maximum effort, or maximum effort over time (endurance), then the low rolling resistance tire wins out.
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Despite what some people say, I'm a fan of my Gator Hardshells (700x23 or 700x25).
Going with Kenda tires, maybe 700x35... they just feel really different... and feel slower, whether they actually are that different.
I suppose sometime I'll get some super low rolling resistance tubulars on aero wheels, and see how it works out.
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Love my Gators. Yes the ride is not cushy but I don't have flats from our terrible streets every other ride.
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My Continental GP5Ks I replaced the original Bontrager tires that were on my Trek with are a leaps and bounds improvement IMHO. The $17 Michelin Dynamic Classics I put on the 38 year old Raleigh I recently rehabbed are good enough for the rides I do on it. I misread the OP thinking they had a general curiosity about the varying cost of tires. Perhaps they only wanted to know if the cheap tires were good enough.
As an aside, I predict this post to make 7 pages as a tire argument is going to be a welcome change from chain lube arguments.
As an aside, I predict this post to make 7 pages as a tire argument is going to be a welcome change from chain lube arguments.
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"It is the unknown around the corner that turns my wheels." -- Heinz Stücke
"It is the unknown around the corner that turns my wheels." -- Heinz Stücke
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You don't learn anything new by listening only to what you wanted to hear.
There is actually quite a wide variation in rolling resistance between tyres of the same nominal size. Both compound and construction affect rolling resistance. Basically, lighter, more supple tyres are faster. The difference can be quite significant if speed is actually important to you. But there are also a lot of other factors to consider when choosing tyres i.e. braking and cornering grip (wet and dry), comfort, durability and puncture resistance. Personally I don't skimp on tyres as they are ultimately the only thing between you and the hard, unforgiving road. So I buy the best tyres for my needs (not necessarily the fastest rolling).
There is actually quite a wide variation in rolling resistance between tyres of the same nominal size. Both compound and construction affect rolling resistance. Basically, lighter, more supple tyres are faster. The difference can be quite significant if speed is actually important to you. But there are also a lot of other factors to consider when choosing tyres i.e. braking and cornering grip (wet and dry), comfort, durability and puncture resistance. Personally I don't skimp on tyres as they are ultimately the only thing between you and the hard, unforgiving road. So I buy the best tyres for my needs (not necessarily the fastest rolling).
My supplest tires cost $72 each, and while I think they do offer relatively low rolling resistance, that suppleness brings other benefits: they provide a smoother ride, great grip, and after >4000 miles I have never found tubeless sealant on my frame after a ride, which leads me to believe that they are rather puncture resistant. I've spent more than half as much on tires that gave me less than half the mileage and didn't ride very well anyway.
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The Conti tires have noticeably less rolling resistance. According to https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/ they are 20 watts less rolling resistance for the pair. Over the course of an 8 hour day that is very significant.
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This.
My supplest tires cost $72 each, and while I think they do offer relatively low rolling resistance, that suppleness brings other benefits: they provide a smoother ride, great grip, and after >4000 miles I have never found tubeless sealant on my frame after a ride, which leads me to believe that they are rather puncture resistant. I've spent more than half as much on tires that gave me less than half the mileage and didn't ride very well anyway.
My supplest tires cost $72 each, and while I think they do offer relatively low rolling resistance, that suppleness brings other benefits: they provide a smoother ride, great grip, and after >4000 miles I have never found tubeless sealant on my frame after a ride, which leads me to believe that they are rather puncture resistant. I've spent more than half as much on tires that gave me less than half the mileage and didn't ride very well anyway.
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#37
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A tire deforms as it rolls. Generally speaking, it takes less energy to deform a thinner tire, so it rolls more efficiently. Fancy secret sauce compounds can also make the tire deform with less energy.
I think making thin tires is more expensive because tighter tolerances and increased QA is required.
I think making thin tires is more expensive because tighter tolerances and increased QA is required.
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#38
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This tire:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Goodyear-...lack/516359822
...is nearly three times the weight of this tire (35c):
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/prod...avel-700c-tire
You don't have to be a racer to feel the difference. You can be a wheezing geezer, a tired old Fred, and feel the difference keenly, in my direct experience!
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Goodyear-...lack/516359822
...is nearly three times the weight of this tire (35c):
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/prod...avel-700c-tire
You don't have to be a racer to feel the difference. You can be a wheezing geezer, a tired old Fred, and feel the difference keenly, in my direct experience!
#39
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There will be exceptions such as a good performing tire that's still cheap or a really pricy tire that doesn't perform that great, but in general, you get what you pay for. Tires are optimized for many things, such as wear durability (usually a function of tread thickness but rubber compound also matters), puncture resistance (trade-off with speed and weight), sidewall suppleness (tpi and composition), speed (usually a function of rubber compound and sidewall suppleness), light weight (usually less durable), performance in wet, performance in dirt, etc. If we're just talking road slicks, the tread pattern is less important but all the other dimensions still apply. And that is how a more expensive tire may perform better than a cheaper tire.
It's all about tradeoffs and that's why we have so many threads about "what's the best tire". A fast racing tire will be supple and lightweight and grippy, but don't last as many miles and may be more prone to punctures. A training tire will be slightly heavier and perhaps more puncture resistant but less supple and less grippy. A commuter tire will be heavy and slow and not as supple but provide good wear and puncture protection.
It's all about tradeoffs and that's why we have so many threads about "what's the best tire". A fast racing tire will be supple and lightweight and grippy, but don't last as many miles and may be more prone to punctures. A training tire will be slightly heavier and perhaps more puncture resistant but less supple and less grippy. A commuter tire will be heavy and slow and not as supple but provide good wear and puncture protection.
Last edited by tFUnK; 03-06-22 at 06:38 AM.
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#40
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I put a set of 28c Schwalbe Marathons on my bike almost exactly a year ago. I've ridden them nearly 10000km, and in that time I've had exactly one flat. That alone is worth the extra price of the tires. They don't roll badly at all, either.
The rear is starting to wear out, so I'll be replacing the 28c version with a 38c version in the next month or two.
The rear is starting to wear out, so I'll be replacing the 28c version with a 38c version in the next month or two.
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#41
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I had an inexpensive (not super cheap) tires on my road bike. Decided to upgrade to some better tires. Same size, same bike, same route. The difference in comfort was noticeable. And was able to cut time off the route, not trying extra hard, just a casual ride on a route I like and ride often. Definitely made a difference! Didn't name the tire brands, won't start an argument on what tires are good-better-best. But yes-better tires will make a notable difference-in many ways.
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The price of bike tires is insane right now....3 years ago I purchased a pair of WTB Riddler gravel tires 700 x 45 mm size for $ 65 dollars per tire...Just yesterday I was at the same store where I bought these tires and now they cost $ 95 dollars per tire.
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#45
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If you only ride your bike for short and/or leisurely riding, then it probably should make no difference whatsoever.
If you like measuring yourself against the clock and other data while riding, then you might want tires with less rolling resistance which are typically the higher dollar tire.
Just because we are here on BF doesn't mean we have the same goals and preferences in our riding.
If you like measuring yourself against the clock and other data while riding, then you might want tires with less rolling resistance which are typically the higher dollar tire.
Just because we are here on BF doesn't mean we have the same goals and preferences in our riding.
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#46
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Chain lube?
My Continental GP5Ks I replaced the original Bontrager tires that were on my Trek with are a leaps and bounds improvement IMHO. The $17 Michelin Dynamic Classics I put on the 38 year old Raleigh I recently rehabbed are good enough for the rides I do on it. I misread the OP thinking they had a general curiosity about the varying cost of tires. Perhaps they only wanted to know if the cheap tires were good enough.
As an aside, I predict this post to make 7 pages as a tire argument is going to be a welcome change from chain lube arguments.
As an aside, I predict this post to make 7 pages as a tire argument is going to be a welcome change from chain lube arguments.
#47
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I can offer an anecdote. For what it is worth, a few years ago my friend and I started down a hill. We were both riding similar bikes, and identical wheels. However, I was riding on supple road tubeless tires and he was riding puncture resistant tires. He outweighed me by almost 20 pounds. We started the hill side by side at the same speed both sitting in about the same position on our bikes. One might think that the heavier rider would descend faster but I was about 50 meters ahead of him at the bottom of the 600 meter long hill.
Tires matter
Tires matter
Dan
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Are we having some sort of "font-off" now?
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The effective frontal area (which determines wind drag at a given speed) scales less than linearly with mass, so it scales less than the corresponding gravitational force at a given mass. That is why heavier riders tend to go faster downhill.
Otto
Otto
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