Find of a lifetime?!?! I could REALLY use help from the experts
#26
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PC removal experiments
Is the steerer tube PC'd? Practise removing PC there. The serial number looks very accessible. Use sandpaper to sharpen the details by sanding down the PC swamping it. If you decide to keep the PC just paint over your sanded spot with matching paint.
If the bike is what it is heralded to be and you decide to remove the PC make sure those helping you understand you weren't responsible for PCing a piece of American heritage. Some of those who take old bikes way too seriously might be irritated at whoever committed such a sin.
If the bike is what it is heralded to be and you decide to remove the PC make sure those helping you understand you weren't responsible for PCing a piece of American heritage. Some of those who take old bikes way too seriously might be irritated at whoever committed such a sin.
Last edited by Johno59; 05-05-21 at 04:28 AM.
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#28
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Serial number
It was confirmed. The serial number is B487.
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Errrh......are you quite certain that is PC? Is that anti-rust coat, primer and final coat of three types of paint around your serial number?
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Great find. I'd love to find a vintage track bike, not too old, but old enough to be C&V.
So what are your plans for it? Are you wanting to ride it? Will it be a wall-hanger?
I hope you are able to find a head badge for it. That is something that I would think might be scarce. Or did the previous owner keep it an just not put it on?
So what are your plans for it? Are you wanting to ride it? Will it be a wall-hanger?
I hope you are able to find a head badge for it. That is something that I would think might be scarce. Or did the previous owner keep it an just not put it on?
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Yep, that looks like paint.
It's unfortunate that it is a metallic color - it looks nice, but the metalflake does stand out as something from a later era.
If you want to enjoy it as is, it'd still look nice with some repop period decals added to it before investing in a whole respray.
-Kurt
It's unfortunate that it is a metallic color - it looks nice, but the metalflake does stand out as something from a later era.
If you want to enjoy it as is, it'd still look nice with some repop period decals added to it before investing in a whole respray.
-Kurt
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Yep, that looks like paint.
It's unfortunate that it is a metallic color - it looks nice, but the metalflake does stand out as something from a later era.
If you want to enjoy it as is, it'd still look nice with some repop period decals added to it before investing in a whole respray.
-Kurt
It's unfortunate that it is a metallic color - it looks nice, but the metalflake does stand out as something from a later era.
If you want to enjoy it as is, it'd still look nice with some repop period decals added to it before investing in a whole respray.
-Kurt
For now I’m not going to mess with it. I’ll build it up again with what it came with and enjoy riding it. It is my size after all.
Perhaps in the future I might have it repainted and put on decals by Waterford.
Last edited by b dub; 05-05-21 at 08:09 AM.
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#33
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That's a good result..The bike has been rustproofed! Happy days. Get some spray and proof the inside as well. Folks on here can advise you on that. You can do it yourself. Buy the correct decals and stick them on. It's a track bike so the flamboyant color is not too OTT.
Wow, you just saved yourself a thousand dollars as well as saving the frame.
Wow, you just saved yourself a thousand dollars as well as saving the frame.
Last edited by Johno59; 05-05-21 at 09:02 AM.
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Now I feel silly. I’m not an expert on paint. The previous owner had it re-painted by a car body shop up the street.
For now I’m not going to mess with it. I’ll build it up again with what it came with and enjoy riding it. It is my size after all.
Perhaps in the future I might have it repainted and put on decals by Waterford.
For now I’m not going to mess with it. I’ll build it up again with what it came with and enjoy riding it. It is my size after all.
Perhaps in the future I might have it repainted and put on decals by Waterford.
-Kurt
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#35
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Looks like a late 38 or 39 Superior by serial number
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And furthermore you can paint on paint, maybe some socks and a seat post band of more sober colors will bring the bling factor down. Great result.
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cool bike. worthwhile to put some clear coat on where you sanded to keep the rust away
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Clear coat will not stop rust. Moisture passes thru clear coat.You have to paint it first. Get some touch up paint and brush it on then clear coat it.
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Great find. I'd love to find a vintage track bike, not too old, but old enough to be C&V.
So what are your plans for it? Are you wanting to ride it? Will it be a wall-hanger?
I hope you are able to find a head badge for it. That is something that I would think might be scarce. Or did the previous owner keep it an just not put it on?
So what are your plans for it? Are you wanting to ride it? Will it be a wall-hanger?
I hope you are able to find a head badge for it. That is something that I would think might be scarce. Or did the previous owner keep it an just not put it on?
Phase 1: clean and grease it up so it’s ready for riding
Phase 2: possibly gather more period correct components (actually probably not)
Phase 3: strip down the frame and have it repainted + decals (we’ll see when that happens)
I doubt I will ever find a correct head badge. So a reproduction decal might have to do.
One thing: as in above picture the badge is screwed on but I can’t find screw holes inside out in the head tube.
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I might be able to help with one from the late '40s early '50s. I need to go to the storage locker which might not happen until the weekend.
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Questions:
1. Is there a current place on the web to report the serial number for reference?
2. Based on this picture of the bottom bracket can any of you determine if any of the layers show the previous finish/color? Is it a lighter blue, or soft yellow?
3. Is it safe to ride it with the slightly bent seat stay? (How) should it be corrected? I don’t want to risk anything.
1. Is there a current place on the web to report the serial number for reference?
2. Based on this picture of the bottom bracket can any of you determine if any of the layers show the previous finish/color? Is it a lighter blue, or soft yellow?
3. Is it safe to ride it with the slightly bent seat stay? (How) should it be corrected? I don’t want to risk anything.
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@b_dub
As thorough and thick as that paint is, they may have been well filled in and very hard to see.
And while this paint is very thick, I would put up with it as long as possible, normally there would be a lot more ugly to go with it, it looks pretty darn good for how thick it is.
As thorough and thick as that paint is, they may have been well filled in and very hard to see.
And while this paint is very thick, I would put up with it as long as possible, normally there would be a lot more ugly to go with it, it looks pretty darn good for how thick it is.
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Agreed, which is why for now I’m leaving it be (phase 1).
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Stripped naked
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I find it amazing that I don’t need any special tools. Apparently not much has changed since the late 30s.
These must be original.
but the cotter pins are not.
These must be original.
but the cotter pins are not.
Last edited by b dub; 05-05-21 at 05:53 PM.
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Maybe on the holes, you never know, with all the work that went into the paint, the holes may have received the same and be very hard to tell, a tiny mirror and flashlight or right angle inspection scope may be what it takes to see good enough. Those parts should be original and I am going to PM you.
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#49
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Oh I was asked about the wheel set.
From the previous owner I know that the tubulars were replaced by clinchers.
27” x 1 1/4, 36 spokes, front/back
- front: small flange Atom hub, rim Kaga
- rear: large flange Normandy hub, Weinmann rim, 18t fixed, can’t find make
From the previous owner I know that the tubulars were replaced by clinchers.
27” x 1 1/4, 36 spokes, front/back
- front: small flange Atom hub, rim Kaga
- rear: large flange Normandy hub, Weinmann rim, 18t fixed, can’t find make
Last edited by b dub; 05-05-21 at 07:07 PM.
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