30 miles for a 1st FG ride? Yep, a bit over ambitious.

Position is extremely critical riding FG and adaptation takes seat time, not a large dose all at once.
Be very careful in setting seat height, cleat to pedal axle (you are using proper foot retention ?) and gearing.
If you are comfortable w/ the SS/FW gearing match it exactly in FG, that which works, works.
Standing to stretch, and get over hills, is normal but the coasting part is out.

Leave both brakes in place should you need to slow downhill cadence to prevent hamster-in-wheel syndrome and get out away from traffic for 5-10 mile adaptation rides.
Riding FG is not for everyone, but give it a fair trial over a period of weeks.

-Bandera

I'll be 64 in two days. Can I be an associate member? I'll get older some day; I promise.

Good advice. Thought I might have bitten off too big a chunk. I'm using Speedplay X2 pedals, so that part is good. Since I'm still sorting out the gearing with SS, your suggestion to establish that first and get used to it before trying again sounds very rational. The lack of extended stretching may be the deal breaker, but I really like the idea of fixed gear simplicity.

Was that the cosmic rumble of yet another bike being planned, dedicated to fixed gear........?

With modern inexpensive flip-flop hubs having provision for both a FG w/ a proper track style lockring and a SS/FW on the opposite side one bike will do double duty as required, unless N*+1 is required.

-Bandera

Stretch before you ride. Better yet, stretch whether you ride or not.

Ashtanga Yoga

(Not 65, but hey.)

Listen to Bandera, Grasshopper

Last year I did the Beaumont, TX Spindletop Spin century on the fixed gear. Averaged 17 and felt pretty good finishing but it took at least a month to recover. Doing it again this coming Saturday but not only older but wiser I will do the 60 mile course. It is totally flat but, hot, extremely humid and gets windy-headwind the long stretch home. If I can get in with a good group it shouldn't be too difficult. Rode 43 with a small intermediate level group of social riders today did a lot of work and felt good. Should be more fun than last years "death ride"

Age 66.5. Weight 224 lbs. Height 5-9.5.
Plan to build a single-speed bike from the ground up.
Please tell me what I should change in this configuration. You don't have to be nice.
Thanks.

Frame - Pake French 75, 59 cm, black
Headset - Cane Creek 40.IS41 Short Cover, black
Front Hub - Miche Pista/Strada, Black, 36 holes
Spokes - DT Swiss Competition DB 2/1.8/2 mm, Black w/ 12mm nipple
Rear Hub - Miche Pista/Strada, Black, 36 holes
Tube - Kenda 700c x 28 32mm Threaded Presta
Valve Cap - Red, Al
Tire - Continental Gatorskin 700C x 28, black
Rim Tape - Velox - Fond de Jante, 19 mm
Rim - Mavic A 719, 700C, 36‑hole, black
Bottom Bracket - Miche Primato Track Bottom Bracket 68 X 107 English
Crank - Miche PRIMATO ADVANCED PISTA CRANK SET, 170 mm, 52t, black
Pedals - Shimano A530
Chain - 3/32”
Free wheel - White Industries ENO 20t
Seat Post - Miche Supertype Black Seat Post 27.2 mm, black
Clamp - Miche Racing Clamp, black
Saddle - Brooks England Men's Cambium C17 Carved
Stem - Richey Road Adjustable Stem 31.8 clamp x 100mm
Handlebars - Cinelli Mash Bullhorn Road Handlebar - 40cm, black, 31.8mm oversized clamping area
Bar Tape - Cinelli
Brake - Front/Rear - Cane Creek SL DUAL PIVOT CALIPER BRAKES, black
Brake Levers - Cane Creek CrossTop Lever 31.8MM - Black

Welcome [MENTION=387087]davebarnes[/MENTION] to this thread. It's nice to have a new member. Your build appears to be thorougly thought out with top quality components. Please posts pics as soon as it's completed.

Not quite old enough for this thread (I'll turn 64 in September), but I've probably been riding track bikes longer than most, starting with a Helyett Speciale Tour de France (!) track bike in 1964. Reynolds 531 throughout, all French components. Rode it unsuccessfully in the U.S. Track Nationals at Kissena Park in Queens, New York, that same year. All the kids from Chicago made fun of my 10-ounce Dunlop tubulars. They all had orange Clement Seta tires. Fair enough; I was there only because I was the only Intermediate-age kid in Connecticut with a track bike, probably.

The best-riding track bike I've owned was my 1982 Bianchi Eco Pista. Still own three, an all-531 1968-ish Peugeot with a French Campy Record group, a Specialized Langster from the first year of production, and a Felt TK2.

Plenty of stretching skeptics on Bike Forums and elsewhere, thanks in part to a number of studies showing that there's more potential downside and less upside than had been previously suspected. I've never stretched, and never felt the need to, maybe because cycling itself involves benign moderate stretching within safe limits.

I've got 34 more months to go, but I'll get there. And if all goes well, I will roll my engine's odometer for the second time and my fix gears' for the first. I should still have my two current fix gears then, my '83 Trek 420 winter/rain/city bike with its fenders, Lowrider, lock and miles of reflecting tape and my good ti fix gear, the most fun bike I have ever owned.

I want to join your club if I can manage to stay alive. Wish me well.

Ben

Did the 52 mile course and it was a lot more "fun" than the 96 mile course I did last year. No more Summer Centuries!

Nice!

Except that doesn't help people with

1) tight hamstrings and quads
2) rounded lower back because of 1)
3) bulging L5-S1 disk because of 2)
4) acute pain because of 3)
5) no cycling because of 4)

For that litany of ailments, stretching might indeed be crucial---under expert medical supervision, I hope.

Yep. Or some kind of supervision, since most in the medical profession will prescribe surgery over any kind of therapeutic approach.

Anyways, I'd say that a cyclist can benefit by ensuring sufficient hip mobility in order to prevent the rounded back from developing into the bulging disk. Call me crazy if you like.

I have a 20mi loop that I've been riding for years FG and I have a log of times.
This AM I shifted the CF Merckx into the 70GI I ride fixed and set off to simulate a FG ride (yes, I get bored).

Despite 33 years of technical progress hindered by derailleur gimcracks hung uselessly for today's simulation my time was exactly in line w/ a 10 ride FG average.
Proving nothing except it's difficult to be 100% concentrated on keeping the cranks going w/ a FW in place and I am easily amused.



-Bandera

Here's my fixie. I splurged a few years ago on a Wabi steel bike.







When I got my first road bike in 1961, I doubt I thought I'd still be interested in, much less capable of cycling when I'd be 67. I am, though. My mileage has dropped off the past couple of years, but I still love riding my bikes (road, mountain, carbon, alu, and steel), none more so than my fixie. I don't often see older fixed gear/ss riders in Los Angeles, at least in the areas I ride (from downtown to Santa Monica and Malibu) but I know they're here.

Being more than three decades away from qualifying myself for posting in this thread, I just wanted to say that lugged Wabi Special looks great. Kind of kicking myself a little bit for going with the TIG'd Classic instead.

Got to brag somewhere Saturday I did the Piney Woods Purgatory in Lufkin, TX. 70 miles, 3,100' of elevation. Only three or four hard climbs but the rollers and short climbs never stopped-all up or down. Used 70". Averaged 15.5 with no drafting 'cause the geared riders kept dropping me on the steep downhills. Around 130 rpms and I scrub speed with the brakes. If I do it next year think I will ride a SS 70". Think I can tuck and keep up better on the downhills, but the climbs may be a bit harder.

I'm impressed.

If you know this frame size works for you, then great. But it sounds a bit large, based on your height. I'm a 5'11" man and I do best on a 57cm frame.

The plastic caps that come on Presta tubes are pointless. Spending money to replace them with aluminum ones is silly.

The tires you've selected are excellent, and they should go nicely on the A719 rims (also a great choice).

I hope you'll use the adjustable stem to pin down exactly what angle and height you need, and then replace it with a much more elegant one. Otherwise, you'll have a bike that is so smooth and tidy looking... except for that hideous stem.

Edit: I just noticed the post I replied to was over a year old. Maybe he's still considering this build?

Seems like I should be posting this here.

https://m.imgur.com/a/cyWA6

Looks good