Chainring Nut Wrench for stock Kilo TT Stripper Crank?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Chainring Nut Wrench for stock Kilo TT Stripper Crank?
Got a new chainring. Did not realize I need a special tool to take the old one off and put the new one on. Can anyone recommend a chainring nut wrench that will work with a stock Kilo TT Stripper's crank bolts? Will this guy get the job done?:
Amazon.com : Park Tool bike tools CNW-2 Chainring Nut Wrench : Sports & Outdoors
I've read some conflicting reviews which is why I ask..
Thanks.
Amazon.com : Park Tool bike tools CNW-2 Chainring Nut Wrench : Sports & Outdoors
I've read some conflicting reviews which is why I ask..
Thanks.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
And yeah, I just read one guy say he had this very same tool and couldn't get two of the 5 bolts off of his Kilo TT crank with it no matter how hard he tried. He ended up taking it to his LBS to finish the job. Whatever though, I'm sure it will get the job done just fine.
#5
Your cog is slipping.
#6
Veteran Racer
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,760
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1337 Post(s)
Liked 766 Times
in
432 Posts
Cool, will buy.
And yeah, I just read one guy say he had this very same tool and couldn't get two of the 5 bolts off of his Kilo TT crank with it no matter how hard he tried. He ended up taking it to his LBS to finish the job. Whatever though, I'm sure it will get the job done just fine.
And yeah, I just read one guy say he had this very same tool and couldn't get two of the 5 bolts off of his Kilo TT crank with it no matter how hard he tried. He ended up taking it to his LBS to finish the job. Whatever though, I'm sure it will get the job done just fine.
#7
Lapped 3x
Get knurled chainring bolts, or dual hex/torx. Knurled is more convenient. You can also glue/epoxy the backs into the rear of the crank.
#8
Veteran Racer
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,760
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1337 Post(s)
Liked 766 Times
in
432 Posts
Knurled only works with real track crank arms that have counterbores for the nuts on the rear of the spider. Otherwise, the knurled sides of the nuts sit outside the spider and do nothing to keep them from spinning when the bolts are tightened or loosened.
#9
The Viceroy
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NSB,Florida
Posts: 298
Bikes: SE PK Ripper FG,Trek Classic Steel, Free Spirit FG, Raleigh Pointe, Centurion Sport DLX, Schwinn CrissCross
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Do people actually own those silly things? I have yet to encounter a bolt I couldn't hold in place by hand and get loose. Not that I work in a shop and encounter the mess some people may bring in for fixing, but I do fix up the occasional neglected entry level bike I find in the trash for a quick flip on cash. I've used nothing more then a hex key, my hands, and maybe some 50/50 mix of acetone & transmission fluid to break rust to get them off.
Last edited by ThimbleSmash; 10-08-15 at 10:08 PM.
#10
Your cog is slipping.
I've encountered a good number of chainring bolts that couldn't be removed and had to be drilled.
At the shop, I use a VAR chainring bolt tool because I build and work on bikes for a living. Most people probably don't want to spend a hundred bucks or so on something they'll only use a couple of times.
At the shop, I use a VAR chainring bolt tool because I build and work on bikes for a living. Most people probably don't want to spend a hundred bucks or so on something they'll only use a couple of times.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: SD
Posts: 2,745
Bikes: Handsome Fredward, Trek 1.1
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 481 Post(s)
Liked 131 Times
in
47 Posts
I've encountered a good number of chainring bolts that couldn't be removed and had to be drilled.
At the shop, I use a VAR chainring bolt tool because I build and work on bikes for a living. Most people probably don't want to spend a hundred bucks or so on something they'll only use a couple of times.
At the shop, I use a VAR chainring bolt tool because I build and work on bikes for a living. Most people probably don't want to spend a hundred bucks or so on something they'll only use a couple of times.
Personally, I'd just get these awesome doo-dads
Set of 5 Chainring Bolts+Nuts for 1X ? wolftoothcomponents.com
4mm + 6mm allen keys. The way nature intended.
#12
Veteran Racer
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,760
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1337 Post(s)
Liked 766 Times
in
432 Posts
That thing is badass.
Personally, I'd just get these awesome doo-dads
Set of 5 Chainring Bolts+Nuts for 1X ? wolftoothcomponents.com
4mm + 6mm allen keys. The way nature intended.
Personally, I'd just get these awesome doo-dads
Set of 5 Chainring Bolts+Nuts for 1X ? wolftoothcomponents.com
4mm + 6mm allen keys. The way nature intended.
Also, if alloy is used for a threaded fastener, then it better use a Torx key rather than a hex wrench if you don't want it to strip out after a few removal/tightening cycles.
__________________
What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman
I see the light at the end of the tunnel, but the tunnel keeps getting longer - me
What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman
I see the light at the end of the tunnel, but the tunnel keeps getting longer - me
Last edited by TejanoTrackie; 10-09-15 at 02:30 PM.
#13
Fresh Garbage
This eludes the industry's brilliant engineers. They want to sell you light weight and torque wrenches.
#14
Veteran Racer
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,760
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1337 Post(s)
Liked 766 Times
in
432 Posts
Thing is, the weight savings are miniscule. Also, don't blame engineers for this, blame the marketting idiots.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 4,347
Bikes: Felt TK2, Felt Z5
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 943 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 20 Times
in
20 Posts
Do people actually own those silly things? I have yet to encounter a bolt I couldn't hold in place by hand and get loose. Not that I work in a shop and encounter the mess some people may bring in for fixing, but I do fix up the occasional neglected entry level bike I find in the trash for a quick flip on cash. I've used nothing more then a hex key, my hands, and maybe some 50/50 mix of acetone & transmission fluid to break rust to get them off.
#17
Pirate/Smuggler
The flipside of what Scrod says, if you're just gonna use it a couple times the Park tool that goes for three or four bucks works perfectly well.
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Anyway, ordered the Park Tool chainring wrench. Also ordered the Flying Wheels titanium silver chainring bolts and the Park Tool Y-design hex wrench to get my Amazon order up to $25 since the chainring wrench is an add-on item. Should be pretty sweet brahhhs.
#19
The Viceroy
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NSB,Florida
Posts: 298
Bikes: SE PK Ripper FG,Trek Classic Steel, Free Spirit FG, Raleigh Pointe, Centurion Sport DLX, Schwinn CrissCross
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I commute roughly 4K miles a year on one bike that has chrainring bolts that are merely tightened by hand. I do a full breakdown of the bike about every 6 months on the bike. Haven't lost a chainring bolt and there is no noticeable play in the chainring and have been riding it like so for 3 years. Maybe I don't ride as hard as you.
#20
Veteran Racer
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,760
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1337 Post(s)
Liked 766 Times
in
432 Posts
The OP is talking about holding the chainring nuts at the rear of the crankarm spider, so that the bolts at the front of the spider can be loosened. Yes, chainring bolts can often be tightened sufficiently w/o holding the nuts with a tool, but that is a totally different issue.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 4,347
Bikes: Felt TK2, Felt Z5
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 943 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 20 Times
in
20 Posts
I commute roughly 4K miles a year on one bike that has chrainring bolts that are merely tightened by hand. I do a full breakdown of the bike about every 6 months on the bike. Haven't lost a chainring bolt and there is no noticeable play in the chainring and have been riding it like so for 3 years. Maybe I don't ride as hard as you.
#22
Fresh Garbage
The tool is generally useless except for when nut & bolt are hard to remove or when you can't tighten the bolt because the nut is turning with it, in which case the parts probably need to be cleaned and lightly greased. I hardly ever use it and it usually does a poor job when I do.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: SD
Posts: 2,745
Bikes: Handsome Fredward, Trek 1.1
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 481 Post(s)
Liked 131 Times
in
47 Posts
The tool is generally useless except for when nut & bolt are hard to remove or when you can't tighten the bolt because the nut is turning with it, in which case the parts probably need to be cleaned and lightly greased. I hardly ever use it and it usually does a poor job when I do.
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: SD
Posts: 2,745
Bikes: Handsome Fredward, Trek 1.1
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 481 Post(s)
Liked 131 Times
in
47 Posts
I think for mere mortals they'd be fine. I understand what you're saying and agree, but I really don't think the alloy ones I linked to would disintegrate if used properly.
#25
Veteran Racer
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,760
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1337 Post(s)
Liked 766 Times
in
432 Posts
The ones you linked use a hex wrench to tighten/loosen and are likely to strip out over time. It has nothing to do with being a mere mortal. The Sugino 75 DD crankset I recently bought came with alloy bolts, but they sensibly use a T30 Torx driver to install and remove.