Progression to Fixed
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Capestang, France
Bikes: Lots of French, some British and a couple of Italian
Progression to Fixed
Hi all. I'm usually in the wings of the C&V forum, but thought I'd ask about this in here. I've been a SS mountain biker since the late 90s but never fixed. Until now. I've found a rather lovely 70s/80s fixed gear beast and was looking for some pointers. I think the first thing I'll have to do is put a spare fork on temporarily, as there's no drilling for a brake. Any tips for a novice fixed gear rider (who lives at the top of a hill)...


#2
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 493
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From: Chicago
Bikes: KHS Flite 100 Road Track Fissie Biek
Whew that is a nice bike. Not sure what the gearing is, but given that you live on a hill you might want to run something fairly spinny, perhaps between 65-75 GI, maybe lighter depending on how you think you can handle it. You'll certainly need the brake to start out, whether or not you end up keeping it is up to you, but I think the main thing you'll want to worry about fr now besides a new fork is gearing
#3
Veteran Racer


Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,854
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From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 80 wheels
That's a truly beautiful track bike.
Other than a front brake, you need to figure out your optimal gearing. I would recommend getting good foot retention with clipless pedals, which is very important when riding fixed.
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Last edited by TejanoTrackie; 12-21-15 at 12:30 PM.
#4
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 14,779
Likes: 743
From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Coasting is habitual and so it can't be stressed enough that you cannot coast. Your singular focus when when starting to pedal therefor, is to get your weight off the pedals and onto the seat. Start with your dominant foot, begin to pedal and sit immediately, before the pedal gets to the bottom of the stroke. If your weight is still on the pedal when it comes up it is going to lift your whole body and has the potential to launch you. Don't worry about your non-dominant foot but worry about sitting first, then worry about the other foot.
Buy spare brake pads. Feathering the brakes on the downhill wears out pads faster than on a road bike where you don't use the brakes as much.
@TejanoTracki is 100% correct about clipless pedals.
Last edited by TimothyH; 12-21-15 at 01:32 PM.
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,376
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From: Capestang, France
Bikes: Lots of French, some British and a couple of Italian
There are a few more photos here. andr0id, that's a pretty good plan. Then of course (at least on a singlespeed) add a little to compensate for the lighter weight machine? 
Living in France I have a bit of a thing going for French bikes. For this one, I'm selling a 1978 Nikon F3hp with 7 lenses and the hotshoe flash unit.. Can't have everything...
Living in France I have a bit of a thing going for French bikes. For this one, I'm selling a 1978 Nikon F3hp with 7 lenses and the hotshoe flash unit.. Can't have everything...
#10
Hey Milo,
Very nice machine. Glad you came over here to show it. Can't keep it all on C&V ya know.
Where I ride is pancake flat so no hill advice from me. I could only echo what others have said but won't.
You done good.
Very nice machine. Glad you came over here to show it. Can't keep it all on C&V ya know.
Where I ride is pancake flat so no hill advice from me. I could only echo what others have said but won't.
You done good.
#11
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,376
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From: Capestang, France
Bikes: Lots of French, some British and a couple of Italian
So here she is in all her glory. I tried to take more photos but the frame is such a statement of elegant simplicity, I would have been repeating myself!









#16
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 80 wheels
Probably Italian, which is 33.5mm x 24TPI.
#20
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Capestang, France
Bikes: Lots of French, some British and a couple of Italian
Well this is annoying. Nobody on line in France or the UK has any decent 19t Italian threaded cogs. All the EAI stockists I've found are out of stock. Might be a waiting game.
#21
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Joined: Oct 2012
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#23
Veteran Racer


Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 80 wheels
Italian hub threading is 1.378" x 24 TPi, which is close enough to English threading to be interchangeable. An English threaded cog will be a tighter fit, and may even remove a bit of hub thread, but is still safe.
#24
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2012
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Went through this shopping cogs myself back when I had to have a set of Campy track hubs - is close enough to not matter but if one wants to split hairs...
British standard is 1.370" x 24, ISO is 1.375" x 24, and Italian/Campag is 35mm which is 1.378"
So in other words MiloFrance - all are pretty much interchangeable
Good luck and have fun...
British standard is 1.370" x 24, ISO is 1.375" x 24, and Italian/Campag is 35mm which is 1.378"
So in other words MiloFrance - all are pretty much interchangeable
Good luck and have fun...
#25
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,376
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From: Capestang, France
Bikes: Lots of French, some British and a couple of Italian
My box of parts came so I got the beast out to see what I could do. Nothing was the answer as my whip didn't fit (1/8th"?). So I thought about it and having a LH thread with no lock ring must mean 1. he didn't use these wheels on it, or 2. he had a nice Phil on it that he wanted to keep. Either way, It's not going to be on the road for a few days more.




