Loose, broken spoke ? Also, valve stem rattling against rim. Why don’t you try another wheel ?

But, yeah, could be the freewheel. What brand and model ?

Chain is already a little slacker than I usually have it. And I know it's definitely not the chain.

I don't have another wheel :( yet.
I can't remember what the model of it is. I'd have to look at it when I ride home from work. I'll also check my spokes.
All of these things were underwater during the flood so I'm not surprised things are failing - but I just want to know what to replace :lol:

Floor pumps that will accept Lezyne hose
 

I love the old screw on chucks of the classic Lezyne pumps, but have had several catastrophic failure of their gauges (usually glass/plastic lenses blows off). I would love to fit the Lezyne hose/chuck head combo onto another more reliable pump.

Does another know of a make of floor pumps that will accept a Lezyne hose? (most use a larger diameter hose and fixture thread)

Yes, check for loose spokes. They make a variety of weird noises.

I vote freewheel. When I used Shimano it sounded a lot like that.

A thought occurred to me on my ride home from work - it can't be a spoke because the noise stops when I stop pedaling lol

Not necessarily. Pedaling loads the spokes in a way different than just coasting.

Probably the freewheel.

loud clunking sound
 

I was riding singlespeed tonight, and heard a loud clunking type sound from the back wheel area. Could that be the freewheel not engaging? Funny someone else just posted a similar question. It happened once or twice when I was really pedalling hard and pounding the pedals, and once when I was doing that and hit a pothole. Guessing the way to fix this is to get a white industries freewheel? (or just ride fixed lol).

Dave

Ah, that won't of helped. Bet the freewheels seen better days!
I hada mtb with a creaky front wheel once, turned out the spokes need half-turn adjustments to nip them up. Didn't feel loose in the slightest, but after that, fine.

Install you handlebar backward. That fixes everything.

That guy really got to you, eh?

Not really.

LOL. Maybe backwards and upside down since they are drop handlebars.

Dave

Difficult to tell because the video hesitates but it seems like it is timed with the crank rotation.

Could be chainring bolts too. I had 2 loose and it made a similar noise, only with load bearing force on the cranks.

Good enough excuse to order one of the ACS paws freewheels from you then.
I just can't decide to go back to 18t, or stay with 17t.

A high quality tire pressure gauge for Schrader?

I don't own a car so I don't use their valves much but the Topeak digital gauge works quite nicely on all the valves and has actually been quite easy to use.

Accu-gauge

Their gauges are the golden standard of both schrader and presta.

I love how they have a little bladder inside to hold the measurement until you decide to reset/ release the held pressure.

The Wika tire pressure gauge is made in Atlanta and high accuracy:

http://files.ctctcdn.com/e1f2fe6a001...0606148fcc.jpg

Dave

I need a set, or a rear wheel, for my SS (the blue raleigh i've posted a bunch) that allows me to add and remove the freewheel without removing the lock nuts and bolts with the cone wrenches, etc. Does such a thing exist? Because the wheels I have now don't allow it while using the park took FR-6 remover...
is it my wheels or are all wheels with bolts & nuts (non QR skewer) like this?

Can you post a pic of the rear wheel and freewheel ? I have a FR-6 (4 prong) freewheel remover, and don’t any problem with it fitting over the axle hardware.

As you can see it nearly fits down - but it’s not far enough and it wobbles and if you try to use a wrench with it as is it loses grip since it isn’t seated fully.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4573/3...a1f220_c_d.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4529/2...3b035e_c_d.jpg

Tighten the remover with the axle nut. That should hold it in place while you use a wrench on the remover. Once the freewheel breaks loose, you can remove the axle nut and unscrew the freewheel by hand with the remover.

Odds are you can stabilize it enough by using an axle nut on the outside.

However the problem is very simple --- the axle is too long. More specifically the built up spacer stack on the right is too high. Remove the outer locknut and the remover will sit flush against the freewheel.

BTW- the freewheel seems to be pretty far inboard. Is this a narrow hub to which you added spacers for a wide frame, or is something else going on?

It’s just an Origin 8 wheelset for singlespeed/track that I got about 3 years ago. Rear fork is 130mm, fit right in right out of the box. No spacers or anything on the wheel. I don’t have a cone wrench - lost all my tools in the flood and haven’t replaced them all yet so I was hoping to just be able to swap the freewheel.

Like I said, just screw on the axle nut to hold the remover in place. It should work ok.

I will try, thanks. But my initial question remains - are there wheels where this is a non-issue? I’m in the market anyway?

Yes, no and maybe.

It's a question of the freewheel position with respect to the face of the axle. As the locknut width increased, and the freewheel stayed inboard to maintain line, that step got bigger.

Odds are that the Park tool you're using was designed around BMX dropout width, and so didn't allow for the longer axles. At some point Park will likely deepen the remover and solve your problem (if they haven't done so already).

In the meantime, either live with it using a nut to hold the remover tight, or get used to taking the locknut off before removing the freewheel.