He's talking about quill length, not stem length.

This is good to know, as I was about to check my FG chain and would have replaced it if it had the 1/8" stretch! I'd put a case around it, oiled it maybe 3 times (once per thousand miles roughly) and have never cleaned it. Since I'm accustomed to leaving chains alone until they complain, and it never has. Am I tempting fate with that?

Why don't you just clean the chain more often? It takes all of 10mins

Inside the case it never gets dirty, except for metal dust and whatever gets through in the air. TBH I also wanted to see just well it would last with little or no maintenance.

I had the same issue. I have an origin 8 quill that was 180mm tall and that's the shortest they did. I did what was suggested here and took a hacksaw and cut off 2 cm.
Pic:
I tried and tried took find a shorter quill length but came up with nothing.

Any horror stories from ordering from Velomine?

eBay, all day long.

Cantis or V's then... Just about anywhere.

My bike has a very short headtube, about 10cm not counting headset, and over the years I have gone through quit a few different quills.

I've watched as a couple of guys here posted about successfully taking hacksaws to their stems but for "reasons" I really do not care much for that sort of thing.

In my experience the current reissue Cinelli 1A stem that takes a 26mm handlebar, which by my not-quite-exact measurement is around 130mm long, fits my short headtube about the best of any quill I've tried. Its not quite slammed, but is a "just right" amount of rise above my headset. Full disclosure - I do have about 5mm of spacers between my topnut and upper cup.

Good luck...

All-City 314 Messenger Chainring for 1/8" Chains in Tree Fort Bikes Chainrings

I have one of these laying around in a 42. Haven't put it on so I can't say if I like it or not.

Steamroller's don't have canti mounts.

I somehow read it as being a cross-check.

Dia-Compe 610's (old or new) or Paul Racers then. Ask me how I know.

Ooops. Here is the info you desire.

Wriding: It Was So Obvious

Standard 47-57mm reach Tektro calipers might work too.

Before taking the hack saw this is what I was going to get but they were out of stock everywhere.

They sent me the wrong size wheel once (27" when I ordered 700c). Promptly corrected the mistake when I got in touch with them about it though. Aside from that, I've shopped with them several times with no problems.

I see a lot of kids ride around LA on Thrones and Unknowns. I've started riding Fixed again, and am enjoying it, but I've always wondered what riding Aluminum would be like. I see you can build one up relatively cheap, anyone have experience riding the Combat or the Prism? Are they fun cheap thrills, or the Track bike equivalent of those Huffy "Cliff Jumper" "mountain" bikes?

Thanks to everyone who responded to my inquiry. This looks like the path to take.

Is a master link ok to use for a 1/8 chain? I know a connecting pin would be stronger, but is there any reason not to use a master link like the one below?

https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Z410NP-Co.../dp/B004JKJLU2

Also, I'm looking at buying a chain tool to replace the chain on my 7 speed rear mtb. Got a 10 speed rear on another bike, and fixed gear with 1/8 chain also. Would the Park CT 3.2 work for all 3 bikes?

Dave

Master links are fine. I've got tens of thousands of miles on motorcycles (street and dirt) using master link chains, and have never experienced a failure. Just make sure it is installed properly, with the open end of the clip facing the opposite direction of the chains travel.

I have no experience with that tool but according to Park it works with all chains except 11-speed Campagnolo.

I'm guessing almost everyone here uses a master link, no? Just make sure it matches your chain.

If you're really worried, you can always get an NJS chain with the screw connector.

This. is... awesome!

Defo going to have to do something like that

Well, No.

Until the narrow Derail road chains for 10/11 cog required a more secured proprietary "connecting link" "master links" were used on coaster brake applications not for FG or Derail chains "back when".
A simple chain tool will suffice to provide safe & positive chain installation for any drive-train flavor from 1890 until the 10 cog derail era.


-Bandera

So I'm guessing almost everyone here uses a master link, no?

I have ordered two wheelsets from Velomine and was more than happy with the experience and the product delivered.

(I actually used one of his wheels to adjust my TS-2.2 yesterday as I knew it to be perfectly dished.)

I have master links on my 10 speed road bike and mtb.

Of course you do, "connecting links" are required for that tech.

For FG use: Not, a simple chain rivet tool/chain breaker provides a reliable robust connection for the last century or so.
Simple, reliable, efficient and very strong as FG tech has been for good reason on the track and on the road for a very long time.

As Always, suit yourself.

-Bandera

I was thinking about going to a master link setup, mostly due to having bad experiences with connecting chains in the past (frozen links). Can someone point me to a good resource for how to connect chains?

Dave