Hi guys,

Kevin here! Im from the netherlands. Just joined the forum.

I've been considering getting a second bike most likely a FG.
The budget is around 1000-1400 euros. depending on how crazy i want to go.
What i want is a commuter FG that is light and nimble but with brakes.


This is my current bike a canyon urban.
This has been my daily commuter for the last 2.5 years.
* Removed the fenders for now





I've been looking into Cinelli X mash frames. I love them but you can't fit brakes on them which is a big no no for me living in the netherlands.

What frames would you guys consider in that budget? What would be a sweetspot value wise?

A classic 531 framed road bike w/ horizontal dropouts and mudguard/rack eyelets converted to FG would be an excellent value, light/nimble enough and practical for commuting. A commuter is subjected to lousy weather, thieves, parking rack abuse and mule-like hauling requirements. New and shiny w/o fittings for practical accessories may not be optimal for prosaic commuter use.

As always, suit yourself.

-Bandera

you should totally buy a leader.

surly steamroller, all-city space horse (horizontal dropouts to run fixed). loads of tire clearance, rack and fender mounts out the ass, comfy geometry.

If you like Cinelli and Mash, get the Mash Work frame. Drilled for brakes, plenty of options for cages or rack mounts. You'd probably max out your budget, but hey, why not?

https://www.citygrounds.com/products...nt=23527559174

Look for early '80s Japanese (or Trek 400 level or the Japanese built Schwinns of those years. There were many bikes made than that serve very well, with horizontal dropouts, fender eyes and many, especially of the earlier '80s, built for 27" wheels and therefor have tons of clearance for big winter tires and fenders. Many of those frames had very decent riding characteristics. You won't rave over them, but they will serve very well.

I ride what I speak. My workhorse fix gear started as a Peugeot UO-8 in 1976. That frame was replaced by a sport Japanese built Schwinn (fun ride!), then a Sekine, then a Miyata 610 (43,000K), then a 400 level '83 Trek (currently at 27,000k). These frames were picked up after the previous was crashed and I got what I could find quickly. Generally quite used from bike shops and with little documentation so I never knew exactly what they were, nor did I care. In total, that "bike" - I consider it to be one continuous bicycle, just one that has seen everything including the frame replaced at least five times - has been ridden in excess of 110,000k in all kinds of weather, much if it in the dark.

Another real plus of sticking to the bikes I am suggesting is that the Japanese did us all a favor by standardizing frames and parts. Over those years, headsets, bottom brackets, seatposts and tubing outside diameters varied little, making swapping the parts out child's play.

Ben

That's a pandoras box. At what point does changing parts on the original bike make it no longer the original bike?

Oh, weight - I made zero attempt to save weight. That old Trek is running 28c Pasela tires, sturdy rims with lots of spokes, fenders, a LowRider front rack, has a U-bolt lock mounted on it, a toolbag with 2 tubes, and 6" crescent (for the rear hub nuts). A custom steel stem (that is a mile long - I have the wingspan of a small airplane), a very ordinary Sugino crankset and Shimano BB. 1/8" chain, ring and cog. Zefal HP pump. 2 steel WB cages. Like I said, no weight savings! 27 pounds or 12 kg (including the lock).

Ben

haha

Cool to hear they actually make a frame that is drilled for brakes.
I dont really like the "rustic" / retro design they go for.

I would probably consider buying a drilled for brakes cinelli x mash frame if the frame looked cooler.

Thanks for everbody's sugestion. As much i want to say i dont care about looks. I really do.
Im looking for something cool looking racey and and maybe a bit flashy.

It is true that flashy shiney bikes get stolen more often. I try to counter act that with a better lock ( Kryptonite forget about it.) with success thusfar.

I didn't intend getting a fixedgear for lousy weather since i got the canyon urban for that. The belt drive and alfine makes cleaning very easy.

I have been looking at 8bar they have some cool paint jobs for their frames. But i hear they're not really that good and worth the $$.

Houston, this is Discovery 9. We have lift off.

Discovery 9, this is Houston. Roger that.

Do you really ride with the saddle at that angle?

Ohh i just got the bike back from service. (canyon)
I actually haven't ridden the bike in 2 weeks.
Haven't adjusted the saddle yet.

[MENTION=386857]UltraManDan[/MENTION] shared his aventon in the 2017 Post Your Fixed Gear / Singlespeed Megathread. Love the aventon diamond frame. I assume it isn't drilled for brakes?

don't know if the new brooks with the artificial rubbery material flexes as much as the real leather saddle's did (i'm assuming it IS a new brooks saddle with the rubbery material), even when new, but i've had to orient mine just about high in front just to keep from sliding forward on them. sad but true.

Its indeed with new rubber. its a brooks cambium.
It doens't flex asmuch but still flex a fair bit after some break in.
The fabric on the surface is pretty rough which helps.

^ that Aventon may be drilled in the front, but more than likely not the back. If you are riding fixed, you really only need the front brake.

Yeh i think front is enough aswell.

I could be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure the front forks are just plugged on the Mash frames. They could be drilled pretty easily. Like the last two posts, front is plenty.

Ah, yes. The paradox of Theseus' ship:

The Ship of Theseus and the Question of Identity - Science and Technology - Utne Reader

That Canyon is sick. If you want a Cinelli Mash frame, better act quick because they're not making them anymore. I'd probably go for something steel with decent tire clearance like All-City or Surly for a commuter.

The Cinelli Mash Bolt 2.0 can take a front brake, IIRC. It also has two sets of bottle bosses. I'd say this is a bad commuter, and go on about practicality, but I commute on a Little Wing.(*)


*) When I can, it's been rainy lately, and wet means it's Surly season.

It is drilled front and back for brakes

But, it doesnt hsve much tire clearance if you want to go bigger than 25mm tires. I have 25's and this is the clearance.

What did you use in you attempt to black out the tire logos?

Thats why its my second bike
That Cinelli Mash bolt 2.0 looks amazing but its a expensive frame.
I've seen some for 600-700
You know of any Cinelli mash frames drilled for brakes ?