Quick gear ratio question
07-11-17, 08:25 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Quick gear ratio question
hey everyone.
I am building up a single speed from parts in the garage. I have a 22 Surly cog left over from bike polo and a 50t chainring. I want to keep this build as at zero co$t.
I live in San Francisco, but don't plan to tackle hills on this bike more a general grocery getter around the city...
How would a 2.27 ratio be as a daily rider?
Any feedback appreciated.
I am building up a single speed from parts in the garage. I have a 22 Surly cog left over from bike polo and a 50t chainring. I want to keep this build as at zero co$t.
I live in San Francisco, but don't plan to tackle hills on this bike more a general grocery getter around the city...
How would a 2.27 ratio be as a daily rider?
Any feedback appreciated.
07-11-17, 08:30 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PHL
Posts: 9,948
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1332 Post(s)
Liked 394 Times
in
190 Posts
Try it and let us know. Only potential problem I can think of would be that a standard chain might not come with enough links.
07-11-17, 08:35 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 36,731
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 131 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4761 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 758 Times
in
472 Posts
Of course it all depends on the type of cadence you're used to. However it seems to be on the low side for general (non-hilly) riding.
I ride about 15% higher gearing (46/17x700c) and find it reasonable. Any higher and I couldn't climb when I had to, and any less and I'd run out of rpm long before I ran out of power on flat ground.
But I'm me, and you're you, so that's what matters.
Think about the gear combinations that see the most use on your current bike, and set this bike up toward the lower end of that bunch (you have to have something to climb with).
OTOH - since zero cost is a goal, you could set it up, and give it a go. Measure the chain so you have room to slide the wheel back if you later chose to drop to a 19 or 20t rear.
I ride about 15% higher gearing (46/17x700c) and find it reasonable. Any higher and I couldn't climb when I had to, and any less and I'd run out of rpm long before I ran out of power on flat ground.
But I'm me, and you're you, so that's what matters.
Think about the gear combinations that see the most use on your current bike, and set this bike up toward the lower end of that bunch (you have to have something to climb with).
OTOH - since zero cost is a goal, you could set it up, and give it a go. Measure the chain so you have room to slide the wheel back if you later chose to drop to a 19 or 20t rear.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
07-11-17, 08:45 PM
#4
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks! your answer helps.
This is a bike I will bring camping for just tooling around campsites and I mostly ride alongside my 8 yearly daughter so it should be fine.
If anything I will go to a lower teeth chainring and not replace that overbuilt surly cog,since it is a cassette conversion with spacers. And if I do find a smaller (free!) chainring, I just need to take some links off without needing a new chain.
This is a bike I will bring camping for just tooling around campsites and I mostly ride alongside my 8 yearly daughter so it should be fine.
If anything I will go to a lower teeth chainring and not replace that overbuilt surly cog,since it is a cassette conversion with spacers. And if I do find a smaller (free!) chainring, I just need to take some links off without needing a new chain.
Originally Posted by FBinNY
Of course it all depends on the type of cadence you're used to. However it seems to be on the low side for general (non-hilly) riding.
I ride about 15% higher gearing (46/17x700c) and find it reasonable. Any higher and I couldn't climb when I had to, and any less and I'd run out of rpm long before I ran out of power on flat ground.
But I'm me, and you're you, so that's what matters.
Think about the gear combinations that see the most use on your current bike, and set this bike up toward the lower end of that bunch (you have to have something to climb with).
OTOH - since zero cost is a goal, you could set it up, and give it a go. Measure the chain so you have room to slide the wheel back if you later chose to drop to a 19 or 20t rear.
I ride about 15% higher gearing (46/17x700c) and find it reasonable. Any higher and I couldn't climb when I had to, and any less and I'd run out of rpm long before I ran out of power on flat ground.
But I'm me, and you're you, so that's what matters.
Think about the gear combinations that see the most use on your current bike, and set this bike up toward the lower end of that bunch (you have to have something to climb with).
OTOH - since zero cost is a goal, you could set it up, and give it a go. Measure the chain so you have room to slide the wheel back if you later chose to drop to a 19 or 20t rear.
