I can understand those who need QR for the front for mobility and convenience etc, that's fair enough. But not on the rear, its never secure enough, just slides about messing your chain tension up.
I feel more solid on the bike knowing both wheels are bolted on. But this psychology only exists on a SS/FG.

Since QR wheels on the rear of professional road racing bikes in the era of horizontal dropouts didn't just slide around under the immense power of Hinault or Merckx they just might be adequate to resist the average BF SS/FG member's slightly lower wattage.
Campagnolo Pista hubs were sold w/ QR until the UCI ban for safety reasons on the velodrome in the '60's not because they just slid around.

Track nuts when properly installed hold wheels firmly in place. QR: Same, same.

As always, suit yourself,

-Bandera

Well... I have Phil Wood hubs, so I'd say I prefer the bolt-on approach. I actually don't have a strong preference. I do like my Phil hubs slightly better than the no-name hubs on my Fuji simply because I can get them on and off without having to carry an extra tool. (I always carry a multi-tool with allen wrenches anyway.

Since most of us riding fixed or ss bikes are using them in a city, I always recommend (and often swap to) bolt on. There is only 1 reason for this...keeping honest people honest. I hate involuntarily giving away rims and rubber! If you have a bike that travels in/on a vehicle with you or gets parked in a secure spot, then by all means use a QR system. If your just running around the town getting coffee and locking your ride up in random places, then make the thieves work for it and bolt those things on.

Funny enough, the only time I ever had a wheel stolen, it was a nutted rear. I lock up better now because good thieves have wrenches.

Yeah, lock both wheels every time. I'd love to live someplace where nuts = secure.

They probably also have something to cut most cable locks. I take my chances with a u-lock through the frame and rear wheel. If I was leaving bike unattended all day long I'd consider fiddling with gravity nuts or something similar. I'm not carrying another u-lock, one is enough of a hassle already.

Yeah and if they can cut a cable, they can probably cut a U-lock too. There's no perfect solution and anyone who claims there is, is either an idiot or a con.

Not that worried and I'd go with locking nuts before that mess.

You can cut most cables with snips, u-lock takes some good size bolt cutters, but I get you're point it's all just a deterrent. A determined thief is going to get your bike or wheel if he wants. You have to decide what balance you want to strike between security and convenience.

I use this guy I think I bought it for like 7 bucks on Amazon. 15mm Stubby wrench.

This is probably one of the best bike specific tools ever created. It works that well.

I'm wondering if you have a huge wheel or tiny arms that you have to walk back to get to both nuts on the rear axle? I just do it sitting behind the bike.

I'm in the QR front (for transport) and bolted rear camp.