Bolt on vs QR
#1
Very Slow Rider
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Bolt on vs QR
I have had both QR and bolt on rear axles on my SS bikes. I do not love QR compared to bolt on; I have no problem packing around a compact 15mm in case of flats. Am I alone in my thinking?
#2
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Nope.
Never understood having QR on SS/FG's to be honest.
Never understood having QR on SS/FG's to be honest.
#3
~>~
It's not 1935 anymore, Tullio's patent provides quick (hence the name) reliable positive wheel retention w/o the need for any tools.
Very handy for road machines of any drive-train flavor except the IGH.
-Bandera
Very handy for road machines of any drive-train flavor except the IGH.
-Bandera
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Bolts/nuts make it easier to square up the rear wheel in track ends IMO. I much prefer allen bolts to 15mm nuts however. On the front it makes no difference to me. Case in point I built wheels with a bolted rear and QR front for my SSCX bike.
#5
Fresh Garbage
I don't see a difference between my FG and any of my other road bikes. QR is just convenient.
It's nice to not have to whip out a wrench to lock up my bike. It's nice to not whip out a wrench to remove the front wheel to get the bike in the trunk of my car or my on my roof rack. My current bike has loose ball rear hub so I might go and make it a QR one day for ****s and giggles.
It's nice to not have to whip out a wrench to lock up my bike. It's nice to not whip out a wrench to remove the front wheel to get the bike in the trunk of my car or my on my roof rack. My current bike has loose ball rear hub so I might go and make it a QR one day for ****s and giggles.
#6
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front wheel QR, rear bolt for me
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"Your beauty is an aeroplane;
so high, my heart cannot bear the strain." -A.C. Jobim, Triste
"Your beauty is an aeroplane;
so high, my heart cannot bear the strain." -A.C. Jobim, Triste
#8
Very Slow Rider
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The bike below w/ the drop bars is my commuter. Was thinking I would change out the rear axle this winter.

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Another QR front, bolt-on rear here. Bolt-on makes dialing in the chain slack really simple. Yes, typically two or three adjusts are requires, but it is brain dead easy. (Brain dead like the state of mind at the top of a 1000' climb when you flip the wheel to the big gear to go back down. Nice to know you got the chain slack right!)
Ben
Ben
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Nutted axles are fine with me. Carrying a wrench is easier than whatever I'd have to do to get QRs on a track hub.
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#13
Full Member
I just picked up this tiny 15mm wrench. $7 and it's shorter than the rolled-up tube I carry in my saddle bag.
#14
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Another QR front, bolt-on rear here. Bolt-on makes dialing in the chain slack really simple. Yes, typically two or three adjusts are requires, but it is brain dead easy. (Brain dead like the state of mind at the top of a 1000' climb when you flip the wheel to the big gear to go back down. Nice to know you got the chain slack right!)
Ben
Ben
By 2-3 adjustments you mean tighten drive side, walk back and tighten non-drive side (2 steps) repeat if necessary, correct?
Just making sure I wasn't doing it wrong (2 steps, good tension, wheel centered) on the red bike which JUST got put together by me (see my signature)
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I usually get mine set without needing to adjust. I just put my fingers between the tire and seat tube, to push the wheel back and hold it in place, tighten the drive side nut, then tighten the non-drive side nut. Exception, as noted above, is when I'm brain-dead after a hard session and can't remember how to use my hands.
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I don't think I'd use one on the rear since I mainly ride brakeless. I prefer bolt on even for the front. Doesn't take that much longer to remove the wheel and it's cleaner looking, more secure, as well as providing slight theft deterrence if running in somewhere and only locking frame/rear wheel.
#17
tumbleweed
I'll be using a 15mm wrench for my fixed gear bikes. I really dont trust them on my old
mtb (q. r. )but they are there so thats that. My wrench is in my backpack with all the rest of my
fixed , flat stuff so its really not a biggie
mtb (q. r. )but they are there so thats that. My wrench is in my backpack with all the rest of my
fixed , flat stuff so its really not a biggie
#18
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YEP! and makes adjusting the locknut pressure on the bearings easier too!!
By 2-3 adjustments you mean tighten drive side, walk back and tighten non-drive side (2 steps) repeat if necessary, correct?
Just making sure I wasn't doing it wrong (2 steps, good tension, wheel centered) on the red bike which JUST got put together by me (see my signature)
By 2-3 adjustments you mean tighten drive side, walk back and tighten non-drive side (2 steps) repeat if necessary, correct?
Just making sure I wasn't doing it wrong (2 steps, good tension, wheel centered) on the red bike which JUST got put together by me (see my signature)
Now I have adjustment screws on my winter bike's dropouts. That one is really easy. Wheel back and to the left until it hits, Tighten the left, rock back until the right makes contact and tighten.
Ben
#19
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#20
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I should have done QR instead of 15mm nuts on the front for my latest build.
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Bolt on for my current rides since that's what they came with. QR on my first single since it was converted from an old Trek 12 sp that came with QR.
I could not find wrenches that were tiny enough for my toolbag on my Pure, so I cut one in half. So far, so good. The tube holds them together and keeps them from rattling around.
I could not find wrenches that were tiny enough for my toolbag on my Pure, so I cut one in half. So far, so good. The tube holds them together and keeps them from rattling around.

#24
Fresh Garbage
#25
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