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Bolt on vs QR

Old 06-01-18, 09:13 AM
  #1  
davei1980
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Bolt on vs QR

I have had both QR and bolt on rear axles on my SS bikes. I do not love QR compared to bolt on; I have no problem packing around a compact 15mm in case of flats. Am I alone in my thinking?
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Old 06-01-18, 09:48 AM
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Nope.

Never understood having QR on SS/FG's to be honest.
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Old 06-01-18, 10:19 AM
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It's not 1935 anymore, Tullio's patent provides quick (hence the name) reliable positive wheel retention w/o the need for any tools.
Very handy for road machines of any drive-train flavor except the IGH.

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Old 06-01-18, 10:53 AM
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Bolts/nuts make it easier to square up the rear wheel in track ends IMO. I much prefer allen bolts to 15mm nuts however. On the front it makes no difference to me. Case in point I built wheels with a bolted rear and QR front for my SSCX bike.
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Old 06-01-18, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by checoles View Post
Never understood having QR on SS/FG's to be honest.
I don't see a difference between my FG and any of my other road bikes. QR is just convenient.

It's nice to not have to whip out a wrench to lock up my bike. It's nice to not whip out a wrench to remove the front wheel to get the bike in the trunk of my car or my on my roof rack. My current bike has loose ball rear hub so I might go and make it a QR one day for ****s and giggles.
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Old 06-01-18, 11:59 AM
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front wheel QR, rear bolt for me
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Old 06-01-18, 01:19 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by TMonk View Post
front wheel QR, rear bolt for me
Yep. I think that's gonna be me this winter when I tear in to my hub for the annual rebuild, good time to make the switch but leave the front QR for the odd times when I have to shove it in the back of my car, etc.
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Old 06-01-18, 01:24 PM
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The red bike I deliberately changed back to bolt on front and rear; this bike is the one I use to tool around with the kids and trips to the library so it's very lockable now (esp. since it's a $10 bike).

The bike below w/ the drop bars is my commuter. Was thinking I would change out the rear axle this winter.
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Old 06-01-18, 01:36 PM
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Another QR front, bolt-on rear here. Bolt-on makes dialing in the chain slack really simple. Yes, typically two or three adjusts are requires, but it is brain dead easy. (Brain dead like the state of mind at the top of a 1000' climb when you flip the wheel to the big gear to go back down. Nice to know you got the chain slack right!)

Ben
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Old 06-01-18, 01:39 PM
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Nutted axles are fine with me. Carrying a wrench is easier than whatever I'd have to do to get QRs on a track hub.
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Old 06-01-18, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by seau grateau View Post
Nutted axles are fine with me. Carrying a wrench is easier than whatever I'd have to do to get QRs on a track hub.
I modify my tool bags so the wrench slides under it and is locked with a velcro tab. Very fast and easy.
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Old 06-01-18, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney View Post
I modify my tool bags so the wrench slides under it and is locked with a velcro tab. Very fast and easy.
That's a good idea. I usually just keep mine in a jersey pocket if I'm not riding with my messenger bag, but those pockets get pretty loaded sometimes.
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Old 06-01-18, 02:06 PM
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I just picked up this tiny 15mm wrench. $7 and it's shorter than the rolled-up tube I carry in my saddle bag.
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Old 06-01-18, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney View Post
Another QR front, bolt-on rear here. Bolt-on makes dialing in the chain slack really simple. Yes, typically two or three adjusts are requires, but it is brain dead easy. (Brain dead like the state of mind at the top of a 1000' climb when you flip the wheel to the big gear to go back down. Nice to know you got the chain slack right!)

Ben
YEP! and makes adjusting the locknut pressure on the bearings easier too!!

By 2-3 adjustments you mean tighten drive side, walk back and tighten non-drive side (2 steps) repeat if necessary, correct?

Just making sure I wasn't doing it wrong (2 steps, good tension, wheel centered) on the red bike which JUST got put together by me (see my signature)
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Old 06-01-18, 02:21 PM
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I usually get mine set without needing to adjust. I just put my fingers between the tire and seat tube, to push the wheel back and hold it in place, tighten the drive side nut, then tighten the non-drive side nut. Exception, as noted above, is when I'm brain-dead after a hard session and can't remember how to use my hands.
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Old 06-01-18, 02:23 PM
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I don't think I'd use one on the rear since I mainly ride brakeless. I prefer bolt on even for the front. Doesn't take that much longer to remove the wheel and it's cleaner looking, more secure, as well as providing slight theft deterrence if running in somewhere and only locking frame/rear wheel.
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Old 06-01-18, 03:23 PM
  #17  
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I'll be using a 15mm wrench for my fixed gear bikes. I really dont trust them on my old
mtb (q. r. )but they are there so thats that. My wrench is in my backpack with all the rest of my
fixed , flat stuff so its really not a biggie
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Old 06-01-18, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by davei1980 View Post
YEP! and makes adjusting the locknut pressure on the bearings easier too!!

By 2-3 adjustments you mean tighten drive side, walk back and tighten non-drive side (2 steps) repeat if necessary, correct?

Just making sure I wasn't doing it wrong (2 steps, good tension, wheel centered) on the red bike which JUST got put together by me (see my signature)
Yeah. I have one bike where I just pull the wheel back and to the left chainstay, tighten the right, center the wheel, tighten the left and it is pefect 90% of the time but that is a rare luxury. My Mooney has a lesser crankset and is fussier about the adjustment (and it depends on just where on the crank position I start) so it usually takes 2-3 tries.

Now I have adjustment screws on my winter bike's dropouts. That one is really easy. Wheel back and to the left until it hits, Tighten the left, rock back until the right makes contact and tighten.

Ben
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Old 06-01-18, 06:00 PM
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Now all we need is some contrarian with a nutted front and QR rear.
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Old 06-01-18, 06:12 PM
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I should have done QR instead of 15mm nuts on the front for my latest build.
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Old 06-01-18, 08:03 PM
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Nutted rear, Brilando clips in front. and a stubby 9/16 wrench in my saddle bag.
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Old 06-01-18, 08:45 PM
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Bolt on for my current rides since that's what they came with. QR on my first single since it was converted from an old Trek 12 sp that came with QR.

I could not find wrenches that were tiny enough for my toolbag on my Pure, so I cut one in half. So far, so good. The tube holds them together and keeps them from rattling around.


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Old 06-03-18, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TimothyH View Post
I should have done QR instead of 15mm nuts on the front for my latest build.
i have an extra axle and skewer for you
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Old 06-03-18, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
Now all we need is some contrarian with a nutted front and QR rear.
Man, don't motivate me.
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Old 06-03-18, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Brad_AZ View Post

I could not find wrenches that were tiny enough for my toolbag
Four inches long. Also a tire lever. PDW 3Wrencho


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