solid axle end protection
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 245
Likes: 78
solid axle end protection
just curious
....do you put something over the axle ends to protect it?
my folding bike has plastic end caps.
but i cannot find replacement.
i never seen it on full size bikes.
for example...
....do you put something over the axle ends to protect it?
my folding bike has plastic end caps.
but i cannot find replacement.
i never seen it on full size bikes.
for example...
Last edited by mtb_addict; 06-04-21 at 09:18 AM.
#3
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 80 wheels
I don't think it's there to protect the axle, but rather to protect you from getting gouged in the leg if you are careless when mounting the bike. Notice how there is also a "protector" on the end of the axle adjuster. In any case, I've never seen something like that, and certainly wouldn't worry about finding replacements.
#5
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
I've been riding fix gears with axles sticking out on the road forever and never seen a need. Any minor damage to threads is quickly straightened out backing off the nut and I have never managed to scrape my leg on it. It looks like just one more thing to have to deal with every flat tire. That axle adjust too!
Trick to getting chain slack very close first try - slide the wheel back firmly against the chain with your left hand at the chainstay, pulling the tire against the chainstay, While holding that firmly, semi-tighten the right (DS) hub nut just tight enough to not slip. Center the tire between the chainstays. Tighten the left (NDS) hub nut. Check chain slack. (I use the wrench and just look for about 1/2" of slack. Spin the pedals and see if the chain goes too tight or loose.) If the chain passes that test, I tighten the DS nut. Done. And next flat, no axle adjust to deal with!
Very strong track riders were using just hub nuts to secure the rear wheel for a century before this fad of adjusters. (They are useful it you want a really tight chain but we old-timers know our drive trains run better and last longer with proper chain slack. If you go to a velodrome, you will see that slack on the vast majority of the bikes and on all ridden by the hotshots. Good mechanics know.)
I realize taking my advice means removing stuff that looks elegant and that you paid for. Reducing the image of the bike from shiny new to a useful working tool.
Trick to getting chain slack very close first try - slide the wheel back firmly against the chain with your left hand at the chainstay, pulling the tire against the chainstay, While holding that firmly, semi-tighten the right (DS) hub nut just tight enough to not slip. Center the tire between the chainstays. Tighten the left (NDS) hub nut. Check chain slack. (I use the wrench and just look for about 1/2" of slack. Spin the pedals and see if the chain goes too tight or loose.) If the chain passes that test, I tighten the DS nut. Done. And next flat, no axle adjust to deal with!
Very strong track riders were using just hub nuts to secure the rear wheel for a century before this fad of adjusters. (They are useful it you want a really tight chain but we old-timers know our drive trains run better and last longer with proper chain slack. If you go to a velodrome, you will see that slack on the vast majority of the bikes and on all ridden by the hotshots. Good mechanics know.)
I realize taking my advice means removing stuff that looks elegant and that you paid for. Reducing the image of the bike from shiny new to a useful working tool.
#6
I've been riding fix gears with axles sticking out on the road forever and never seen a need. Any minor damage to threads is quickly straightened out backing off the nut and I have never managed to scrape my leg on it. It looks like just one more thing to have to deal with every flat tire. That axle adjust too!
Yes, I know how to position the real wheel properly without the adjuster, but ease of adjustment and sentimentality won.
Last edited by Trakhak; 06-04-21 at 11:03 AM.
#7
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Valley Forge: Birthplace of Freedom
Bikes: Novara Safari, CAAD9, WABI Classic, WABI Thunder
No I haven't seen them, though the one on your bike is a nice touch.
My guess is
1: there's not really a functional need as people don't come in contact with them.
2: The market is too small for someone to produce / advertise it.
My guess is
1: there's not really a functional need as people don't come in contact with them.
2: The market is too small for someone to produce / advertise it.
#8
I remember when new bikes had plastic caps on the ends of the axles. I think they were to keep the axles from poking through the shipping boxes. But they got left on the bike when it was sold at the shop.
Of course we debated endlessly about whether they made the bike faster or slower, and whether they were "cool" or not.
Of course we debated endlessly about whether they made the bike faster or slower, and whether they were "cool" or not.
#9
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 80 wheels
I remember when new bikes had plastic caps on the ends of the axles. I think they were to keep the axles from poking through the shipping boxes. But they got left on the bike when it was sold at the shop.
Of course we debated endlessly about whether they made the bike faster or slower, and whether they were "cool" or not.
Of course we debated endlessly about whether they made the bike faster or slower, and whether they were "cool" or not.
#10
Member
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 307
Likes: 86
From: NY
Bikes: Wabi Classic, Bombtrack Hook, Bombtrack Tension, Vitus Substance
You mean like this . . . ?

I replaced my front wheel bolts with Hexlox Hexbolts because I prefer to carry one lock. They just so happen to cover the ends of the axles. Across three SS bikes, I've never had an axle stick out more than half an inch on either side, usually the rear axle. If your axles are sticking out far enough to cause concern, you might want to look at getting a shorter axle.

I replaced my front wheel bolts with Hexlox Hexbolts because I prefer to carry one lock. They just so happen to cover the ends of the axles. Across three SS bikes, I've never had an axle stick out more than half an inch on either side, usually the rear axle. If your axles are sticking out far enough to cause concern, you might want to look at getting a shorter axle.
#12
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From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 80 wheels
Maybe it's really good quality German plastic and really poor quality Chinese steel.
#14
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 80 wheels
#15
I remember when new bikes had plastic caps on the ends of the axles. I think they were to keep the axles from poking through the shipping boxes. But they got left on the bike when it was sold at the shop.
Of course we debated endlessly about whether they made the bike faster or slower, and whether they were "cool" or not.
Of course we debated endlessly about whether they made the bike faster or slower, and whether they were "cool" or not.









