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which threaded (and drilled) fork?

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which threaded (and drilled) fork?

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Old 08-09-05 | 06:17 PM
  #26  
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That headset's a brilliant idea but boy, it sure is ugly. Perhaps a black anodized one won't stick out like a sore thumb.....
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Old 08-09-05 | 06:32 PM
  #27  
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well thanks all. i think i have my solution. the bikeworks fork, a campy headset from ebay, a nitto drop stem and if i can't get the deda in there (which i'm sure i will) a new set of nitto bars too. and a perfect stem, fork and aheadset to sell on ebay. will look so much nicer. i'll post pics when done.
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Old 08-09-05 | 08:33 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by The Fixer
That headset's a brilliant idea but boy, it sure is ugly. Perhaps a black anodized one won't stick out like a sore thumb.....
We only stock black for just that reason.

You can do virtually the same thing w/ a 28.6 seat clamp and a 28.6 spacer if you're using a threadless headset. Best to have the quill stem in place when you start to clamp.

Think about it, and it will come to you.

And that method looks a little slicker.

But once you do that, the GeForce starts to grow on you. Sometimes getting the job done right is pretty. Know what I mean?
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Old 08-10-05 | 12:50 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by The Fixer
........then why not simply chop the steerer to the correct length and have it threaded? I had my steerer threaded for $10 at my LBS
I asked Bernie this very question when he plugged and welded my fork. He looked at me like I was crazy and said that they all eventually strip. I didn't get it right away, but, if you look at the thickness of the tubing on the steerer tube on a threadless fork and then compare that to a threaded one...

If you're gonna get your fork welded, get someone good. There are not many people I would trust to do this modification...
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Old 08-10-05 | 09:42 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by dokushoka
I asked Bernie this very question when he plugged and welded my fork. He looked at me like I was crazy and said that they all eventually strip. I didn't get it right away, but, if you look at the thickness of the tubing on the steerer tube on a threadless fork and then compare that to a threaded one...

If you're gonna get your fork welded, get someone good. There are not many people I would trust to do this modification...
Ah...great point......thanks. In fact in my particular case, my threaded steerer tube was waaay too long to begin with so I chopped about 3" off and took it to my LBS for threading. I didn't realize tubing thicknesses were different between the two...

EDIT: On second thought, later on I'm going to look at steerer tubes of spare forks I have laying around to see how significant the diff in tubing thickness is.

Last edited by roadfix; 08-10-05 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 08-10-05 | 12:48 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by The Fixer
I didn't realize tubing thicknesses were different between the two...
Steel steering tubes, in general, have 1.6mm thick walls.

So a 1" (25.4mm) steerer minus 3.2mm of walls turns into the famous 22.2mm I.D.

And an 1 1/8" (28.6mm) steerer has a 25.4mm I.D.

Our threadless 1 1/8 forks have thinner walls in the portion of the steerer that is inside the head, at least on longer frames. This saves a little weight.
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Old 08-10-05 | 01:00 PM
  #32  
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