which threaded (and drilled) fork?
#1
which threaded (and drilled) fork?
ok, i'll admit, i'm doing this strictly for looks, so flame away if you feel i'm stealing your culture for posing's sake:
I want to replace the threadless set-up on my track bike with a threaded one, so i want to buy a steel track fork, and yes i run a front brake on the street so i'd like it to come drilled.
any recommendations?
I want to replace the threadless set-up on my track bike with a threaded one, so i want to buy a steel track fork, and yes i run a front brake on the street so i'd like it to come drilled.
any recommendations?
#5
Straight blade chrome from BikeWorks, $57, beautiful. Quite a few here have them.
https://bikecult.com/works/parts/FKgenSB.html
https://bikecult.com/works/parts/FKgenSB.html
#7
If the fork is otherwise a-ok, you're happy with it - aside from it being threadless - and it is steel, you could simply have the steerer cut down and have a threaded steerer welded onto your current fork by a competent frame builder. There is someone on the forum who had this done to his Soma Rush fork and it worked out really well. I think it cost him a whopping $45.
m.
m.
#8
fork is fine, but that sounds like a lot of time and work, and i'd have to REALLY trust the welder to ride that. think i'd rather just buy a new one and ebay/cl the old one to be honest
#9
Originally Posted by absntr
Straight blade chrome from BikeWorks, $57, beautiful. Quite a few here have them.
https://bikecult.com/works/parts/FKgenSB.html
https://bikecult.com/works/parts/FKgenSB.html

bikeworks is a 5 minute ride from the crib too. holla!
#10
Originally Posted by mcatano
If the fork is otherwise a-ok, you're happy with it - aside from it being threadless - and it is steel, you could simply have the steerer cut down and have a threaded steerer welded onto your current fork by a competent frame builder. There is someone on the forum who had this done to his Soma Rush fork and it worked out really well. I think it cost him a whopping $45.
m.
m.
Personally the Pista fork isn't pretty - that straight blade BikeWorks fork would look great on a chrome pista.
#11
Originally Posted by mcatano
If the fork is otherwise a-ok, you're happy with it - aside from it being threadless - and it is steel, you could simply have the steerer cut down and have a threaded steerer welded onto your current fork by a competent frame builder. There is someone on the forum who had this done to his Soma Rush fork and it worked out really well. I think it cost him a whopping $45.
m.
m.
#13
Originally Posted by absntr
Personally the Pista fork isn't pretty - that straight blade BikeWorks fork would look great on a chrome pista.
#15
I have the Bikeworks fork. had it for a little over a year. Good fork overall, looks great. You might want to grind off the lawyer tabs.
__________________
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
#16
Originally Posted by eddiebrannan
not sure why it'll help, but it's a pista. i dislike the look of threadless stems, and would prefer a quill.
This won't drill your fork, but you can switch to a YST GeForce headset.
It installs like a threadless, but you can use a quill stem (or a threadless stem, or both).
I have some GeForces. Email me and we can talk about it. info@kogswell.com
It would be a simple, sub-$20 fix.
#17
Originally Posted by absntr
Personally the Pista fork isn't pretty - that straight blade BikeWorks fork would look great on a chrome pista.
Grunk's Pista with the straight blade forks, as posted in the photos thread, looks awesome.
m.
#19
Originally Posted by Kogswell
This won't drill your fork, but you can switch to a YST GeForce headset.
It installs like a threadless, but you can use a quill stem (or a threadless stem, or both).
I have some GeForces. Email me and we can talk about it. info@kogswell.com
It would be a simple, sub-$20 fix.
It installs like a threadless, but you can use a quill stem (or a threadless stem, or both).
I have some GeForces. Email me and we can talk about it. info@kogswell.com
It would be a simple, sub-$20 fix.
thank you for the post, but here's the thing: i really don't like the look of the pista fork (ps it's drilled anyway), so the bikeworks fork looks like a great solution.
please explain the headset to me anyway, it sounds interesting. i'm in LA on a work trip right now and using ther hotel's computer, so don't have my entourage to email you, but please email me the info at eddie@eddiebrannan.com. i'll get back to you thursday.
Originally Posted by The Fixer
If you're using your present pista bars, make sure they fit through the Nitto track stem...
they are regular deda steel track drops. anyone know if they're a different size than nittos or any other? i mean if so no biggie; they'll join the current fork/stem/headset etc on ebay, but i had no idea that track bars came in different clamp sizes.
Originally Posted by mcatano
Grunk's Pista with the straight blade forks, as posted in the photos thread, looks awesome.
but yea the fork really lets that bike down i feel. and steel track bikes deserve quills (lugs too come to that but hey…)
Last edited by eddiebrannan; 08-09-05 at 02:45 PM.
#20
Originally Posted by eddiebrannan
but i had no idea that track bars came in different clamp sizes.
#21
just checked and indeed they are 26mm. good call fixer. question: can you not justuse a screwdriver to expand the Nitto the needed half-millimeter? i feel i used to do **** like that back in the days i had old quill-stem road bikes and went through living hell getting anatomic bars in there
#22
Originally Posted by eddiebrannan
just checked and indeed they are 26mm. good call fixer. question: can you not justuse a screwdriver to expand the Nitto the needed half-millimeter? i feel i used to do **** like that back in the days i had old quill-stem road bikes and went through living hell getting anatomic bars in there
#23
Full Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 347
Likes: 11
Originally Posted by eddiebrannan
they are regular deda steel track drops. anyone know if they're a different size than nittos or any other? i mean if so no biggie; they'll join the current fork/stem/headset etc on ebay, but i had no idea that track bars came in different clamp sizes.
EDIT: Just saw the above post about fitting a 26.0 bar into a 25.4 clamp. I wouldn't try it, but apparently it works in some cases.
but yea the fork really lets that bike down i feel. and steel track bikes deserve quills (lugs too come to that but hey…)
It's a shame how a lot of the great Italian builders have switched to AL, TIG-welding (or whatever method doesn't employ lugs), carbon bits, threadless stems, clipless pedals, etc.- all for the goal of a modern appearance. I've almost given up geared bikes because it's impossible to keep up, and even harder to repair/replace older componentry. Ah, if only Campagnolo hadn't allowed Shimano to lead them down the path of clickshifting and black (ano or carbon) parts...
I can vouch for the quality of Bernie Mikkelsen's work. He cut and replaced the steerer tube on a Soma fork I bought.
#24
Originally Posted by eddiebrannan
thank you for the post, but here's the thing: i really don't like the look of the pista fork (ps it's drilled anyway), so the bikeworks fork looks like a great solution.
please explain the headset to me anyway, it sounds interesting. i'm in LA on a work trip right now and using ther hotel's computer, so don't have my entourage to email you, but please email me the info at eddie@eddiebrannan.com. i'll get back to you thursday.
please explain the headset to me anyway, it sounds interesting. i'm in LA on a work trip right now and using ther hotel's computer, so don't have my entourage to email you, but please email me the info at eddie@eddiebrannan.com. i'll get back to you thursday.
The GeForce headset is kool, but ugly. It looks just like any other headset up to to the top cup. (It has roller bearings at the bottom, ala the famous Stronglight headsets)
The top cup is a two-piece affair. The cup is on bottom and there is a collar above. The cup and collar are threaded and one screws into the other. You then:
- slide the cup and color on the fork and down into the bearing, loosely
- you tighten the collar onto the steerer, using a little bolt on the collar
- then you unscrew the cup and it screws down into the bearing and load the bearing
- finally, you tighten the cup against the steerer using another little bolt
I think they're kool because you can use a threadless fork and a quill stem. We use them here and we love them. They're very geeky.
The downside is that they aren't very pretty. And we appreciate how important beauty is, in all of its many forms.
I have a soft spot in my heart for YST products. The owner/designer is a krazy man who focuses on the technical and gets cash up front for all orders. My kind of guy.
#25
I found a 1" threadless road fork and just cut threads into it myself. It was time-consuming and had to be done very carefully, but IMHO is a much nicer solution than hacking and welding bits together.






