you dont plan on it, but you will.

ive already outgrown my rando bag and have one 3x the size coming. lmao

perfect for day rides tho, fits SO MUCH FOOD

Besides the Nitto Jaguar, what other quill stems have this angle? With a 26mm clamp?
(Hopefully something not ultra-rare/$$$)

I would like a Cinelli A1 but in that angle/26mm clamp....I found the 2A but I'm not sure if they came with a 26mm clamp.

I came across this one at some point in my travels, don't know anything about quality or the company selling it. It's 25.4 however. The only other ones I recall seeing were Cinelli, 3TTT, and the like, and are probably more expensive than a Nitto Jag.

Cinelli 2A is not as steep as the stem in the pic and was 26.4mm

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=474940

Considering how long 26.0mm quills were a standard there has got to be something like that out there but off the top of my head I can't think of it and I know Jaguar is 25.4. Nitto does offer several 26mm but IIRC they are all pretty level, just like a 1A

Thanks for the link...I may end up buying that stem to see if I like the angle. Then I can always purchase a Jaguar (or a Pearl) later.

Yeah, I love the Cinelli 2A but it seems people treat these like gold nowdays with used pricing.

Anyone know what type of bars these are? The drop seems shallow....and the bend is more squared off/angular.

Like a B125 but more compact...or maybe it's the angle of the photo/high rise stem throwing me off.


http://40.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ky...mi6o1_1280.jpg

Those bars look like they have a 31.8mm clamp area to me. All Nitto SSB (31.8) bars have a large bulge in the center, not smooth like the bars pictured.

My guess is Deda Velocita.

I've always run my chain semi-taut. Just tight enough so it has a little bit of give when pressing down on the middle area. Now that I've gotten into fixed gear, I'm making a bigger effort to check the chain often because Seattle has a lot of hills and the last thing I want is to lose a chain on a downhill.

I came across this youtube video of an obvious higher level racer doing 200rpm+ cadence on rollers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANgJ5e-VWok

I noticed his chain seemed to have a lot of play. Is that common for racers to run that much play for less friction? Then I saw this comment:
"chain should be as loose as possible without being able to roll it off the chainring by hand. Least amount of friction is good."
It pretty much goes against everything I've been taught about chain setup.

Didn't even notice that. Thanks.

I'm not sure about there being less friction in a slacker chain because as soon as the pedal turns the top of the chain becomes taught. Seems like it would take the same amount of energy unless the chain was so tight as to bind the chain as it rotates. As long as the chain isn't loose enough to fall off or tight enough to bind, it's all good. you can really get a lot of play in a chain and still be completely fine

New SS help. Would like to spend less than $400

HiT, Cro , AL

Any components that are must have it stay away from.

Do SS bikes measure different than road. In road I always thought I was 53cm. Just test road a 56cm big shot that felt right.

Suggestions for brands and sellers? Really want bullhorns and minimum 28c tires.

Thanks

Not exactly what I consider to be a quick question. Did you even bother looking here first??

http://www.bikeforums.net/singlespee...cky-index.html

Your chain should have NO tension. It SHOULD have some slop and sag. The quoted part of your post is correct. It should be loose, but not enough to derail. Loosen your chain for at least 1/2 - 3/4 inch of vertical play, turn the cranks while using a screwdriver or wrench to TRY to derail it. You'll find that you can't derail it even while trying to, so it aint going to happen on the road, even over bumpy surfaces.

Ride your bike for a mile with your chain adjusted the way you have been doing it. Stop, make the adjustment to the correct sloppy adjustment, and immediately ride it. If you have normal to good sensitivity you should immediately notice a BIG difference. Smoother and easier. You should even notice the difference when turning the cranks by hand, a LOT.

Tight chains are bad for the chain, chain rings, cogs, BB bearings and hub bearings.

Bigshot has their measurements on the small side, that is why it fit you. I would avoid that bike like the plague. I had one, I speak from experience, it is junk. All of it is pure junk. By the time I was done, the only thing left stock was the frame, seatpost, clamp, chain, bars and headset. Everything else was swapped out. BB, cranks, tires, tubes, wheels, brake, pedals, saddle all were replaced for something better. If you plan on riding it down to the store to pick up a sandwich or whatever, it will be fine. Ride it more than that and you will see the shortcomings of that bike. That goes for most fixed gear bikes in the price range. Save your money, get something better.

Good lockring tool?

The Park Tool HCW-17 doesn't look so great. It doesn't look like it engages the notch in the ring too well. Is there something better?

Hozan lockring pliers | Retrogression

or
http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Lockring-Pliers

Perfect. Thanks.

Looking to upgrade from my Kilo WT to a Surly Steamroller.

Not sure if that is right for me for a few reasons. Looking at All City Big Block as well. Anything else you guys know of that can fit 700x32s with fenders?

surly, salsa, all city, soma all have bikes with clearance for real tires, and typically much more

Curious to see what fenders will work with caliper brakes.

i had touring cascadia fenders on my fuji with 32s with room to spare, caliper brakes worked fine (single pivot diacompe)

Thanks guys. Fenders w/ brakes is a no go... why not?

... should note we are thinking of moving to the PFW and so I would have a dedicated commuter that can deal with rain/wet. Caliper brakes a no go?

i literally just said i have a bike withe caliper brakes and fenders and gave the model of fender, not to mention any fender can be bent or cut to fit in the gap of a brake caliper

if you expect to be in the rain a lot rim brakes are the least effective option. they still technically work, but dont expect to stop on a dime

disc and drum are better options

Any chance you got pics of that? Track dropouts on the fuji? Looking for a solution for the mondial that provides full coverage.