I have a set of Bontrager RXL mtb shoes that I got from a swap meet, and they're really nice shoes. Carbon sole, removable spikes, light, stiff for mtb shoes, and very minimal padding in the uppers.

I know little about mountain bikes and even less about MTB wheels. Help me out here...
The description for American Classic MTB Race 29 Tubeless wheels says they are compatible with Shimano/SRAM? Does that mean they accept MTB cassettes only? Are MTB and road cassettes interchangeable? Will these wheels accept an Ultegra or 105 road cassette for example?

My thought is to use a wider wheel like this on road or cross bike (like a CAADX) for use on gravel. Aside from clearance and disk brakes, will these wheels work on what is essentially a road bike or are cassettes, axles and quick releases not interchangeable?

Shimano and Sram share the same spline e pattern for road and mountain, only complication is figuring out if those take 11sp if that's what you want. Does your frame accept 135mm rear spacing? Plenty of cross bikes take 135 but not so common on road bikes.

And the Thru-axle QRs will be problematic for road and many CX bikes...

I appreciate the two responses. The whole thing is theoretical right now. I'm trying to figure out what I want to do and budget for it.

The CAADX I'm considering comes with Formula CX-22 hubs. The Formula website says that the Outside Locknut Distance is on those hubs is 135mm. It has disk brakes as well so I'm pretty confident that it is 135mm rear spacing.

I don't understand the issue with Thru-Axle or even what that is but still reading.

Thanks again.

By riding my bike.

Seriously. Toe overlap isn't as big of a deal in real life as it is in some people's heads.

a thru axle screws directly into the frame/fork, if your bike doesnt have them (or the "chips" to switch) theres no way the wheel is attaching to the bike

http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.imdserve.co...kb3-700-80.jpg

the easiest way to tell outside of the bike stating in plain english that it has them, is that the rear spacing would be listed as 12x142.

the axle diameter is 12mm thick and the OLD is 142. its same as a 135mm QR hub, except the inside has been gutted and spacers put on the ends to elongate the hub so it bites into the frame when you tighten

This!

From what I can tell though, those wheels can be setup with QR. At least it seems so when you go to a site selling them and pick the QR options.

And from this review, they say they'd be great on a gravel/cross bike, so I think they'd be good for what your looking for.
American Classic Race 29?er Wheelset Review |

yes shouldve pointed that out, most hubs can be converted either way with a different axle and endcaps

most, but not all. doublecheck if you want to go either way, but youre not that stupid

Any reason why I shouldn't put 650 wheels on my 49cm '80s Schwinn?

First you'll need to specify whether you mean 650b or 650c, which are not the same thing.

Then someone should be able to advise further.

I'm awaiting delivery of a 1983 Koga Miyata with a Shimano Adamas AX groupset

what brake pads will fit? I'm hoping Kool Stop Salmon

I read that review and that's what got me thinking about those wheels. A little pricey but doable.

The engineer in me needs to know the feeds and speeds though. Education doesn't hurt and it pays to be sure when thinking about plunking down a few thousand dollars.

Really appreciate the responses. :thumb:

650c

This is an unusual conversion, far less common than the 650b conversion. That said, you should be alright. This person has converted several and seems to be the authority on these:

convert 700c to 650c | Restoring Vintage Bicycles from the Hand Built Era

Thanks, but I'd be converting from a 27".

I'm that stupid. I bought new/used mtn bike wheels shortly after buying my mtb...went with the cannondale website specs that listed 15mm as the front hub, ends up it was 20mm.

In my frustration, I destroyed the bearings on that wheelset (long story). Now they just in my bike shed. At some point, I'll replace the bearings and sell them.

for the record that was directed at tim

http://marijuana.cc/wp-content/uploa...lf-baked-2.png

LOL

http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view3/469...as-jokes-o.gif
those was JOKES! i was FOOLIN YALL!

Oh yeah...I just wanted to bring up my stupidity. The sad thing about all of it, I bought what I thought were bearings to convert the hub to 20mm, destroyed the 15mm bearings trying to remove them because I'm an idiot, and then the 20mm bearings didn't work, so now I just have a front wheel, with no bearings and a crappy hub.

id advise against this.

27" to 650c is a pretty significant wheel change, like 2". handling could end up wonky, the bb would drop significantly, and finding brakes with that much reach would be next to impossible

Why would you want to do this?

lol just ****in with you

i ruined a bunch of skateboard bearings when i was a kid before i knew what i was doing, so i know that feel

Half inch closer to the ground...I'm 5'5"
More tire selection
Make the (tiny) bike look more balanced/symetrical
stronger, lighter, less rotating mass
Availability of inexpensive wheels, pre-built with flip/flop hubs

no?

more tire selection? i dont even know where you can get 650c tires, much less wheels set up for a FG bike. 27" is hard enough. the bike would drop a lot more than half an inch and youd risk bashing your pedals just going straight, forget turning.

how bout you jsut put some regular 700c wheels on it?

or, idunno, a bike that fits?