Originally Posted by jacobsever (Post 18853302)

I installed a new chain last week, put no additional lube on it. Did two 30+ mile rides and everything seems absolutely perfect. I know it's no century or anything, but 30 miles is still more than a quick ride around the neighborhood.

Originally Posted by IAmSam (Post 18853336)

Yup a couple 30 miile bike rides definitely proves that anything you may have to say about riding bikes must be factual - right? - keep up the good work,,,

Originally Posted by SquidPuppet (Post 18853380)

So I guess you missed my post...the one with the actual facts. Good job.

Originally Posted by IAmSam (Post 18853404)

Good luck to you & your buddy Jacob - how silly of me (& any others) to have ever lubed our chain...

Originally Posted by IAmSam (Post 18853094)

Wow - has it been a week already since this was posted? While I am sure just about everybody else here already knows it...that is incorrect



And this is too...

Originally Posted by TimothyH (Post 18854082)

Are frames with threaded headset/fork able to be converted to threadless by just removing the old headset and swapping in a new, threadless headset?

I mean, as long as it is the right size for the head tube, the headset just presses into the frame either way, right? Or no?

Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie (Post 18854405)

You will also need a new fork.

Originally Posted by cDiff Notorious (Post 18854333)

Yeah, threadless headset are pressed. I think you can get a converter to be able to use a threadless stem instead of replacing the headset. But if your planning to replace the headset, you might need to get a 1" threadless headset.

Originally Posted by TimothyH (Post 18854448)

I already have the fork. That's why I'm asking.

Thinking of getting a frame but it comes with a headset for a threaded fork. I don't want that.





Thanks for this. Not interested in a converter.

I wasn't sure how headsets for a threaded fork attach to the frame head tube but after looking at some pictures it appears that you are correct, it just presses in.

--

Gracias a los dos.

-Tim-

Originally Posted by Jixr (Post 18854509)

Velodrome near me is having a new rider class tomorrow, wondering what gearing and tires I should use?

currently my steepest I have is 48-16, but I got a buddy who can sell me cogs at $5 each, so I may see if he has a 15-14t

Tires I have 23's-28's laying around

Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 18853489)

I still don't understand why it even matters what anyone does.

Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 13948494)

No it isn't. As I've said numerous times before, the factory "lube" on most chains is only present to keep chains from forming surface corrosion while inside the packaging. No one wants to open a brand new chain and find surface rust.

You don't have to go crazy scrubbing it all off but I've found it's always a good idea to replace it with a quality wet lube.

Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 13856468)

The "lube" that comes on most new chains is typically just to keep them from corroding inside the packaging in the event of them sitting around in a warehouse for too long. If a chain was packaged dry, it would most likely be covered with surface rust by the time it got to you. I've found that it's best to clean as much of that waxy stuff off a new chain right out of the box and reapply a good wet lube.

Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 13454618)

I'm not trying to "discourage" anyone - except for people who think they know it all and end up sounding foolish.

First of all, the factory "lube" which comes on most chains is complete crap and is pretty much only present to keep chains from corroding in their packaging. Would you want to buy a brand new rusty chain? Secondly, chain-cleaning tools aren't very necessary for a singlespeed drivetrain and can be more of a pain in the ass than they are worth. Last but not least, the way eboston words his posts is ridiculous.

Considering I don't use master links, I wasn't necessarily "opposed" to anything he said regarding that miniscule aspect of his post. However, stating that master links create a weak spot and that pin removal creates a weak spot in the same series of run on sentences is just plain confusing. To add to that confusion, he states one shouldn't really need to clean their chain at all, yet it's a good idea to purchase a chain-cleaning apparatus.

Carry on.

Originally Posted by IAmSam (Post 18858550)

Really kind of obviates the need for any enthusiast interwebz forums/groups at all - perhaps BikeForums would like to be the 1st to shut down?

But before they do...could someone please tell me again how this group feels about whether one should clean and relube their new chain or not, now? Hmmm?

Originally Posted by IAmSam (Post 18858550)

Really kind of obviates the need for any enthusiast interwebz forums/groups at all - perhaps BikeForums would like to be the 1st to shut down?

But before they do...could someone please tell me again how this group feels about whether one should clean and relube their new chain or not, now? Hmmm?