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Originally Posted by motrheadsroadie
(Post 18858603)
Originally Posted by seau grateau
(Post 18858640)
Was it worth the time you spent sleuthing up those quotes to "win" an argument on the internet? FWIW I still say it's not necessary.
Carry on :innocent: |
Originally Posted by motrheadsroadie
(Post 18858603)
Some relevant highlights. One of Shimano’s main tech gurus, Nick Murdick The grease that comes on a Shimano chain is applied at the factory to the individual pieces before the chain is assembled. The grease does a better job of reducing friction than aftermarket chain lubes and it lasts longer. So the best thing to do when installing a new chain is to leave the factory grease on, not apply any other lube, ride until it wears out and then start applying liquid chain lube. The factory grease also keeps the chain nice and quiet. After soaking a chain in degreaser and then lubing the chain with liquid lubricant the chain gets noticeably louder. |
Facts shmacts.
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
(Post 18858689)
Thanks for that.
Some relevant highlights. One of Shimano’s main tech gurus, Nick Murdick The grease that comes on a Shimano chain is applied at the factory to the individual pieces before the chain is assembled. The grease does a better job of reducing friction than aftermarket chain lubes and it lasts longer. What I don't understand is why everyone acts like the factory lube is made of unicorn blood, that is is completely unavailable to anyone apart from the guy who operates the lube machine in the Shimano factory in Japan. It must be commercially available somewhere. Imma find it, package it and sell it at high end bike botiques, enough to do one chain for like $50. Feeling a kickstarter coming on. |
Originally Posted by TimothyH
(Post 18858780)
What I don't understand is why everyone acts like the factory lube is made of unicorn blood, that is is completely unavailable to anyone apart from the guy who operates the lube machine in the Shimano factory in Japan. It must be commercially available somewhere.
Imma find it, package it and sell it at high end bike botiques, enough to do one chain for like $50. Feeling a kickstarter coming on. $50? Come the fk on. People already pay $140 for pre "optimized" chains. ( http://www.ceramicspeed.com/sport/products/Chains ) You should be able to get at least $200 for a jug of "optimal" lube |
Originally Posted by TimothyH
(Post 18858780)
What I don't understand is why everyone acts like the factory lube is made of unicorn blood, that is is completely unavailable to anyone apart from the guy who operates the lube machine in the Shimano factory in Japan. It must be commercially available somewhere.
Imma find it, package it and sell it at high end bike botiques, enough to do one chain for like $50. Feeling a kickstarter coming on. |
Originally Posted by hardboiled718
(Post 18859380)
It's not that factory lube is unicorn blood or something beyond reproach. It really boils down to the fact that it's a new chain free of grit and dirt, and each part has been lubed pre-assembly insuring all of the spaces between the pins and bushings etc. have adequate lubricant. It's hard to get a used chain fully clean with a fresh application of lubricant to soak into every nook and cranny. Not that it's the end of the world if you don't, it's really just lube on a chain
I still say its nothing but Cosmoline Rust Veto 342. Some day when I have $39 to blow and nothing better to do I'm going to order a quart of the stuff, heat it in a coffee can and soak a chain in it to find out. My grandfather used to have cans of cosmoline in his garage. Rolls of 25% silver solder, gallon cans of flux, jars of mercury, benzyne, all just laying around. For some reason he screwed a hose clamp onto the fender well under the hood of his car and used it to hold a glass bottle of carbon tetrachloride. I don't know why. [h=1][/h] |
I honestly cannot believe this is still being discussed.
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Hey Scrod, how big are your thighs? I heard there is some dude running around here with 31 inchers!
damnit meant to put this in the ask scrod thread |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 18859608)
I honestly cannot believe this is still being discussed.
The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System |
Originally Posted by TimothyH
(Post 18859463)
But many people are saying that it is "far superior" to any aftermarket lube you can get.
I still say its nothing but Cosmoline Rust Veto 342. Some day when I have $39 to blow and nothing better to do I'm going to order a quart of the stuff, heat it in a coffee can and soak a chain in it to find out. My grandfather used to have cans of cosmoline in his garage. Rolls of 25% silver solder, gallon cans of flux, jars of mercury, benzyne, all just laying around. For some reason he screwed a hose clamp onto the fender well under the hood of his car and used it to hold a glass bottle of carbon tetrachloride. I don't know why.
Originally Posted by veganbikes
(Post 18859641)
Exactly Sheldon Brown already discussed this at length on his website, why would anyone feel the need to go against his word?
The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System |
Does anyone know anything about Lotto shoes? I found a pair in my size, locally on Craigslist. But I can't find anything about them at all. They seem to be a soccer company, and make lots of soccer products. But I can't find any information about their cycling shoes. Model is apparently "1000". Google yielded nothing.
http://i.imgur.com/9CgflO6.jpg |
Real dumb question alert: I just popped my crabon wheel cherry ... but I'm not using carbon-specific pads (yet). I intend on getting some, but in the meantime, I'm using brand-spanking-new, never-before-used Campy Record brake pads (the ones that came with the calipers) which, obviously, were intended to be used with alloy wheels. Initial report is that the bike stops when I squeeze the levers, so there's that at least. Burning questions:
1) am I doing damage to my wheels? 2) what's the worst that can happen? |
In theory, standard brake pads are made of rubber that is much too hard - and get too hot - for carbon rims and will eventually damage the sidewalls. Pads designed specifically for carbon rims will wear faster, but your rims will last much longer. Cork pads are also suitable for use on carbon but they suck.
You spent the money on carbon wheels, spend a little extra on the right pads. |
I have experience with the shimano and enve carbon pads, both seem to be about the same.
I have heard good thing about the blue reynolds pads tho but haven't tried them. |
Question about my seatpost. It's been slipping a lot lately.
http://i.imgur.com/2yqWSfg.jpg It fell that much during an easy 9 mile ride, averaging 15mph. Just a casual stroll to get breakfast. Yes, the seat post is the correct size. The clamp is tightened as tight as it can go. I'm wondering if the clamp is just getting worn out? I can't find any place that sells replacements, short of contacting Bianchi directly. Doesn't look like the only person that's faced this problem either. https://www.******.com/r/FixedGearBicycle/comments/2bdf7s/question_my_thomson_seatpost_keeps_slipping_on_my/ |
Clean all the grease off the post and from inside the seat tube. Use carbon installation paste instead.
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Originally Posted by jacobsever
(Post 18865120)
Does anyone know anything about Lotto shoes?
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Why doesn't Chris King make 120mm rear hubs? Seems really odd.
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Originally Posted by 50voltphantom
(Post 18877815)
Why doesn't Chris King make 120mm rear hubs? Seems really odd.
http://www.bikeforums.net/singlespee...rack-hubs.html |
Originally Posted by 50voltphantom
(Post 18877815)
Why doesn't Chris King make 120mm rear hubs? Seems really odd.
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
(Post 18877829)
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 18878103)
Because Phil Wood already does it better than they could.
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Been experiencing more than average post-ride pain in the outer-side of knee area (both legs) recently. Fitment issue or just regular strain? I have been going on longer, harder rides more frequently the past couple weeks, so it seems like maybe I've just been giving my legs a little more than they can handle on the new road bike.
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Originally Posted by seau grateau
(Post 18887324)
Been experiencing more than average post-ride pain in the outer-side of knee area (both legs) recently. Fitment issue or just regular strain? I have been going on longer, harder rides more frequently the past couple weeks, so it seems like maybe I've just been giving my legs a little more than they can handle on the new road bike.
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Yeah, that makes sense. Leg extension is basically the same as my other bikes, haven't looked closely at fore-aft saddle position. It also has 172.5mm cranks as opposed to 170 and 165 on my other bikes, but I don't know if that would really have an effect here.
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