The bike fits fine. No pun intended, but I'm reaching when I mention the advantage of being closer to the ground. Not that it matters much, but I'm on my tippy toes. Besides, aren't 650c wheels 26" tall?

Wait...do you mean while your seated? If so, you're not supposed to be able to stand flat-footed while seated.

I know this. Probably shouldn't haven't mentioned the whole tippy toe thing. facepalm.

Nevermind. I had the wrong info. I just saw this....

27" = 630mm
650c = 571mm

Those numbers are just the BSD (bead seat diameter). The overall wheel diameter, including the tire, is larger. Also, it is dependent on the tire width, since a wider tire will also be taller.

If you are dead set on 650c (which I don't think there's anything wrong with, by the way), why don't you look into a bike with a 650c frame? Wabi makes nice stuff, and their 650c bike should be no different if you can swing it, budget-wise:

Wabi Cycles Classic 650C fixed gear bike specs

Further down the totem pole, Pure Fix also makes a 650c bike:

https://www.purefixcycles.com/collections/micro-series

Now, Pure Fix isn't something I'd typically recommend to just anyone, but here, I seriously doubt that bike would do any worse than an old Schwinn that has been converted from 27" to 650c.

Good luck.

Thanks leegf. I am far from dead set. The two bikes you link only come in 42 and 43, which would be way too small. I'm probably just overthinking the whole 650c thing.

Anyone mount a GoPro on the seat stay?

I can't find a way to get the camera level using the parts in the Bicycle mount kit.

How do you deal with the fact that the seat stay is angled? How do you level the camera?

id use the ball head for that kind of scenario

I see a lot of bikes with the rear wheel set right up against the end of the dropouts to get the tyre as flush against the frame as possible for uber clearance points, but short of splitting the chain every time how exactly are you meant to remove the wheel and unhook the chain if there's no more room it to move forward in the dropouts?

If the gear ratio is right, it's usually possible to have your wheel slammed but leave just enough wiggle room to pedal the chain off the chainring when removing the rear wheel.

The other thing is that even if the wheel is slammed, if you loosen the bolts you can still move the front of the tire to the left, which brings the cog slightly closer and gives enough slack to remove the chain. Also you don't have to life the whole chain off the cog but just enough so that if you keep turning the wheel it comes off. It is a lot easier than it looks. I don't think it would be an issue even if your tire was actually touching the bike. As a last resort you could also just let air out of the tire.

I deflate the tire. I have to. That gives me an inch of forward movement to help derail the chain.

In the comfort of my garage it's no big deal. On the road with a flat, it's already deflated for me.

Heh, and there's me leaving my rear wheel almost at the end of the dropouts all this time. Not that it makes much difference (only marginal differences re wheel base/handling/etc I'm assuming?), though I've always thought it looks a little unsightly having a cut out seat tube to accommodate it but not making use of it. Now where's my chain tool gotten to...

Leukybear, or anybody with knowledge on this. Do you see any problems with running 28s on the Venge??? It is the Pro Race with 60mm deep rims.

It's going to be a tight fit but your mileage may very as I believe your frameset is a few sizes up form mine and has different componentry.

There's 2 issues primarily in the rear. You're going to need to finesse the your rear wheel a bit more to get it past the BB shell and into the dropout.
Once it's in, it's not frame rub that gets you with fatter rubber but inner rear brake caliper rub on the top of larger tires.

The largest tire I've run on mine is only 25c which I feel is at the frame's limit.

Sounds like it is unlikely, but possible. My LBS stocks this tire, so I think I will ask them to test the rear so we can see. Thanks!

Considering forks, just how noticeable a change in steering response will be there when changing from say a 45mm to a 30mm rake?

Guys I'm torn. Which bike to get? I'm a complete noob btw.

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/5422632136.html - $240 for bidding

6KU - $200 BD
Windsor or Motobecane - $300 BD
Dawes - $230 BD

No I'm not going to buy a Kilo TT because I won't be upgrading any parts and need something better than a good frame.

What kind of parts do I need to get the 6KU/Windsor/etc to SS?

My max budget is around $300. I need the bike to give me the most complete package because I don't know how to upgrade parts nor do I want to.

Also is $75 good for someone to build my bike (if I get a bike from BD)? Or is it simple enough to do it by myself? Like are there any steps that require skill/ knowledge to get right?

Also why do some people dislike BD? Do they build the bike shoddily or what?

Thanks.

People are actually bidding each other on this piece?
Most I'd pay for that is $160 as is and that would be pushing it hard.
There is nothing special about that bike or it's componentry. Looks like it was stored outside too.
With a rusty chain like that I doubt it shifts flawlessly.

A good way to get a bike on a budget is to look for a used kilo tt, fuji feather, bianchi pista, or se fixed gear on craigslist.

I've no experience with any of the bikes you've asked about so unfortunately I can't help you in that area, but it really is worth it to learn simple mechanics. It's worth investing a little money and time on some basic tools and watching tutorial videos on Youtube to learn your way around a bike.

Putting a bike together isn't difficult, you can get to grips with it in no time. There's nothing like the feeling of fixing your own bike and spending minimum $$ in the process instead of paying an extortionate price for a shop to do it when you could've done it yourself in twenty minutes at home.

Good word! (I confess I had to look it up)

Sorry I didn't mean I didn't want to learn, just that I don't want spend money upgrading. Learning is fine. Sorry for the mistype. I actually really do want to learn about bikes and mechanics, just without spending a small fortune on it (I'm a very poor and busy college student).

I've used BD. My 29er was great, needing only minor re-assembly and some bearing adjustments. The same stuff I used to do on every new bike when I worked at a shop. Part of the savings is there isn't a shop doing the pre-ride checks. I have seen some issues on other bikes from BD that a bike shop could correct easily but a novice might be stumped.

You could probably handle putting it together by yourself, with internet/book guides as help. $75 doesn't sound terrible if it's thorough: bearings, true wheels, cable tension, chain tension. For just sliding in the seatpost and putting the wheels on, no way.

Recently installed a cheap Origin8 front rack - it attaches to the front brake caliper hole and front axle. That being said, what could cause the bike to pull to the left when I'm riding with no hands? Never has happened before. My theory is that maybe one side of the axle has the rack tightened down more than the other and it's causing a weight shift? Any other theories?