Then find any of the 13,000 threads about gear ratios posted on this forum and do some reading.

Thanks a bunch, really appreciate it.

And I have done some reading, but most of the talk gets kinda techy pretty fast.
Just thought I had a pretty straightforward question which I asked in what I thought was the most appropriate thread.

Gear Calculator

Put in your cog and chainrings that you are thinking of. It will give you gear inches to compare.

Don't mind Scrod, he's a great resource, and mostly cranky in an entertaining sort of way. I worry a little about his blood pressure, though.

I like Rabbit because as well as giving you the gear inches (and lots of stuff), the speed vs rpm chart is a table that I find particularly easy to read. Each to his own though, it could be I like Rabbit because I've been using it for years.

Huge thanks for help, fellas.

Will have a look at both the calculator greatjones suggested, as well as that Rabbit one.

I have a question, I'm wondering how to tell road geo from track geo. What angles do I look for in telling which is which and what's inbetween being track and road. I know my Surly it more towards road and I'm looking to build up a legit track bike. Just curious as to which angles I should look for so I can get the super compact geo.

In general, track geometry is characterized by relatively steep head tube and seat tube angles, forks with little rake, and higher bottom brackets. Road bikes generally have more slack angles, more rake, and lower bottom brackets. However, both sides come in wide ranges of variability depending on their intended use.

So what would the numbers typically be for a steep head and seat tube? And what number for fork rake? Thanks for the answer.

The EAI Bare Knuckle and Godzilla have true track geo. Check the charts on the RG site.

Good look my dude, perfect answer thanks.

Another tires question: Can anyone speak to the quality of Resist Nomads, as far as ride quality and durability/puncture resistance? I've been happy with Paselas as a good balance between the two, but I like to try new things. Hell, they're so cheap I might by a set just to try out.

oh i deleted it but thanks.

Bro.

Silly question but outsideoutfitters lists the gran cru bbs in threading, 1.37x24 is standard correct? Purchasing for my pake. Also the older 1" pake frames use 27.2 posts like the newer pake? Thanks

I've got them on my Leader 725. I absolutely love the way they ride but they're pretty thin and I don't think they have any type of puncture-resitant layer (if they do, I haven't seen any mention of it anywhere) and most likely won't hold up if you skid like a maniac. I've only had one flat that was caused by what looked like part of a staple.

Ah I see, probably not what I'm looking for then. Thanks.

Bought a new stem and handlebars (clamp size 31.8) and for some reason I thought my stock brake lever would fit the new handlebar.
The stock Tektro MT 2.1 fit just fine on a 25.4 handlebar, but I just couldn't get them on my new bars.


I want a "small" brake lever, hence thinking of going with Tektro RL726 (clamp size 26mm). Would that lever be an appropriate substitute for me?

Thanks.

It depends on the bar and where you are going to mount it.

anyone have any knowledge on MJ cycle quill stems? or mj products in general???

It was actually aclose call that I could force the stock brake lever on the new bar but it was too much of a difference, I guess.
The bar is an older version of the Cinelli Vai and I want to mount the brake on the top, right beside the stem clamp.

I have a trick fixed gear (grey and white) but lately I'm not doing any tricks, just want to ride around. And I do like the look of the bullhorn handlebar. So, can a trick fixed gear with trick fork has bullhorn handlebar ?. Does it look wierd ? and please give me some advices, and thanks for reading guys :).

The reason your old lever dldn't work on your new handlebar is that it is meant for flat or riser bars which are usually 22 (or is it 22.2?) mm at the ends, so trying to jam it onto drops which generally are 24mm once you are past the clamp bulge is not a great idea.

Tektro RL7xx levers come in a couple other sizes besides the one you are looking at. There is a 31.8 clamp model that can go on the bulge next to the stem if it is wide enough that the interface with the stem leaves sufficient room. If not, there is a 24.0 version to fit on a bar off the bulge which should work for you if your handlebar has typical dimensions. I actually use RL726s on my 26mm bar, butted up close to my quill stem but it will likely need a shim to work on yours.

Thanks a bunch, really helpful. Just realised I mixed things up there and thought I would need the 26 mm lever for some reason. Anyway, will put in an order right away for the correct size.

Once again, thanks for helping me out on this one!

You love researching Janky no-name parts.