why does c-t even matter
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 452
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From: San Francisco, CA
why does c-t even matter
when sizing the seat tube length for traditional (i.e. not compact geometry, not pursuit) track and ss frames?
i can't understand how this measurement even matters? it doesn't provide precise information regarding stand-over height. center-to-center is a much better indicator in my opinion. two different frames could have the same c-c, while having different c-t measurements, right?
why is c-t so popular?
i can't understand how this measurement even matters? it doesn't provide precise information regarding stand-over height. center-to-center is a much better indicator in my opinion. two different frames could have the same c-c, while having different c-t measurements, right?
why is c-t so popular?
#4
Senior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 111
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From: Manchester, UK
It measures actual seat tube length, so if you use a small frame and want an aero or fluted seatpin you might not be able to tell if it would fit, depends on extension of seat tube past the top of the top tube, if at all. On alloy and carbon frames it can be vital to know this as they have a greater extension past this joint.
#7
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 27
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When it comes to sizing ctt and ctc are irrelevant except in knowing whether or not you are going to bump your privates. Since seatposts are thick enough and strong enough now to extend 300mm and more above the seatube, the best measurement for how the bike will feel is the virtual top tube. You can raise and lower your seatube dramatically, you can even leave a threadless stem long and use spacers to add length to a head tube, but you are limited to changing the length of the cockpit by two small means, stem length or seat position, and in changing either you are signifcantly changing other parts of the ride.
But that's just me thinking.
But that's just me thinking.
#8
jack of one or two trades
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,640
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From: Suburbia, CT
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
Originally Posted by nycbikes
When it comes to sizing ctt and ctc are irrelevant except in knowing whether or not you are going to bump your privates. Since seatposts are thick enough and strong enough now to extend 300mm and more above the seatube, the best measurement for how the bike will feel is the virtual top tube. You can raise and lower your seatube dramatically, you can even leave a threadless stem long and use spacers to add length to a head tube, but you are limited to changing the length of the cockpit by two small means, stem length or seat position, and in changing either you are signifcantly changing other parts of the ride.
#9
Originally Posted by nycbikes
When it comes to sizing ctt and ctc are irrelevant except in knowing whether or not you are going to bump your privates. Since seatposts are thick enough and strong enough now to extend 300mm and more above the seatube, the best measurement for how the bike will feel is the virtual top tube. You can raise and lower your seatube dramatically, you can even leave a threadless stem long and use spacers to add length to a head tube, but you are limited to changing the length of the cockpit by two small means, stem length or seat position, and in changing either you are signifcantly changing other parts of the ride.




