Dura-Ace on the Street
#26
loves living in the city.
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I'm a daily rider and use low flange. They are really smooth and I've never had a problem. I don't service them regularly but I'm a mechanic so I know enough to pay attention to what's going on. I have a second "beater" bike that sees all the snow and salt, but I use the DAs in the rain and I've never seen water actually get inside. They are a light, fast, good-looking hub. I have a buddy who rode a pair all winter without damaging them. I'm just going by his word, but he's a mechanic too and a big guy at that.
^^^edit - anyone who knows andy(wibikeandy) knows how huge he is and by virtue of this, how much he physically abuses his stuff- this was a good enough endorsement for me.
^^^edit - anyone who knows andy(wibikeandy) knows how huge he is and by virtue of this, how much he physically abuses his stuff- this was a good enough endorsement for me.
#27
aka mattio
Originally Posted by mrRed
You can do the same with Phil as well, and it seems like you could damn near lace the wheel with poison acid laced eel spokes, 12 cross and they'd still warantee it for any type of use.
#28
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So if live in Los Angeles and repacking the hubs isn't a big deal then Suzue NJs hubs would be no problem then?
#31
works for truffles
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Originally Posted by onetwentyeight
I think you missed the joke. I'm not *that* ********. Close, but not quite.
#32
Slower than you
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Originally Posted by prodigal son
So if live in Los Angeles and repacking the hubs isn't a big deal then Suzue NJs hubs would be no problem then?
Sorry, can't say anything about duraches...
#33
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Last year I won a pair of low flange Dura ace track hubs and laced them up for my primary fixie. They saw 30-35 miles 5 days a week, virtually every day regardless of weather, throughout the winter. The cyclometer says they've seen 3714 miles. No problems. I gave the rear an overhaul at about 2200 miles but it didn't really need it.
Note that Shimano hubs come with a really crappy grease. I'd suggest you disassemble them, clean them out, and replace it with a good lithium grease or Phil grease. Also, before building a wheel they feel fine but after adding spoke tension they sometimes are a tad loose, so be sure to adjust them. Bearing maladjustment will kill your hubs faster than any kind of weather. That applies to over-cranking your track nuts as well, which will affect bearing adjustment.
If you get the high flange hubs (my current fixie pair has 8000 miles on it and one overhaul, and they're in superb shape) do use the optional seals that are supplied with the hubs. They help keep water out of the bearings. Since 7600's have dropped in price a bunch and low flanges have been creeping up, it's almost a wash. I'd buy the 7600's over the low flanges.
Also to someone's question above, I haven't tried this on the low flanges, but on 7600's you can tap out the races inside the hub and then replace them with a standard cartridge sealed bearing (got ours from Phil Wood). Just get a pair of the sealed-bearing adjustment cones (from Bicycle Research) and they run superbly. This works on old-style Campy hubs as well (Nuovo/Super/C-Record, both high and low flanges).
Note that Shimano hubs come with a really crappy grease. I'd suggest you disassemble them, clean them out, and replace it with a good lithium grease or Phil grease. Also, before building a wheel they feel fine but after adding spoke tension they sometimes are a tad loose, so be sure to adjust them. Bearing maladjustment will kill your hubs faster than any kind of weather. That applies to over-cranking your track nuts as well, which will affect bearing adjustment.
If you get the high flange hubs (my current fixie pair has 8000 miles on it and one overhaul, and they're in superb shape) do use the optional seals that are supplied with the hubs. They help keep water out of the bearings. Since 7600's have dropped in price a bunch and low flanges have been creeping up, it's almost a wash. I'd buy the 7600's over the low flanges.
Also to someone's question above, I haven't tried this on the low flanges, but on 7600's you can tap out the races inside the hub and then replace them with a standard cartridge sealed bearing (got ours from Phil Wood). Just get a pair of the sealed-bearing adjustment cones (from Bicycle Research) and they run superbly. This works on old-style Campy hubs as well (Nuovo/Super/C-Record, both high and low flanges).
#34
nothing: lasts forever
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thanks for the responses, everyone.
a very good point, and weighs heavily on the choice i will make. shimano is a juggernaut, but i also just want the least bling/most performance combination possible. tough call.
Originally Posted by mrRed
Phil, they're a small company, and I'd rather support them, so ....
#35
hateful little monkey
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Originally Posted by ink1373
thanks for the responses, everyone.
a very good point, and weighs heavily on the choice i will make. shimano is a juggernaut, but i also just want the least bling/most performance combination possible. tough call.
a very good point, and weighs heavily on the choice i will make. shimano is a juggernaut, but i also just want the least bling/most performance combination possible. tough call.
#36
nothing: lasts forever
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Originally Posted by jim-bob
Just get the phils. You know you're gonna beat the piss out of them, and you know they'll take it.
#37
iBetHeGotTheGrandPiano
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the threading on them seem to be durable. but if you did have a reservation about the threading, get a double-sided fixed. just in case there is some user error on one of the sides you'll still have a working hub.
#38
hateful little monkey
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Originally Posted by ink1373
maybe i'll wrap the centers with electrical tape so that they don't look so fancy.
#39
dances with bicycle
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Originally Posted by ink1373
maybe i'll wrap the centers with electrical tape so that they don't look so fancy.
#40
nothing: lasts forever
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Originally Posted by jim-bob
eh, just take some dulling spray to 'em and call it good. it's not like dura-ace hubs don't look expensive.
#41
hateful little monkey
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Originally Posted by ink1373
take the little logo off of the low flange DAs and hardly anyone could identify them. maybe some of us here at BF, but we're all ****ing demented.
I think you're kidding yourself if you think that the DAs aren't going to attract attention from the wrong elements.
#43
hateful little monkey
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You're overreacting. In a fit of dumbassery I locked up my holland on telegraph while I killed time at a record store. I only locked the rear wheel to a rack, and nobody even stopped and looked at the tasty phil wood / deep v front wheel that was just waiting to be plundered.
Get the phils.
(okay, to be entirely truthful, it was mcatano that locked it up, but my point is still valid.)
Get the phils.
(okay, to be entirely truthful, it was mcatano that locked it up, but my point is still valid.)
#45
Crapzeit!
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Originally Posted by jim-bob
You're overreacting. In a fit of dumbassery I locked up my holland on telegraph while I killed time at a record store. I only locked the rear wheel to a rack, and nobody even stopped and looked at the tasty phil wood / deep v front wheel that was just waiting to be plundered.
Get the phils.
(okay, to be entirely truthful, it was mcatano that locked it up, but my point is still valid.)
Get the phils.
(okay, to be entirely truthful, it was mcatano that locked it up, but my point is still valid.)
But yes, It's true. I totally Sheldoned jim-bob's Holland. I'd do it again, too.
#46
hateful little monkey
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Originally Posted by mcatano
It's funny - before I got to your parenthesis I was all, "Hey! I did that too!"
But yes, It's true. I totally Sheldoned jim-bob's Holland. I'd do it again, too.
But yes, It's true. I totally Sheldoned jim-bob's Holland. I'd do it again, too.
(it's funny that a u-lock fits both seat tube and rear wheel on the 3rensho conversion, but not on the holland tracky bike.)
#47
romper
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Originally Posted by onetwentyeight
Yes, but we're not talking about Phil.
FWIW I have a phil cog on my dura ace as they dont make dura ace cogs with enough teeth.
But its not like anything else on my drive chain matches anyway.
FWIW I have a phil cog on my dura ace as they dont make dura ace cogs with enough teeth.
But its not like anything else on my drive chain matches anyway.
now back to the dura ace's
i've ridden onetwentyeights front after a little hooptyha crash and it wasn't bad. i like phils more tho. but everyone has their opinion.
#48
LV 99 9999HP/9999MP
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DURA-ACE is awesome because of the fact that it sounds like a bad translation. Some guys I know make the Dura Achay Liberace joke, since Dura Ace are the Liberace of components (best).
#49
sushi: yum in my tum
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Originally Posted by jim-bob
Just get the phils. You know you're gonna beat the piss out of them, and you know they'll take it.
By the way, I'm not familiar with their line of hubs but do they only have one type of HF hubs? I was just looking at them from businesscycles.com and from bikeworks and they are priced differently and have different names. I was just curious...
#50
likes avocadoes
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Originally Posted by jitenshako
By the way, I'm not familiar with their line of hubs but do they only have one type of HF hubs? I was just looking at them from businesscycles.com and from bikeworks and they are priced differently and have different names. I was just curious...
They have high flange and low flange, each with options of:
1x fixed
2x fixed
1free/1fixed
standard colors are silver and black, but they occasionally do other colors, too.
HF are available in the SLR version, which has drilled out flanges for decreased weight.