Cornering on a fixed gear in traffic
#1
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Cornering on a fixed gear in traffic
I was thinking of fixing an old Schwine gas pipe 10 spd (wouldn't want it to breed) but how is a fixie going around corners? I've ridden the track on a fixed gear but never the street. I like the idea of being able to track stand at stops but does it take a lot of adjustment to get used to going around corners fast?
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Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
#2
or tarckeemoon, depending
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: the pesto of cities
Bikes: Davidson Impulse, Merckx Titanium AX, Bruce Gordon Rock & Road, Cross Check custom build, On-One Il Pomino, Shawver Cycles cross, Zion 737, Mercian Vincitore, Brompton S1L, Charge Juicer
It depends on a lot of factors (bb height, crank length, etc...), but in general it's not really a problem if you're careful and dial back your speed when necessary.
#3
conversted road bikes tend to have lower bottom brackets than track bikes. 165mm cranks and low profile pedals can help you avoid pedal strike. also, recognize that you're not gonna be able to get low around turns. at least, not as low as if you could coast through it with your inside crank at twelve o'clock.
#6
use shorter cranks (165). Pedal strike can be an issue though its nothing I've personally experienced. The most annoying part is when im close to a curb and i smack the pedal as its comming down. Thats usualyl a lowspeed, trying to sneak around a car thing. i sometimes do a little skip if i think im going to fast, or skid through a corner if im feeling a little reckless and its a route im familiar with (and know where all the potholes are)
#8
LF for the accentdeprived
Joined: May 2005
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From: Budapest, Hungary
I think a clipless pedal helps a lot by being less "thick" and lower at the edge. I don't find that my crank limits my cornering at all, even though I ride a 170 on a conversion. It does cause trouble when I overtake cars on the right... can't get the pedal over the curb because it would certainly hit. With a coastie, I'd have 5 extra inches of road to use. Oh well...
#11
I sing the body electric
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: PHL
Bikes: 2006 CrossCheck, Fuji Track 2004
Originally Posted by moki
yeah, but get your speed down before you turn. braking the front wheel through a turn is a good way to get hamburger hip.
does he have it?-------------->

no really though could you explain it?
#14
ride a frame with a decent bb height, use short (165) cranks and real track pedals with low side profiles. you won't have a problem. spend some time learning your bike, how it rides, and how to effectively corner on it. to corner tight, lean your body, not the bike.
i ride with all those things and over the last 6 years of riding fixed, have experienced bad pedal strike maybe 3 or 4 times and have only gone down once because of it.
i ride with all those things and over the last 6 years of riding fixed, have experienced bad pedal strike maybe 3 or 4 times and have only gone down once because of it.
#15
i'm gonna +1 on the pedal thing. get good, short pedals. whenever i have doubts, i just skid thru turns. if nothing else, the sound wakes everyone up. blown out two tires doing that on bad road surfaces though, so, skid/corner wisely.
#16
Zugster Bags

Joined: May 2004
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From: San Francisco, CA
Bikes: Nishiki fixed gear commuter, Trek 560 road bike
I've never struck a pedal in 14+ months of riding my conversion daily in traffic. I ride a Nishiki with 170mm cranks and Time ATAC clipless pedals - I'm sure the clipless pedals help in that regard.
The only thing I really watch out for is squeezing between vehicles and the curb, but if it's really close I just unclip one foot. I don't usually corner at high velocity though, so ymmv.
The only thing I really watch out for is squeezing between vehicles and the curb, but if it's really close I just unclip one foot. I don't usually corner at high velocity though, so ymmv.
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#17
Honking drivers see you
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: Fuji Track, KHS Witch Doctor, Balance AL 750, Tank Mod Trials Bike
Originally Posted by Jerseysbest
thats why I ride a SS, I corner way to tight...
To the OP: I have a gaspipe Schwinn that I converted. I put some 165mm cranks on it. Chainline's not perfect, but it's okay. cornering is no problem, it's very stable because of the geometry. It used to be a 27"er, but now I'm running 700C. It not bad. It's my on-call-bad-weather fixie.
#18
Tiocfáidh ár Lá

Joined: Dec 2003
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From: The edge of b#
Bikes: A whole bunch-a bikes.
I can only remember hitting pedals twice and once was on my road bike in a criterium. My current fixed gear has 170mm cranks and spd pedals and I've never hit. You just need to learn your bikes dimensions and go with it. Also you can get away with leaning into turns while holding the bike more upright too. I learned that trick from muddy cyclocross racing. If you have to make really tight low speed turns (like in a parking lot) you can turn harder on the pedal up stroke and come back to level on the down strokes.
#19
don't pedal backwards...
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Minneapolis
Bikes: Surly Long Haul Trucker set up for commuting and loaded touring, old Sekine road frame converted to fixed-gear, various beaters and weird bikes, waiting on the frame for my Surly Big Dummy build
Originally Posted by celephaiz
interesting term then... i don't get it. Having done it myself and seen others do it, never resembled hamburgers

It makes your hip/side/elbow look more like this:
#20
Barbieri Telefonico
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Bikes: Crappy but operational secondhand Motobecane Messenger
I ride an old conversion in traffic and also on club rides. I run 175 mm pedals and I corner as sharp as needed without pedal strike.
Anyhow ... you are riding on traffic and you should know that you need to take the corners a little easier than in the track.
36 spoke wheels and 25 mm tires are satisfactory going over nasty railroad tracks, rough pavement, some cobblestone, some gravel.
Anyhow ... you are riding on traffic and you should know that you need to take the corners a little easier than in the track.
36 spoke wheels and 25 mm tires are satisfactory going over nasty railroad tracks, rough pavement, some cobblestone, some gravel.
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#21
live free or die trying
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From: where i lay my head is home.
Bikes: bianchi pista workhorse, cannondale r1000, mountain bike fixed conversion
with fixed, it's really easy to backpedal and adjust your speed as necessary. you can dial it right in as you're turning. you don't want to brake while turning, especially not with only a front brake...as mentioned. but...yeah. you can adjust speed on a fixed while turning. make sure your gear ratio is right, too...if you have to skid into a turn, you may be just as much at risk of eating **** as you would if you leaned too far.
#22
Thread Starter
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Thanks all. I think I may be getting the fixie bug, hope its not terminal!
__________________
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
#23
Originally Posted by MacG
It doesn't make your hip/side/elbow look like this:
It makes your hip/side/elbow look more like this:

It makes your hip/side/elbow look more like this:

WTF is that? That looks more like canned cranberry jelly stuff or pickled beets than ground beef. So yeah, pickled beet hip.
#24
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Boston
I have experienced a few pedal strikes around corners but I have not fallen because of it yet. i just switched to 165 cranks and i actually struck today, its scary but I think that it can be easily avoided.
#25
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From: SoCal - 909
Bikes: IRO Jamie Roy (fixed-gear commuter), Gary Fisher Rig 29er SS, Trek Madone 5.5, Specialized Allez Comp, Marin Mt. Vision Pro, Specialized M2 Hardtail, beater Nishiki fixed-gear conversion, Gary Fisher Rig 29er SS
Originally Posted by noriel
Hahaha! That reminds me of when I rode my wife's gearie to work one day and thought, "wow, I can really lean this biotch over!." I did, but I skidded the back on the plastic they lay down for crosswalks. Good times, I couldn't believe how slowly and smoothly I was going down with the ship!
To the OP: I have a gaspipe Schwinn that I converted. I put some 165mm cranks on it. Chainline's not perfect, but it's okay. cornering is no problem, it's very stable because of the geometry. It used to be a 27"er, but now I'm running 700C. It not bad. It's my on-call-bad-weather fixie.
To the OP: I have a gaspipe Schwinn that I converted. I put some 165mm cranks on it. Chainline's not perfect, but it's okay. cornering is no problem, it's very stable because of the geometry. It used to be a 27"er, but now I'm running 700C. It not bad. It's my on-call-bad-weather fixie.
I too have a 27"er gaspipe conversion (Nishiki, in my case.). It's got pretty crappy cornering clearance, and I've had to adjust my riding style accordingly.
Fortunately, it's just my bar-bike/grocery getter. For riding fixed any furher than a few miles, or at faster than leisurely cruising speeds, commuting, for instance, I opt for the IRO.
-Trevor




