Chainring very close to chainstay on FG...
#1
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: NYC - Manhattan
Bikes: Fuji Pro 2003, Ross converted fixie, Dahon Speed D7, Raleigh C30, junkie road bike
Chainring very close to chainstay on FG...
I recently bough a fixed gear bike off eBay which is a Ross road bike turned fixed. The problem is that even though the bottom bracket is 68x122 (meaning the longest one I can possibly find), the chainring still comes VERY close to the chainstay. The cranks are Sugino GS. My first thought would be to get a longer bottom bracket but I can't imagine any exist. How should I solve the problem? Thanks.
#7
Originally Posted by bsyptak
You could also put a washer(s) between the crank and the BB before you tighten it on. That'll move it out a bit.
#10
I have 1mm between my 48t chainring and chainstay. I worried about it for a couple days, but after climbing some big hills and not having any interference, I don't worry anymore. If the chainline is good and you don't want a bigger chainring, then be happy. If you want to change something, here are a few ideas.
Shimano does make a 127.5mm BB. I have one on my SS MTB conversion. It was neccessary because of the awkward combination of BMX cranks and Surly SS hub.
Do you have your chainring on the inside or outside position on the crank spider? If it's on the inside, you could move it to the outside to fix any issue with chainline or chainstay interference.
If the chainline is good, but this close fit still bugs you, just use a smaller chainring and smaller cog that give the same gear ratio.
Shimano does make a 127.5mm BB. I have one on my SS MTB conversion. It was neccessary because of the awkward combination of BMX cranks and Surly SS hub.
Do you have your chainring on the inside or outside position on the crank spider? If it's on the inside, you could move it to the outside to fix any issue with chainline or chainstay interference.
If the chainline is good, but this close fit still bugs you, just use a smaller chainring and smaller cog that give the same gear ratio.
#11
this bike is an aqueduct

Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,073
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From: Gainesville, FL
Bikes: Villin custom touring, Medici Pro Pista, KHS Alite1000, Windsor fixed commuter
Yeah, I wouldn't worry much. If it's a BIG road frame with a larger rear triangle you MIGHT get enough flex if you were torque'n the living hell out of it. Maybe.
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Villin custom touring | Raleigh XXIX | Medici Pro Pista | 1978 Schwinn Stingray
Villin custom touring | Raleigh XXIX | Medici Pro Pista | 1978 Schwinn Stingray
#13
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From: Washington DC
#14
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 56
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From: NYC - Manhattan
Bikes: Fuji Pro 2003, Ross converted fixie, Dahon Speed D7, Raleigh C30, junkie road bike
Thanks for the link, that looks good. And all of you guys are making me feel better about my situation because it can't be less than a 1mm gap which is what a lot of you have said you have.
#16
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Trek 2000
Its not the best solution, but its the easiest. If its a steel frame, just wack the chain stay with the edge of the hammer. It'll give you another couple of mm of clearance and it wont hurt your frame other than just putting a small dent in it.
#17
Originally Posted by craigery
Its not the best solution, but its the easiest. If its a steel frame, just wack the chain stay with the edge of the hammer. It'll give you another couple of mm of clearance and it wont hurt your frame other than just putting a small dent in it.





