pedal technique
#27
fuelled by vodka
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: London
Bikes: Serotta Nove, Bob Jackson Pista, Cannondale CAA8
Originally Posted by strife
Recently I have found that I am riding a little toe in. I have been trying to correct this but all I seem to end up with are numb toes, particularly the last two. This is shying me away from clipless pedals, any suggestions??
There is normally enough travel in the fitting of the cleats to the shoes to allow you to correctly position the alignment. A small twist in the cleat direction (a few degrees) results in a big change in the overall direction of the shoe, and therefore your toe.
Cleats are also usually reversible from left to right shoe, and the net result of doing this is that you can gain or lose 1 cm in and out... er, hard to explain, but the holes for cleat attachment are not set dead evenly, they are set to one side of the cleat... so when you have a cleat on the left shoe the shoe center is closer to the crank, and put the same cleat on the right shoe and the shoe center is further from the crank. Thus you are able to adjust the alignment of your foot left to right so that you aren't having to twist your foot inwards (or outwards) on any part of the stroke.
The key things with cleat alignment:
- Ensure the cleat is fitted so that the ball of your foot is aligned with the crank hole (there's probably a name for that which I don't know).
- Ensure that there is no twist in your foot throughout the stroke.
- Ensure that your knee is a hinge and not a ball socket.
The first two you can get by playing around, the last one is much harder. But if you can set up your bike on some rollers or a power trainer, then jump on board and have someone shine a very thin narrow light straight down your knee... start pedalling, and that light should *not* be moving left to right... it should stay dead straight on your knee throughout the pedal stroke.
If you do find that you're twisting slightly and causing the light to move side to side, then you can use shims between the cleat and shoe to correct this... you want to shim at an angle so that the twist is eradicated... let me find you a picture of this.... actually scrap that, there's a better explanation over here: https://www.cyclefit.co.uk/lewedge.htm
#29
Arizona Dessert

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 15,029
Likes: 2,170
From: AZ
Bikes: Cannondale SuperSix, Lemond Poprad. Retired: Jamis Sputnik, Centurion LeMans Fixed, Diamond Back ascent ex
Originally Posted by marqueemoon
Get up for the downstroke. Everybody get up.
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hey ankling is good but I find if I think about it too much I get too jerky and inefficient which leads to joint problems. So I do what I did when I ran cross-country/track of imagining my joints moving in circles which does wonders for my form and efficiency. I end up going super fast and when I try to concentrate on bumping up my speed I just end up feeling frustrated at how slow I am going and make jerky movements rather than efficient ones which just makes things worse.
#31
Banned
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,317
Likes: 0
From: GA
Originally Posted by shishi
Any input would actually be very helpful. My toes do go numb after about an hour or so in the saddle with road shoes w/ cleats, cages and staps.
Are you using lace up shoes?
-loosen the shoe or skip some of the eyelets.
-get modern shoes and pedals.
Out of curiosity why are you riding with clips and cleats for over an hour? The only reason I can think thayt justifies thier use is if you are a massively strong dude doing match sprints. If you are worried about your feet coming out get some spd-rs. You can add straps to them for sprints if you really need it but I would be amazed if you can pull out of them with the tension all the way up.





