Retem

rock on i am looking into a couple machines as of late there are a few old dress shops and bag makers (hand bags and the like) here in town that sell old equipment on occasion
my list of wants are as follows
walking foot straight stitch machine
2- needle binder
zig zag machine or tajima 4-needle embroidery machine with boundless head can't quite pick which yet it might be a worthwhile investment to get an embroidery machine then I could do work for you guys ya know just sen me the fabric or give me the dimensions I cut it embroider it and you make a bag

Fugazi Dave

Old thread, but worth reviving. I just picked up a sewing machine. What can those in the know tell me about thread? Assume I know nothing and that I'll be sewing standard bag-related materials.

Jenkinsal2

I just picked up an old brother from my grandma after she upgraded. The first thing I would reccomend doing is finding the correct way to thread your machine and then see if you can pick up the lower thread from the bobbin. If your tensions are adjusted already you should be able to play around with some scrap.

c0urt

i use synthetic heavy duty upholstery thread on all places that are load bearing or cant be seen. and dual duty all purpose thread most other places

try to remember like with like. so synthetic with corudura and other nylons, and natural with cottons like duck.

Suggested needles: Jeans 110/18

FlippingHades

What you want is called "bonded nylon" thread. It's multiple strands of nylon wrapped around a monofilament core, with a bonding agent added to keep it all together and add strength (this also makes it easier to sew with). Bonded polyester has very similar strength characteristics and better ultraviolet resistance, but I've personally found that it doesn't sew nearly as well as nylon does; bonded nylon is what most of the outdoor gear industry seams [sic] to use.

It comes in a variety of weights -- the mostly commonly used is T-69 (sometimes called T-70, or its' military designation, 'E'). This is a great all around weight, and I use it the majority of seams in my bags. It is, generally speaking, the heaviest thread you can use in a home sewing machine, and the lightest you want to use for load-bearing creations. The next up is T-92 (aka T-90 or 'F') which is a pretty bullet-proof weight for anything that's going to hold a lot of weight (it's actually probably overkill for most stuff ).

I've purchased a lot of thread through https://www.thethreadexchange.com and generally been very happy with the results, plus they carry a lot of colors. They also carry a vinyl tape under the name "Hugo's Amazing Tape", which is incredibly useful for wrapping around a cone of thread for storage, to keep the loose end from unraveling. I also use it for securing rolls of fabric and collections of cut pieces for bags-in-progress.

Fugazi Dave

Good stuff. I'm really looking forward to putting **** together now that I actually have a machine. My big ol' pile of sketches might actually turn into something now.

FlippingHades

Anytime. Can't wait to see what you come up with :-)

Now I feel like I ought to update this post with what I'm using now, since it's been nearly a year since I got rid of the Sailrite referenced on the first page.

DeafLamb

I'm bumping this thread up because I'm kinda interested in what your using now? Right now I'm using an old juki zig-zag home machine with no walking foot. Its fine for the apleque but i'm considering investing in an industrial quality straight stitch for bag construction. Going through multiple layers of cordura an 18oz vinyl is just too much for my little machine.

Do you think your sailrite would be decent for this? Why did you switch to the juki? Which juki are you using...blah blah blah. Basically what is a good machine for someone who is thinking about starting to sell bags, but doesn't have a lot of capitol to invest in a machine.

thanks

-ray

Retem

1. thread size I just use t-90
2. adams machine he has a walking foot juki industrial straight stitch he got rid of the sailrite because xxx I dunno arm length
3. any industrial machine with decent inner workings should do the advantages of a walking foot machine is a more even stitch on thicker harder to manage bits like strap pads and the very edges of the bag

blickblocks

I just sorted out my new Consew, I got it all working and I'm just starting to get a feel for it. It's not a walking foot, it's just a basic machine made for tailoring. I was berated a bit by a local machine shop guy (for about 45 minutes) for not buying a proper walking foot. I only spent $250, and really since I need fabric and everything I can't spend any more.

It has a 1725 RPM motor which supposedly is a good speed for making bags, but I feel that it's way too fast for me right now. I set it up with some #18 needles and #69 Nylon thread, which I was told was the largest pair I could use with this machine. I'm going to start off making hip packs with a pretty basic design. I might even just go buy some belts from a thrift store for the waist belt, I think it could be fun.

c0urt

at least you have a mac :-P

I do wish I had space for a table right now
I am actually using one of singers higher end quilting machines.
it has a walking foot it just was not on in that pic.

it sew cordura well. and handles tubular webbing with ease

blickblocks

What is tubular webbing?

I'm imagining gluing tubulars onto a messenger bag, but I don't think that's it.

c0urt

seatbelt webbing is typically flat webbing

if you were to take a tube of that almost and press it flat and sew it up the middle you would have tubular webbing.
it is stronger and thicker.

c0urt

personal opinion it is a little softer against the skin and it doesnt stretch as much when wet the way flat nylon webbing does.
depending on where you get it from it cost the same as normal webbing, but a lot of places up charge for it.

Straws

Tubular webbing is great stuff.

SpiderMike

I too just got a machine to start making caps that fit my big head. Thanks for all the useful information.

Any suggestions on good roller cutters?

Retem

the key word here is nylon nylon does stretch when wet however polypro doesn't

c0urt

+1

nylon will not stay tight in strap adjusters when wet either. and your bag will come flying from around your shoulders

Fugazi Dave

The new (to me) Viking. This is going to be fun.

blickblocks

How are you guys getting by with those home-use sewing machines? I broke needles on a nice Bernina trying to go through webbing.

FlippingHades

I now use a Juki DNU-1541-S. Click here for lots of photos


Yes, the sailrite is just fine for bag construction, although there may be places you have to hand-crank it through particularly thick assemblies. Before I switched to a floating liner, I had to hand-crank it through the inside corners.

If I'd known beforehand that Zugster Bags would be as successful as it's been, I'd have gone straight to the Juki -- it's just a world apart. It's not just a walking feet -- it's a compound feed, which means the needle moves along with the presser foot, which produces neater, tighter stitching, and vastly reduces the chance of the needle accidentally striking the hook. It is, however, not cheap.

c0urt

what kinda of needles are you using.

and i havent broken a needle in a while. but of course now that I said that.

blickblocks

FlippingHades, I asked the machine shop guy here about the Sailrites and he suggested I stay far away from them. For the same price as a Sailrite he was selling some full size walking foot which he said would be a lot better ($975 complete). How much was your Juki?

asherlighn

this thread roccks

shants

If you are going to use a consumer grade sewing machine for bag construction, I would recommend learning how to adjust (and fix) your machine's timing. You'll knock it out of whack fairly quickly when sewing through several layers of cordura.