Boss Moniker

Hey there, for my fixie build I'm interesting in minimizing ride noise, so I had several questions and was hoping for some tips. I am concerned because after replacing my chain, chainring and sprockets on my Cannondale R500, it was nice and quiet for about 30 miles, then got kind of loud. And I don't really know why.

1/8" or 3/32" chain width? I (sort-of) have the option of going either way, and was wondering if either chain width was inherently noisier. I would suspect that the 3/32" would be (if you were comparing like models and brands) because it is slightly more flexible, and more forgiving of a crooked chainline. Which brings me to my next question.

Does 2mm difference in chainline make a difference? Because my swaged-on chainring with my cup-and-cone type bottom bracket yields a chainline of about 40mm, and although I am not certain, Formula hubs probably have a minimum chainline of 42 (which is pretty standard, right?)

Does lubrication of a chain make it quieter? If so, what lubes, and what application schedule?

Which chains have you found to be the most quiet? I've heard that Wipperman's are generally the loudest.

Any other general tips? Something I'm missing? Thanks!

DoshKel

What I have gathered:

1/8 components are noisy. All mine have been. 3/32 will be less noisy.
Lube will reduce noise. I suggest white lightning lube.
NEVER ride a shadow conspiracy as they are the master of noise (not that you do... just putting it out there).
Check cog wear, BB wear and your chanring bolts.

Hope this helps.

hyperRevue

For the record, both of my 1/8 drivetrains are silent.

dutret

OS aluminum tubing is not a good choice for silence.

DoshKel

Boss Moniker

Wow this place moves fast, I'm used to forums with less users. Thanks for the tips, I have heard White Lighting is the best choice before, so I will be getting some soon. And it's good to hear 3/32" is usually quieter (I'm sure it depends moreso on your chainline, 1/8" chains are usually stiffer, making for (probably) a more secure drive train, and a bit more efficient power transfer). Here's the deal:

I have a steel cranset, for standard square-taper spindles, and it had swaged to it (non-removable) a very large (52 or so) chainring and a bashguard. Riveted to the big chainring was a smaller 40 tooth chainring. They both were for a 3/32" chain. I cut off the outer chainring and the bashguard, and interestingly, the rivets for the smaller one are in a 110 BCD pattern, meaning I could probably get a new chainring if I needed it. Currently it yields a 40mm or so chainline, and I am worried that I can't make it very straight with a Formula sealed cartridge bearing hub, which probably has a chainline of 42mm. Is it worth it to get a new spindle (for a cup and cone type BB) that's 2mm longer on the right side? I don't even know for sure the chainline of the Formula hub (it's in the mail). Any tips? Maybe I should get a new BB and crankset, plus a chainring so I can use spacers like normal people .

hyperRevue

Yes.
Get a new BB and crankset.

Boss Moniker

Ugh, this little fixie project is turning into a money sink. Any idea where I could get a BB and 165mm crankset (sealed cartidge?) for less than $75? I have the standard 68mm shell/ English Threads, whatever.

Also, still looking for tips on reducing noise. Thanks!

thurstonboise

fact. Sack up or pay up. It kind of sucks.

jhowell

well........when my wife hears funny noises in the car she just turns up the stereo - works every time.

i know this helps.

Boss Moniker

Haha, that doesn't sound dangerous at all! Especially on a bike. Maybe I'll just sing really loud. So new question: would opera or folk mask the sound better ?

Still looking for cranks and BB.. I did do some research a while back, but couldn't find much that fit my criteria.

hyperRevue

Shimano UN71 BB with Sugino RD cranks (or bulletproof cranks)

Boss Moniker

Hey, those were exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a lot, hyper.

Any more noise tips anyone? What kind of chains do you find to be the quietest?

hyperRevue

Start with a dialed in chainline and take it from there.

Boss Moniker

Meaning what, just keep the hub where it is and don't use spacers on the chainring? I can easily measure my chainline to make adjustments.

hyperRevue

I thought you were 2mm off right now.
I meant, get the new BB and hub and get a straight chainline before you worry about other things that may be causing noise.

Boss Moniker

Oh thanks, right I am about 2mm off if I was to keep my current setup (once my wheels arrive). Well I don't even know what is going to be causing noise later on because this build hasn't yet been ridden, and I don't have any parts for the drivetrain as of now, if I were to go with a new BB and Crankset. But that is good advice, most other noise considerations would be useless without a straight chainline.

Thing is, I'm probably going to be buying all of these parts at once (cog, cranks, bottom bracket, chain), and I'm looking for suggestions on the quietest chain and other parts so I don't have to do trial and error. Also, other considerations people have found helpful would help me. Man, Hyper and all of you are incredibly helpful. Thanks a ton!

hyperRevue

I don't recall any particular chain being more quiet than others.
I've used Izumis and liked them.
But now just use cheap 1/8 inch KMC chains

GirlAnachronism

Don't worry so much about some potentital noise that might happen somewhere in the future. Just build it right, ride it and enjoy it.

jhowell

doood - gotta go with opera. unless you rock the new main street singers. parker posie's hot.

oh ya - sorry for ignoring the actual question - i'm in a mood today. just havin' some fun. i'm willing to bet chainline's the answer.

mascher

Surprised nobody's mentioned it yet - oil lubes are much more quiet than wax-based ones like white lightning et al. Phil's Tenacious Oil lasts long and is the most quiet thing I've used on a chain, geared or fixed, 3/32 or 1/8.

The downside is it picks up dirt much more and much more easily.

I also find that 3/32 stuff is quieter, but I've only used 2 of them vs one 1/8 setup, so inconclusive.

Retem

from ecxperience 3/32" tends to be a little quieter......yes do lube your chain it will keep it quit if it is dry it will make lotsa noise....use a good thick grease lithium works well because it is water and heat resistent....... and chain line will make a huge difference if you have proper chainline the chain will sit right n the cog and chainring = less noise ....... proper chain tension and a good quality chainring can also reduce noise ..... good quality chaingrings end up being stiffer and more cround than cheap ones ........ that means even chain tension and no flexing of chain ring wabble wabble

Boss Moniker

Ah, alright so lube is the answer. I think I used some Tenacious Oil before on my road bike, but the quiet didn't last long (like 10 miles). Maybe the chain had some junk in it, even though it was a brand new Shimano chain.


In response to GirlAnachronism, you're right that I'm worrying too much about certain details, but the quietness of fixed gears is one of the main reasons I want to build one. So I want to get the right components before I find out that I've wasted $50 on a chain, or even worse $150 on a 1/8" drivetrain.

As for the chains, I'm thinking I might get a KMC, and the blue colored one interests me, but I can't seem to find it in 3/32". Anyone have any resources?

Retem

danscomp.com bmx supplier but its the same chain they even sell half links

schnee

I'm not experienced enough to give you advice, but don't ever apologize for wanting things right. There's nothing worse than spending a lot of time and money to get a new toy, and have some annoying defect that ruins the fun. I had a similar issue with my chainline/noise, and I spent the time with my LBS to sort it out completely. The bike runs ninja-silent now, and I'm deleriously happy with the results.