Flip + chopped bars w/ pictures comming tonight or tomarrow.

this is more of a figure it out yourself (fioy?) but i'd nominate Fraction's skid patch theorem for calculating skid patches, both one foot and ambiskidding.

Not to steal queerpunk's thunder but ....

I wrote a pedal rebuild guide sometime ago.
They're not for MKS's but it should apply to most rebuildable pedals.

http://legacy.closednode.net/images/...s/DMR-V8-3.jpg

More Pics included.
http://legacy.closednode.net/reactio...ies.php?id=432

I think the combination of the two guides should produce satisfactory results.

Hey why not put macg's ssfg-specific gear inch calculator up there? It rocks and it's better than Sheldon's (which always gets linked to on this forum) for ssfg applications.

http://www.basementfreaks.com/members/karl/gearing/

As well, how about a bit on removing braze-ons? A search brings up ~ fifteen threads all roughly equivalent. This thread has pretty much all the relevant info (including what to do with Al frames), plus the standard BF caveat (if you do it to a frame that anyone would actually want to ride, God will punish you).

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=183431

Shameless self promo-Frames: How to install DIY track ends. Pics, writeup and everything.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ighlight=track

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...sasbike009.jpg

Added a few more. Thanks!

This site/gear calculator/program rocks:

http://eehouse.org/fixin/index.php

I also believe there is a free downloadable program on the site to.

i bought this: http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php

helped soooo much. first wheel build problem free. still rollin' true after a year and a half of philly street abuse.

I'm de-anodising and polishing a quill stem today. Will take pics if anyone is intersted.

Edit: Done. Will upload pics tomorrow as I don't have my DL lead right now.

^ do it.

please do.

it would be hot if someone here had the skinny on home anodizing. i know some car/motorcycle buffs do this kind of thing. i think it still costs about as much as powdercoat tho.

De-anodising (anodizing - for the stateside) and polishing a Cinelli quill stem
(or any other aluminium (aluminum - as before) part)
The [165] with-beer method.

Tools
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a375/landres/1.jpg

Beer. (Weird one my girls dad had. MVP?)
Oven cleaner. (Sodium Hydroxide is the chemical you need I believe)
Fine grade wet'n'dry paper. (This was 1200 grit.)
Cup of water for the wet'n'dry.
Your aluminium part. (Disassembled as much as possible)
Metal polish cream. (Not pictured sorry. Mine was Autosol)
2 Cotton rags. (Old pyjamas pictured)
Old bucket or tray. (For the oven cleaner)

This stem was bought off Ebay and was a little shabby. Few knocks and scratches and
generally dull looking with it's factory anodise.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a375/landres/2.jpg

Step 1
Remove all parts/bolts and put part to be de-anodised in an old bucket/tray.
Spray on oven cleaner making sure not to get it on you or in your lungs.
A good coating helps. I don't think you can have too much. I had to turn
the stem with a stick to get at all the sides. Leave it for 10-15 minutes and have some ale.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a375/landres/3.jpg

Step 2
Rinse off all the cleaner a couple of times before you touch the part.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a375/landres/4.jpg
The part should be dull all over. If there are still spots of anodise, hit it again.

Step 3
Use the wet'n'dry to sand out any deep scratches, a general all-over rub works well at getting a
smooth surface. Avoid sanding any logos/pantographs if you care. The part should now look like this.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a375/landres/5.jpg

Step 4
Here is where the rubbing begins. You might need more beer. I did.
The method I find works best is to wrap an index finger in cotton cloth and apply a small blob of
metal polish cream to the fingertip. Rub the part like crazy all over for as long as you can bare.
Then get a clean rag (your 'dry' rag) and buff the polish off. The more times you repeat these
steps the more mirror-like the finish. I actually find it really satisfying but beer does help.

Bling
Your new shiny part.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a375/landres/6.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a375/landres/7.jpg

Hope this helps. I tried using a dremel on a Campy Aero post a few weeks ago and find this method works better.
Now I just need the rest of the bike! Pics when finished.

Cheers.
JOL

Hmm, I could see myself doing that to my whole mountain bike this summer. Nice work!

HOLY S H I T! i keep learning great things off of this forum!

Did it get that dullish anodized look before it got to that chrome-like point? I'm not a big fan of shiny stuff and prefer the dull look.

BTW, I think the disc hub conversion should be on the first page as well.
Or either of these too:FGG dischub and 63XC dischub

Yeah after the wet'n'dry looks kind of like brushed aluminium. Not a totally uniform finish though and possibly hard to seal. Forgot to mention I think it should be waxed after to preserve the shine.

if you wax the stem afterwards (i'm assuming you use automotive wax) does it need to be repolished from time to time?

I don't have any personal knowledge of this but have heard it dulls with time. Wax will help slow this.

Not wax, metal polish. It's usually silicone based and keeps things blingy.
Ammonia takes care of the dullish oxidation too.

oilcloth strap doubler and plastic placemat mudflap

http://velospace.org/files/strapdoublermudflapweb.jpg

Yeah, hand polishing is waaaay better than a dremel. BUT, the dremel is good for getting some of the dings and deeper scratches out before going to wet/dry. With a fine or med grade wheel you can get them out pretty quick, you just have to be careful not to hold it too long in one place.

Thanks, but dude this isn't much of a DIY. It's just a pic of your pedal. Can we get some detailed pics with step-by-step instructions?

how do you guys remove headset cups without this? and without damaging the steerer tube?
http://www.nashbar.com/nashbar_photos/medium/PT-RT1.gif

that wouln't be hard to fabricate yourself.