My snow tires are going to a new owner, but I thought I'd post some pics in this thread
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/158/3...2702fda9b7.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/135/3...343d7295cb.jpg
You will need;
-some old cyclo cross tires (e.g. 700X35 Michelin knobbies, free from my LBS).
-500-1000 wood screws. I used 1/4", which I had to special order
(Hillman wood screws size: 4 X 1/4 item no.10062).
-A drill or Dremel.
-A screw driver.
-Used road tires of the same diameter but narrower width (e.g. 700X23)
-Box cutter knife.
-Several hours, lots of beer and a stack of recrds.

I drilled holes through the knobs where I wanted the studs (wood screws) to go. The tire had to be turned inside-out. I think there were 250-275 holes I drilled per tire. This is fairly light weight, some people use ~500 per tire.

Screw in your wood screws.

Take your road tires, and cut off the bead with the box cutter. Go slowly, and be careful not to cut into the tread part. Then cut the tire so that it is still one long strip.

Line the snow tire with the cut up road tire.

Install on rims, inflate and ride.

*I was able to install these tire on a 2005 Bianchi Pista, so 700X35 isn't too big.
*You can use 1/2" screws with great success.
*Tubless tires used as a regular tube on a clincher rim work well instead of cutting up tires to make liners too.

brilliant that's gonna save me some cash, thx!

Home made Lava Soap or Gojo type stuff:

Dish soap + Sugar
(just pour the sugar on top of the soap when you're washing)

It's pretty stupid and simple, but I put on a new chain today and thought of this thread while cleaning my hands in my "silly" way.

I will definitely remember this. Thanks!

Dish soap and sugar, when applied to a splinter that you can't get out and left to sit under a band aid for 8 hours or so will also help to draw the splinter out. No more digging like a madman.

Thanks mom!

I was really hung over one day and didn't want to leave the house, so I made a hip pouch. It's made of two layers of nylon that i tested and determined were waterproof.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_0210.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_0208.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_0209.jpg

^^ That's cool Andy but a more idiot proof step by step series of photos is better for this thread. This advice is more for people posting in this thread in the future than for you, but if you want to take apart and reassemble your bag while taking meticulous photos please do. :)

I prefer dish soap and sand, less problems of disolving / stickness, more abrasive and gives women the impression that you are rugged with your rough hands.

A step by step may be hard, especially for those not inclined to sewing. I figured I can help if anyone has questions. Feel free to hit me up.

I also didn;t realise this was for tips, I thought it was the same as the old one in which you just show off stuff you made yourself.

the thread's called Do It Yourself, not Did It Yourself...show me how to sew my own fannypack!

Show me how to drink a 12 pack!

You got it. It's a simple process: open beer, drink and repeat...12 times in fact! I'll show you tonight if you'd like ;)

has anyone made the headset cup remover?

http://www.kctools.com.au/images/TOO...R%20MALLET.jpg

And easiest thing to use is one (or two) pieces of a medium density wood (like MDF, no hardwoods but wtf'd use them for this anyway). Cut a slot a slightly bigger width than the head tube, but narrower than the headset cups. Its bes to put foam around the bottom of the slot , and bevel the edges so it doesn't scratch your headset, I used a cloth. Then, just lean on one side and hit the other side at the same time so its one movement (otherwise the board would kick up and hit you or your frame). Worked for me, dunno how you'll go.

Anyone have a link to somewhere explaining how to overhaul hubs w/ pics? Found one website so now I have a bit of an idea what I'm going to need to do but it looks like I can just do it all at home w/ no special bike tools needed... Just grease and solvent.

Park Tool's page is nice. The hardest part will be having the proper amount of tension after assembling, it's something you need to do until you get a feel for it, and after that, it's easy as pie.

Sure man, this comes out nice from and old aluminium seatpost using a hacksaw. Many kind of tubes will do also. Take a look how a park tool is sawed and you get the idea! -> http://www.parktool.com/images/produ...5729_84414.jpg You might have to file the ends a little to get em sharp enough especially with steel headset cups, those having very little edges to hammer.

Edit: well, comes out with a hacksaw but takes some nerves, I ended up using electrical saw made for sawing holes on wood etc!

You're right its actually really easy. I found that even if an old wheel is very fubar it still isn't rocket science. Just be sure you know which way is tightening, which is loosening. Also use a good spoke wrench. The first time I did this I used a real cheap wrench that has 12 or so different sizes. The smallest size was not small enough for the nipples. This meant that I rounded many of them. If I remember right, you would turn your spoke wrench counterclockwise. Here's a step by step

1. Check the wheel, make sure it seems to be in good structural shape. Make sure no spokes are broke, might as well check the hub.
2. Especially on an old wheel. put a small drop of thin oil (transmission fluid or some all purpose lubricant) on each spoke. spin the wheel so that the oil goes into the nipple threads. This step is to prevent the spoke from braking or stripping.
3. If you don't have a trueing stand (I don't) put the wheel on the bike and turn the bike over. If you have a brake tighten the brake so that it barely touches the wheel. If there's no brake, you can clamp something to the fork/seat stay that sticks out. You could even do something crude like rubber banding a pen (with cap on) to the bike. Adjust it so that it barely touches the rim. (the easiest way to detect it is to listen for when the wheel is rubbing.)
4. Spin the wheel. In the spot where it hits the pen/brake/whatever, tighten the spoke on the opposite side. Also note that if you have to make significant changes, you will likely need to loosen the other spoke. For example, if the wheel is wobbly to the right, you would tighten the left spoke and loosen the right. Only make small changes, half a turn at a time.
5. After the correction, spin the wheel. If it still rubs, do it again. If it rubs somewhere else on the wheel, do it there.
6. After the wheel doesn't rub, tighten the brake or move the pen closer, Repeat previous steps.
7. Keep doing this until the wheel is true.
8. Adjust the brake back to normal, or remove the pen.

To redish the wheel, maybe to improve chainline or to use a "suicide" hub. loosen all the spokes on one side one turn, tighten all the spokes on the opposite one turn. This will move the whole rim a small amount. Then true the wheel as desribed. If it needs to go over more, do it again.

Hope this helps, it really isn't that hard. Sorry I don't have any pics. If nobody else posts some, I can probably add some tommorrow night. I don't think my wheels need it, but I can demonstrate anyway.

^^ a good if obvious tip if you have a spoke wrench with more than one size is to mark it where it's the right size. this will help to prevent your going insane.

thats a great step by step, doesnt sound so daunting anymore... thanks for the walkthrough.
(100% serious, didnt want to quote the entire response)

Does anyone know How to fix a chipped spinergy (rev X)? I ran into another biker and got it caught up in their back skewer. there are now 4 chips on two of the spokes. I used gorilla glue to strengthen the chips so they don't flake away. Is there anyone who has successfully repaired a spinergy and rode it? If so I would feel more confident riding mine.

thanks

Zach

I have the feeling you won't get many affirming responses...there are many on this board who feel that factory-fresh spinergys are unacceptably dangerous and failure-prone

I have nothing to add other than this hint of foreboding.

Ok what would be another option for a front wheel then? I would like to stick with CF, but I don't want it to crap out like the spinergy. My buddy just got an aerospoke. It looks pretty solid but heavy.

any suggestions?

yes, i did. this was in the tools thread.
http://static.flickr.com/91/248384640_b5714ec55c_o.jpg

I've repaired one that had one of the blades completely severed. Just laid it up with a few fresh layers of carbon and epoxy while holding it in place with a jig. I never rode it myself, but I haven't heard any news that it broke yet!
Still, probably not the safest thing you could think up.

can you direct me to a website where I could buy the epoxy and carbon? Any other tips would help.

thanks!

Supplies
Instructions
Never used either of these myself, but they're worth looking at.
It would probably be cheaper to just buy a new wheel, though. Unless you want to make a bunch of other carbon-fiber stuff.

ok, f*ck chainwhips. i hate them and they break and they don't work. i just used the rotafix method and holy sh*t! like magic it was.