A friend and I performed a unique DIY fix the other day. He has an old Phil Wood hub, which is not threaded for a lockring. He's been using red loctite to hold his cog in place, but it works loose after a short time, especially when he rides brakeless. We were messing around with our bikes in my basement, and decided to try out an idea.
We ground the flange off the cog, taking it almost all the way down to the thickness of the teeth (it's a 3/32" cog). Now, the cog is thin enough that a lockring fits on over it. It's a bb lockring, so it's not reverse threaded, but it works. The lockring holds the cog on securely despite the thread direction, but to make sure it would hold we applied loctite to the whole assembly. Now, it's solid as a rock!
1 Phil Wood hub + 1 Phil Wood cog + 1 old bb lockring + 1 hour on my bench grinder = perfect solution. DIY to the max!

what about the chainline? that'd be like a 38mm chainline now. crazy dishing?

The chainline is actually pretty good. I'll post pics asap, once we take some of the reassembled bike.

a phil wood suicide hub.

and i thought i had heard it all.

you guys could probably sell that and get a decent track/fixed specific hub.

edit: yes i know its not as easy, but i'm just saying. probably because i'm an ass.

yeah, what a shame

wait... did you break my chainwhip? hahahaha, i sure hope not...

i broke mine the other night. ****er exploded!

mine is the dura-ace... i would sure hope that **** is explode-proof...

I wanted to polish some aluminum parts recently but was told they were not anodized, even though they look exactly like the stem Jol used. I was instructed to buff them with Scotch-Brite (Scotch-Brite is the green abrasive surface on the back of a kitchen sponge) and then polish them with Aluminum polish. Well, the Scotch-Brite totally ****ed up the finish on the parts and the Al polish barely did anything. They all just look like brushed aluminum now and I'm super-pissed. Later, I tried polishing an area I hadn't used Scotch-Brite on and it was reflective as a mirror after some polishing... WTF?!

I guess my question is: How does the oven cleaner not destroy the finish under the anodization? And do you think I should try the oven cleaner method first and then polish them up again?

http://www.bbinstitute.com/BM5%20chap%2013.pdf
i don't know if this will help, it's in my bookmarks.

the aluminum polish is actually removing the aluminum oxide from the surface. aluminum oxidizes fairly readily which is what gives it the dull finish that is typical of older aluminum parts. oven cleaner is a basic (KOH or NaOH) compound that will dissolve the oxide layer and leave you with a clean Al surface then a slight buff to make it shine and youre all good.

there is no finish under the anodization that is bare aluminum....anodiaztion is basically a controlled oxidation that sometimes you can add colors into...the oven cleaner will remove all that and leave you with bare metal

this is my understanding of the system, but i may not be 100% correct...probably close enough

hey has anyone done a pedal re build yet I am about to do one and need to take photos and post instructions if not

be the one to do it, retem, i could use that info for sure. overhauling pedals is one of the few procedures ive not done to my bike.

There is a tutorial on how to repack MKS Sylvans. I don't remember who did it, but its somewhere in this thread I think.

ok first put on a pot of coffee
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/8577/img8107et9.jpg
second get every thing you need nearby
http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/3447/img8108yv2.jpg
loosen and remove dust cap
http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/2218/img8109qp9.jpg
man these bearings are dry (probably haven't seen day light since the factory)
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/5981/img8110xq4.jpg
now remove the lock nut
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/4889/img8111ww2.jpg
now remove the bearing cone
http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/7019/img8112aq2.jpg
spindle is out catch the bearing seperate the inside and out side bearings
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/8376/img8113ee4.jpg

dirty parts get clean (use pint thinner or a degreaser or wd40) whipe all excess cleaner away
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/9092/img8114zh9.jpg
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/9917/img8116qo9.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/5364/img8115zz4.jpg
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/8039/img8117pj9.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/479/img8118lt6.jpg
dob the bearings in grease with a paper clip (I use white lithium because it is cheap water and scorch resistant)
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/9803/img8120wi9.jpg
and into the cups
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3186/img8121ol5.jpg
the spindle goes in
http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/3503/img8119qz6.jpg
repeat on the outboard and set the cone race
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/8810/img8122je8.jpg

now set the lock nut (I use some blue locktight on the threads for a little added safety but only on the lock nut!!!)
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/5065/img8123uc5.jpg
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/1874/img8124qd4.jpg

sorry so image heavy but they really help thanks to my soon to be sold kkt top runs for lending themselves to this project and thanks for not deleting it not bad for 20 year od track pedals

pm me if you want em

Nice. Hey Retem - please explain how you made the cottered crankarm chainwhip you were showing off way back when. What did you use to attach the chain to the arm? I can't figure it out....

That's an awesome coffeepot.

I will post pics but I filed down two quick links see below for my op

thanks it was 7 bucks at ross it make 6-shots of espresso go go juice man

This is straight out of my junk bin but it looks and works nice here it is

1. old cottered crank arm left
2. spare bits of chain 1/8" is nice
3. 3/32" drill bit and 1/4" drill bit
4. quick links cuz I am lazy


voila!!

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/5...7989cd2.th.jpg

Ok, think I got it - did you drill a hole opposite the cotter pin hole with the bit, then run the quick link through the original and drilled holes? What are the two bits for?

yea, i'm kind of confused by it too.

used the cotter pin hole drilled two holes into it I use two bits because the metal is pretty hard and it is better to do it this way it makes your drill and your bit last longer

Gotcha. Weekend project, ahoy!

let me know how it goes

dude, macro setting when you're taking up close pics.

Thanks Queerpunk
 

The process is a lot more simple then expected. I had a hard time removing the outer cone due to the funny head shape. I ended up using a flat head inserted half way into one of the indents (MKS). I am a little nervous i didnt re-tighten the nut atop the cone enough but better less then too much. Thanks.

no macro on the camera sorry

yeah they often have that a pin spanner or bent nose pliers also works