Bike Forums - Do It Yourself (DIY)

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Quote:

Originally Posted by hockeyteeth

I wanted to polish some aluminum parts recently but was told they were not anodized, even though they look exactly like the stem Jol used. I was instructed to buff them with Scotch-Brite (Scotch-Brite is the green abrasive surface on the back of a kitchen sponge) and then polish them with Aluminum polish. Well, the Scotch-Brite totally ****ed up the finish on the parts and the Al polish barely did anything. They all just look like brushed aluminum now and I'm super-pissed. Later, I tried polishing an area I hadn't used Scotch-Brite on and it was reflective as a mirror after some polishing... WTF?!

I guess my question is: How does the oven cleaner not destroy the finish under the anodization? And do you think I should try the oven cleaner method first and then polish them up again?

the aluminum polish is actually removing the aluminum oxide from the surface. aluminum oxidizes fairly readily which is what gives it the dull finish that is typical of older aluminum parts. oven cleaner is a basic (KOH or NaOH) compound that will dissolve the oxide layer and leave you with a clean Al surface then a slight buff to make it shine and youre all good.

there is no finish under the anodization that is bare aluminum....anodiaztion is basically a controlled oxidation that sometimes you can add colors into...the oven cleaner will remove all that and leave you with bare metal

this is my understanding of the system, but i may not be 100% correct...probably close enough

hey has anyone done a pedal re build yet I am about to do one and need to take photos and post instructions if not

be the one to do it, retem, i could use that info for sure. overhauling pedals is one of the few procedures ive not done to my bike.

There is a tutorial on how to repack MKS Sylvans. I don't remember who did it, but its somewhere in this thread I think.

ok first put on a pot of coffee
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/8577/img8107et9.jpg
second get every thing you need nearby
http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/3447/img8108yv2.jpg
loosen and remove dust cap
http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/2218/img8109qp9.jpg
man these bearings are dry (probably haven't seen day light since the factory)
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/5981/img8110xq4.jpg
now remove the lock nut
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/4889/img8111ww2.jpg
now remove the bearing cone
http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/7019/img8112aq2.jpg
spindle is out catch the bearing seperate the inside and out side bearings
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/8376/img8113ee4.jpg

now set the lock nut (I use some blue locktight on the threads for a little added safety but only on the lock nut!!!)
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/5065/img8123uc5.jpg
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/1874/img8124qd4.jpg

sorry so image heavy but they really help thanks to my soon to be sold kkt top runs for lending themselves to this project and thanks for not deleting it not bad for 20 year od track pedals

pm me if you want em

Nice. Hey Retem - please explain how you made the cottered crankarm chainwhip you were showing off way back when. What did you use to attach the chain to the arm? I can't figure it out....

That's an awesome coffeepot.

I will post pics but I filed down two quick links see below for my op

Quote:

Originally Posted by jim-bob

That's an awesome coffeepot.

thanks it was 7 bucks at ross it make 6-shots of espresso go go juice man

This is straight out of my junk bin but it looks and works nice here it is

1. old cottered crank arm left
2. spare bits of chain 1/8" is nice
3. 3/32" drill bit and 1/4" drill bit
4. quick links cuz I am lazy

voila!!

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/5...7989cd2.th.jpg

Ok, think I got it - did you drill a hole opposite the cotter pin hole with the bit, then run the quick link through the original and drilled holes? What are the two bits for?

yea, i'm kind of confused by it too.

used the cotter pin hole drilled two holes into it I use two bits because the metal is pretty hard and it is better to do it this way it makes your drill and your bit last longer

Gotcha. Weekend project, ahoy!

let me know how it goes

dude, macro setting when you're taking up close pics.

Thanks Queerpunk

The process is a lot more simple then expected. I had a hard time removing the outer cone due to the funny head shape. I ended up using a flat head inserted half way into one of the indents (MKS). I am a little nervous i didnt re-tighten the nut atop the cone enough but better less then too much. Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AfterThisNap

dude, macro setting when you're taking up close pics.

no macro on the camera sorry

Quote:

Originally Posted by clayborne

yeah they often have that a pin spanner or bent nose pliers also works

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryand

a phil wood suicide hub.

and i thought i had heard it all.

you guys could probably sell that and get a decent track/fixed specific hub.

edit: yes i know its not as easy, but i'm just saying. probably because i'm an ass.

Bwahahaha.
Yes, it could be sold... And yes, it could be replaced with a track hub. But then that'd be too easy, much less fun, and unworthy of a post in the DIY thread.

...besides, there's nothing quite like running brakeless with a hub that could (in theory, and if we hadn't applied a lockring and plenty of red loctite) toss your cog right off any ol' time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by djembob02

You're right its actually really easy. I found that even if an old wheel is very fubar it still isn't rocket science. Just be sure you know which way is tightening, which is loosening. Also use a good spoke wrench. The first time I did this I used a real cheap wrench that has 12 or so different sizes. The smallest size was not small enough for the nipples. This meant that I rounded many of them. If I remember right, you would turn your spoke wrench counterclockwise. Here's a step by step

1. Check the wheel, make sure it seems to be in good structural shape. Make sure no spokes are broke, might as well check the hub.
2. Especially on an old wheel. put a small drop of thin oil (transmission fluid or some all purpose lubricant) on each spoke. spin the wheel so that the oil goes into the nipple threads. This step is to prevent the spoke from braking or stripping.
3. If you don't have a trueing stand (I don't) put the wheel on the bike and turn the bike over. If you have a brake tighten the brake so that it barely touches the wheel. If there's no brake, you can clamp something to the fork/seat stay that sticks out. You could even do something crude like rubber banding a pen (with cap on) to the bike. Adjust it so that it barely touches the rim. (the easiest way to detect it is to listen for when the wheel is rubbing.)
4. Spin the wheel. In the spot where it hits the pen/brake/whatever, tighten the spoke on the opposite side. Also note that if you have to make significant changes, you will likely need to loosen the other spoke. For example, if the wheel is wobbly to the right, you would tighten the left spoke and loosen the right. Only make small changes, half a turn at a time.
5. After the correction, spin the wheel. If it still rubs, do it again. If it rubs somewhere else on the wheel, do it there.
6. After the wheel doesn't rub, tighten the brake or move the pen closer, Repeat previous steps.
7. Keep doing this until the wheel is true.
8. Adjust the brake back to normal, or remove the pen.

To redish the wheel, maybe to improve chainline or to use a "suicide" hub. loosen all the spokes on one side one turn, tighten all the spokes on the opposite one turn. This will move the whole rim a small amount. Then true the wheel as desribed. If it needs to go over more, do it again.

Hope this helps, it really isn't that hard. Sorry I don't have any pics. If nobody else posts some, I can probably add some tommorrow night. I don't think my wheels need it, but I can demonstrate anyway.

So I got a spoke wrench today, where does flicking the spokes and listening to the tone it makes play into all of this? I don't think the wheel I'm practicing on isn't very much out of true as it is, but hypothetically if my wheel is perfectly tensioned, all spokes should have the exact same tone when flicked, correct?

Also, when the spoke is on the top of the wheel, righty tighty and lefty loosey, correct?

Quote:

Originally Posted by andre nickatina

Also, when the spoke is on the top of the wheel, righty tighty and lefty loosey, correct?

If you are looking at the nipple from the top (that is, through the rim), then it is righty tighty lefty loosey. Imagine you are tightening and loosening the nipple like a screw with a screwdriver if you get confused.