Why not jusy buy some foam pipe insulation and some duct tape.Cut out a piece place it on the top tube and wrap it with the duct tape. Done.

like this? I wrapped mine in electric tape
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Looks nice!

thanks. only $2. the electric tape makes it look like leather in person

Heres a way to give your back a break from those pointy objects in your bag. I have a removable liner so this may only work with bags that have a floating liner

Foam pads and large pot holders
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Start stackin
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Make a sandwich
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Look at your bag
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Open your liner
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Pull it out
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Stuff it in (def not an inuendo)
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After your done, push and feel your new cushion for your back
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^^Pretty sweet!

I made my own bike polo mallet.
They're pretty sweet and only cost $5


click for flickr photoset

Updates added. Thank you for your support.

anybody have any ideas on aftermarket reflective tape/cloth (for a bag) that actually looks good?
I tried some tape from SprawlMart but it looked horrible and lasted for 2 days.
thanks

You need to sew it than seal the seams and thread holes on the inside rubber cement works but if you mix a little bit of clear silicon and mineral spirits you get a nice quality seam sealer. A lot of the ultra light hiker guys use this concoction on their home made gear. This is also good if you make your own mess bags and what nots.

3m scotch lite I think it is called you can get it at fabric stores

is it possible to make your own clipless shoes?
i have a pair of beat up pumas that i love though the soles are wearing thin. is it at all possible to rip out the soles, put a piece of plastic with a depressed cleat in, and maybe line the heal with plastic to make it a bit more sturdy?

I asked the same question not too long ago and the general consensus is that stiffness of the sole would be non-existent, giving you the power transfer of a wet noodle. I'd imagine it'd be hellaciously difficult to keep the recessed cleat in place, seeing as how rubber stretches and any screws would be bound to come loose.

I was just thinking of this the other day! I would like to try to remove the rubber sole and put something stiffer in its place. I will try this soon and post results if successful.

Question for people that have repacked bearings on MKS pedals and the like: Did your pedals ever spin slower after the overhaul? I know spinning slower doesn't mean it's gotten worse, but my left pedal feels a little gritty. I've checked the races and they seem fine. I even re-cleaned it and packed it full of grease....still not a smooth roll. Should I just tighten it down to a semi-smooth roll and hope it pans out?

readjust the bearing cone

Super Sketch Double Strap Holders. So easy no beer is needed.... unless you want to.

1 Cannibalize backpack strap.



2 Cut off about an inch and a half section



3 Remove padding



4 Cut slits an thread straps



ta da!





edit:
These took me a grand total of ten min to make, and i when i tried riding them i could tell. If you do this i would suggest taking a little more time and getting the spacing down right.

Added Super Sketch Double Strap Holders.

Ceiling Cat thanks you, YellowJeep.

Pretty old...

Yeah...and it's still funny.

excellent job.

im still laughing so hard as i type this ...lol carleton

+7. same here.

and the "omg" later made it even worse.

How to mod a Surly Tuggnut chain tensioner to work with Campy 1010 or similar horizontal dropouts

I am told that this mod is not necessary to make a Tuggnut work acceptably on horizontal dropouts, but it seems to me that it provides an extra level of security that can't hurt.

This diagram is a bit messy but clear enough I hope. The actual mod is stupidly simple when you see it in person, it's just a bit tricky to describe.

(1) shows a Tuggnut in normal operation. Note how when the track nut is tight it holds its position very securely---because the bit of metal is poking into the end of the track ends, it win't swivel up or down, and of course it can't go left or right because of the axle nut's tension. After my mod the Tuggnut is secured against up-down motion according to the same general principle, but this time by poking a much smaller piece of metal into the little hole in the back of a Campy 1010 or similar dropout, as seen in (4). (2) shows the area of the metal bit that you take off with a round file, after removing the bolt. (3) shows what the thing looks like after the mod; notice that a little knob is now sticking out. (4) demonstrates how the modded Tuggnut interfaces with the dropout's little hole. The mod works with any dropout that has a hole like this. I made sure though that the metal bit is still able to press against the back of the dropout as seen in (4) (this is the reason for the round shape I filed out), and that the little knob is not actually pressing on the inside of the hole.



(this cut off text says "you'll need to remove this little collar first")

I destroyed my retaining collar in the process of removal, so now the metal bit is free to come off the bolt. I bet I could find a new one but in practice it isn't really needed; when the wheel is off and the Tuggnut is still on the axle, gravity pulls the Tuggnut so that the bolt is pointed up and the metal bit naturally stays on.

Added

The Justice League thanks you, Mander.