dealing with toe overlap on the front tire
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2007
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dealing with toe overlap on the front tire
It's getting really annoying on slow speed sharp turns. Or on very slow maneuvering when I have to turn the wheel to help with balance. I'm fairly new to fixies, so any advice on how to deal with this is appreciated.
#5
Paste Taster
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,392
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From: Sacramento, CA
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
only advice is pratice and riding makes it all good get rollers they really help with tight maneuvering and balance
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: philadelphia
Bikes: stevens prestige, douglas matrix, lemond poprad sscx, specialized rockhopper sl
i am dealing with this issue, but i switched out my toe clips with shorter ones and just got new 165mm cranks instead of the 175mm cranks i was using. if there is any toe overlap left it shouldnt be too big of a deal.
#9
Originally Posted by The Fixer
It becomes a non-issue once you learn to deal with it.
i've got a frontally tight 49cm that's got significant overlap even with 165mm cranks. i thought it would be a big problem for street riding, but it's not. i time my turns (like, between cars, peds, or circling at a light), and if i get close to overlap-moment, i tilt my toe down. barely ever hit.
sure, it takes a bit of practice and coordination, but it's riding a freakin' bike. it's supposed to take practice and coordination.
#10
jack of one or two trades
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Suburbia, CT
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
If it only happens when you go slow, just go fast all the time. You will win all the races, and be famous in no time. Do it.
#12
or get a bike with more slack geometry.
toe overlap in track bike design was never a concern because on the track you never really turn. we're riding bikes on the street that weren't meant to make 90 degree (or tighter) turns, and thus, bad toeverlap. if you wanna ride a small track bike frame, it's part-n'-parcel.
toe overlap in track bike design was never a concern because on the track you never really turn. we're riding bikes on the street that weren't meant to make 90 degree (or tighter) turns, and thus, bad toeverlap. if you wanna ride a small track bike frame, it's part-n'-parcel.
#13
Gone, but not forgotten
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,508
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From: Toronto
Bikes: spicer fixie, Haro BMX, cyclops track, Soma Double Cross, KHS Flite 100
Do what I do and grind your toe clip into the tire and fall over in front of a group of pedestrians. Then stop riding that bike in favor of my bikes with no toe overlap.
#14
Originally Posted by chimblysweep
or get a bike with more slack geometry.
toe overlap in track bike design was never a concern because on the track you never really turn. we're riding bikes on the street that weren't meant to make 90 degree (or tighter) turns, and thus, bad toeverlap. if you wanna ride a small track bike frame, it's part-n'-parcel.
toe overlap in track bike design was never a concern because on the track you never really turn. we're riding bikes on the street that weren't meant to make 90 degree (or tighter) turns, and thus, bad toeverlap. if you wanna ride a small track bike frame, it's part-n'-parcel.
Asking for toe clearance on a track bike is like a race car driver asking for reclining seats. Those features aren't part of the requirements list when the vehicles are being designed.
#16
Utilitarian Boy
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,235
Likes: 5
From: Bronx, NY
Bikes: Check the sig to find out
or just go with an old lugged racing road frame (im talkin like money is not an issue). those have good clearance. my roady is very slight with overlap but handling is great. not as sharp handling as a track but still effective.
#18
Senior Member

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,290
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From: brooklyn, NY
Bikes: Sparton(custon track), Fuji
Originally Posted by queerpunk
truth.
i've got a frontally tight 49cm that's got significant overlap even with 165mm cranks. i thought it would be a big problem for street riding, but it's not. i time my turns (like, between cars, peds, or circling at a light), and if i get close to overlap-moment, i tilt my toe down. barely ever hit.
sure, it takes a bit of practice and coordination, but it's riding a freakin' bike. it's supposed to take practice and coordination.
i've got a frontally tight 49cm that's got significant overlap even with 165mm cranks. i thought it would be a big problem for street riding, but it's not. i time my turns (like, between cars, peds, or circling at a light), and if i get close to overlap-moment, i tilt my toe down. barely ever hit.
sure, it takes a bit of practice and coordination, but it's riding a freakin' bike. it's supposed to take practice and coordination.
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 636
Likes: 2
Track bikes aren't designed by and large to take long cranks (someone mentioned 175's above). But toe overlap is something you can usually avoid on big frames but rarely avoid on smaller ones. Under a 53 cm frame or so, you pretty much have to assume you'll have overlap on both road and track frames. I ride 50's and every bike I have -- road, track, fixie -- has significant overlap.
The only real solution to overlap is to stretch out the frame. Since you don't necessarily want to make the whole frame longer (i.e., lengthen the top tube) you have to change the seat angle or the head angle (steepening the seat angle pulls the crankset back relative to your saddle, while slackening the head angle pushes the front wheel away from the crankset). However, these involve compromises in handling and in other dimensions involved in your fit. So you basically come up with the decision -- do you want overlap or do you want a bike that doesn't fit well or handles badly? It's basic physics and you can't tinker with physics.
In real life, you get used to pedal overlap and it becomes a non-issue.
The only real solution to overlap is to stretch out the frame. Since you don't necessarily want to make the whole frame longer (i.e., lengthen the top tube) you have to change the seat angle or the head angle (steepening the seat angle pulls the crankset back relative to your saddle, while slackening the head angle pushes the front wheel away from the crankset). However, these involve compromises in handling and in other dimensions involved in your fit. So you basically come up with the decision -- do you want overlap or do you want a bike that doesn't fit well or handles badly? It's basic physics and you can't tinker with physics.
In real life, you get used to pedal overlap and it becomes a non-issue.






