Bare metal or paint it
07-19-07 | 04:25 AM
#26
re:member
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Cracow, Poland
Bikes: unknown make TT bike, fixed; Romet Sport, gone; titanium Pinarello gone;Colnago with Campy C-Record/Super Record,on it's way; Funny Gianni Motta; Buehler track, Polrad track chrome; titanium MTB on 28'', fixed; Tri Wheeler, fixed
Yes, of course.
It looked so nice I wanted to leave it clearcoated, I decided to leave just lugs. The problem as explained by somebody knowledgeable here some months ago, is related to the clearcoat shrinking and pulling form the edges because it doesn't stick to bare metal as well as to other layer of the coat.
It looked so nice I wanted to leave it clearcoated, I decided to leave just lugs. The problem as explained by somebody knowledgeable here some months ago, is related to the clearcoat shrinking and pulling form the edges because it doesn't stick to bare metal as well as to other layer of the coat.
07-19-07 | 08:47 AM
#28
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 21
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any recommendations to brands/types of paints to use?
I'm also thinking of starting a similar project, but for the first time.
oh yeah, what do you suggest is the most effective method of stripping the old paint? thanks.
I'm also thinking of starting a similar project, but for the first time.
oh yeah, what do you suggest is the most effective method of stripping the old paint? thanks.
07-19-07 | 09:19 AM
#29
Thread Starter
McNightrider
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 389
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2 coats of industrial filler primer (save u from sanding it.)
2-3 coat of paint (any paint from hardware store should be finee..some hammer on paint is awesome)
2 coat of clear coat.
Tips: Dust free environment, 1 to 2 hrs between each coat.
Cheer,
Dub.
07-19-07 | 10:34 AM
#31
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 21
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Stripping on paint using gel type paint stripper...which is cheap and effective. Can get quite messy.
2 coats of industrial filler primer (save u from sanding it.)
2-3 coat of paint (any paint from hardware store should be finee..some hammer on paint is awesome)
2 coat of clear coat.
Tips: Dust free environment, 1 to 2 hrs between each coat.
Cheer,
Dub.
2 coats of industrial filler primer (save u from sanding it.)
2-3 coat of paint (any paint from hardware store should be finee..some hammer on paint is awesome)
2 coat of clear coat.
Tips: Dust free environment, 1 to 2 hrs between each coat.
Cheer,
Dub.
1 thing, when you mention any paint from hardware store, your specifically referring to spray paint correct? and what is hammer on paint? as you can see this is a new endeavor for me.
07-19-07 | 10:48 AM
#32
Thread Starter
McNightrider
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 389
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Cheer,
Dub.
07-19-07 | 11:03 AM
#33
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 312
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From: NYC
Bikes: Nashbar CR-5
not to hijack..but Vee Dub, are you on vwvortex?
This is reminding me alot of something that happened in the MKIII forum of the vortex,,some guys took their hoods and ground them down to bare metal to let them rust much like the old rat rods.
This is reminding me alot of something that happened in the MKIII forum of the vortex,,some guys took their hoods and ground them down to bare metal to let them rust much like the old rat rods.
07-19-07 | 03:28 PM
#36
Spelling Snob
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,862
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From: Plano, Texas
Bikes: Panasonic DX4000, Bianchi Pista
I seem to recall a thread on this subject a while back in which a few people chimed in claiming that a clear coat was not enough to prevent rust. If I remember correctly, they said that after a few weeks rust started to develop *under* the clear coat. There were at least two or three people that corroborated this claim. I've never done it myself---nor do I understand the chemistry that might explain why regular paint would prevent rust but a clear coat alone would not---but I would recommend painting it to be safe.
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07-19-07 | 05:12 PM
#37
Thread Starter
McNightrider
Joined: Mar 2007
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Light Sand with 1200 to 2000grit between each coat to remove dust and dirt (since it is impossible to have a complete dust free environment). Sanding the bare metal using lower grit round 800 to create rough texture to enable the primer to adhere on the bare-metal.
U can use different sand paper depends how u want ur paint to turn out..using higher grit take longer but more precises.
U can use different sand paper depends how u want ur paint to turn out..using higher grit take longer but more precises.
07-19-07 | 05:41 PM
#39
Thread Starter
McNightrider
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 389
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Hey knuck, sorry I didnt mention about paint striping..i just use paint stripper (gel like) substances, use a brush to put it on and then scrap it off. I think any fast acting paint stripper will do the job. Good luck
07-19-07 | 05:53 PM
#40
Senior Member
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07-23-07 | 02:58 AM
#49
What happened?
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,918
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From: Around here somewhere
Bikes: 3 Rollfasts, 3 Schwinns, a Shelby and a Higgins Flightliner in a pear tree!
Seriously I have noidea what frame is that..but ppl said its either kuwakawa or Miyata. PPl said kywakawa never produce track frame then i guess its miyata as ppl said.
Yer here u go the picture..the fork been painted with so call "creative blue but more like a peral sky blue..:
It closer to whiteish blue..the photo aint justifying the colour.
Will paint the riser and with white oary grip..any suggestiong??
Yer here u go the picture..the fork been painted with so call "creative blue but more like a peral sky blue..:
It closer to whiteish blue..the photo aint justifying the colour.
Will paint the riser and with white oary grip..any suggestiong??
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