Ok so to start this is not really a which is better deep v's vs everything else thread.


I just took possession of some new low flange 28h Dura Ace hubs, they are going to be pretty much strictly track wheel so bombproofness is not a big issue. The will be built with radial Hoshi blades up front, so i can use the front as a nice match to my disc, and the rear will be 3x with (i hope) tied and soldered 15g spokes.

The only question left is what kind of rims? Some thing light and areo or something really light and not so areo... I need some sugestions.

velocity aero head....

open pro. my duraace/open pro wheels are very light.

second open pros...light and smooth...skip the bladed spokes, not needed.

Open Pros. Probably the best aluminum rim that the average cyclist can afford.

...and the ceramic ones mimic the look of older anodized tubies!!!! Remove the decals and go!

I was actually thinking tubs might be cool, a guy i work with bought a bunch of them when a shop was going out of bussiness, i need to find out what all he has.

and as to the bladed spokes, i have very easy access to them.

1. Aerohead or Open Pro if light weight is your priority

2. Velocity Deep V if aero is your priority

3. A great weight-aero compromise is the Mavic CXP 33. Its a very high quality rim that is slighly more aero than an open pro, but still much lighter than a deep-v.

If you want light and aero do what I did and get Niobium30 (30mm deep duh) rims by IRD, Speedcific or others (all made by the same people). Oddsandendos.com has the 28 hole version for $65 each shipped (yes shipping is included in that price). They weigh 465g which is 100g lighter than the Velocity Deep V spec. https://oddsandendos.safeshopper.com/9/130.htm?947

Hmm...the Niobium30 sounds like a good alternative to the CXP 33...the rim that I've been swearing by for the past 2.5 years.

DT swiss makes a deep profile rim, and thier normal road clincher is a little lighter than the open pro.

Check out the IRD cadence rims. They are super light.

Mavic Argent 7 or Or 10 if light is needed ( the former in 28h is <280g the latter is lighter.
Nisi aero - very light but not durable at all if aero is preference.

I'm building up a track / sunny day wheelset consisting of an Aerohead / DA combo with (maybe) soldered/tied spokes. The consensus is Open Pro's are the better rim but I had a lot of trouble finding them for a reasonable price so I just said screw it and went with Aeroheads.

Just my luck though: https://www.velospace.org now has a used set of Open Pro's to Suntour Superbe (!) hubs, $350 in the for sale/trade section.

some dt swiss r1.1's are what i'd get.

I just posted this:
https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/323003-velocity-escape.html

Andre, it was your thread that made me want to tie and solder my spokes, so yeah... keep me updated on your build

Is you disk nice? If so sell it and buy used zipp 420s or something. Put your aero money where it will do the most good.

If you just want training wheels and plan to get a real aero front at some point ditch the DA hubs and get some formula/reflex wheels or something for less then the price of the hubs. No reason to blow money on 28 bladed spoke laced to really expensive hubs if you're just going to train on them.

Bad choice of spokes front and rear. Hoshis are heavy and break at the nonexistant head.

15g in the rear means your spoke head is loose in the hub hole which is drilled for 14g. And why go for round spokes for the rear wheel? The day you can't use your disk you're forced to use a wheel with the aerodynamic properties of a brick.

So first, spokes for the front wheel and non-drive side of the rear wheel - radial: DT Aero Speeds - https://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp?fus...kedetail&id=10

Rear spokes, 3x on drive side rear: Sapim CX Rays - https://www.sapim.be/index.php?st=pro...40&detail=aero

Then for rims, Velocity, Open Pro, CXP 33 are heavy and road oriented (and most are clinchers.)

Of the vintage rims you can find on eBay etc, see if you can find: Wolber Profil A, Assos, or Araya SuperAero. All three come in at under 320 grams.

Or for modern rims, Zipp 404s, Extremes (https://www.x-tremecycling.com/viewpr...roductID=blade - they used to sell the rims separately, maybe still do) or Reynolds (again, buying the rim alone could be tricky https://www.reynoldscycling.com/produ...ls_dv46ul.html).

If you can find an old LEW Sydney rim definitely buy it. It's the perfect track rim for a front wheel.

Slightly OT but I'm building my 1st wheel (36h xt hub + mavic a719 for my commuter/ tourer) and was wondering whether anyone can recommend a good OBS for buying rims and wheel parts. So far I know about Harris.

aebike.com

DAMN. good advice IMHO.
i'd build with tubular rims too.

I'm not trying to be an ass but why then are high-end wheelset offerings from Mavic, Fulcrum and Shimano being spoked radial on the drive side and then either 2x or 3x on the non drive side? Just curious is all.

Is shimano doing that now too? I thought it was just ksyriums. I think the logic is that with a shorter spoke on the drive side it keeps the angle of the spokes on both sides similiar. Since the angle is simliar so is the tension required to keep the rim in shape and therefore the non-driveside will transfer force to the rim.

It was popular to make the non-driveside radial since on a highly offset wheel with a symmetric pattern all of the force goes through the tighter drive side spokes. This has other benefits too.

All of this is much less or not advantageous on low or no offset track/ss wheels.

In addition to Dutret's spot-on comments I'd just add that.

a. the jury's still out even on road wheels for what side is best to keep radial

b. radial non-drive side is more aero - important for track. The 3x side is largely hidden behind the seattube.