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MONSTER Toe Overlap!
This has been covered many times but generally favor toward the mild cases of it. I need feedback from those who ride with this much overlap
http://oldskooltrack.com/files/images/overlap.gif http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2005...hrenwald-4.jpg I'm in the works of trading for a bike with this much but want those who actually ride with this much, in the street, to tell me is it annoying/dangerous for them. I have experience with toe overlap and its not a problem but never had this much so just need any tips on how to handle. Thanks *btw i wear a 13 and I know about the clipless helping a bit |
the first pic and second pic are way different.
i ride with about the amount in the first pic it's only a prob a slow speeds. i would never ride a bike with as much overlap as the second pic. edit: i guess they are the same. nevermind. i just had to look at it a second time. for some reason the bottom one looks way tighter. |
it also looks like the cranks are longer than 165mm in teh second pic. i think...
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I thought the same thing.
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Get shorter cranks.
Duh. |
That's some serious overlap as it's not just your toe but the pedal looks like it could strike the wheel.
The most overlap I have on any bike is just enough for the toe clip to brush the wheel and even that interfered a little with trackstands...a switch to 700:25 wheels and tires from the 27 by 1's really helped to eliminate the toe overlap issue. Of course... I only have to deal with size 8 feet. What does your fork look like ? |
Originally Posted by eXCeSS
(Post 5364994)
Get shorter cranks.
Duh. |
Maybe you should show some pics of the actual bike in question.
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shorter toeclips too.. haha. i head from L to M mks toeclips, you get 1.5cm shorter.
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
(Post 5365010)
The most overlap I have on any bike is just enough for the toe clip to brush the wheel and even that interfered a little with trackstands...
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i ride with that much. you get used to it after a while
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Originally Posted by deathhare
(Post 5365028)
Maybe you should show some pics of the actual bike in question.
http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2005...Vahrenwald.htm |
Originally Posted by baxtefer
(Post 5365104)
you're doin' it wrong.
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That's a great looking bike and the geometry is pretty tight... the full size pics don't make the toe overlap look as extreme as I thought it was although it's still on the extreme end of the scale.
If it was an insurmountable problem then changing the fork could offer more clearance but we would not want to go there. |
Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
(Post 5365010)
=
The most overlap I have on any bike is just enough for the toe clip to brush the wheel and even that interfered a little with trackstands... |
what he means is turn your wheel towards the foot that is forward,
with your trailing foot opposite the direction in which the wheel is turned it aint no problem |
Originally Posted by kaiju-velo
(Post 5365186)
what he means is turn your wheel towards the foot that is forward,
with your trailing foot opposite the direction in which the wheel is turned it aint no problem |
i don't have toe overlap problems because i just stop, put both feet down, and then pick up the bike into my crotch by the stem and saddle and shift my hips around to point the bike in another direction.
with my super amazing skid stop skillz and ultra-nutty peanut buttery silk-smooth technique for picking up the bike while over the top tube, i can actually turn faster this way than I can by timing my turns with my pedal positions. in fact, i can do it faster than riding a wheelie and turning in unicycle-mode. i also have the added bonus of pretending i'm in a game of TRON while on my rides. |
you can trackstand with overlap of course, since all njs frames (i assume most track frames) will give you some overlap unless you are using 165 cranks with size S (or maybe M) mks clips and have a resonable long top tube length. Zefal are very long. L size is 1.7cm longer than njs mks steel L size.
I just changed from zefal to MKS 2 days ago, and measured the difference. Both are cheap too. but....if you start riding backwards in circles or want to change directions you are trackstanding, etc...you will have problems with overlap. I have had 3 frames as my daily bikes in the past 10 days, 2 were way too small, just to get me by, and now I have one that fits. The 520 and 530 frames I had overlapped like crazy, but the 550 I have now just taps here and there, not very dangerous at all. I think a 570 frame would be pretty much void of overlapping. A lot of guys over here in Osaka run 650C front wheels, because a lot of them are riding sub-53 frames, there is a lot of overlapping problems. That overlap in the OP's photo is a nightmare! It must be a 49cm frame or something. PS cranks are going to make ****-all difference, to anyone who suggested that. Even going from a 175mm superbe pro to a 165mm (min and max length I think), you are going to take off 1cm. Clips alone can do much more, and cost 10 bucks, but I guess wont be the ideal size after you change :( |
develop a system where you can cut off your feet and attach your stumps to clips.
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^ that made me laugh so much
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Not for nothing, but that geometry is going to really beat you up in NYC.
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i have 2mm clearence bet my tire & down tube,overlap is bad news on this bike.
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the conclusion - extreme track geometries are simply dumb for the street?
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i think it would be tough going in Osaka too!
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