40 bucks for Nitto b123
#5
hahaha
i'd spend more money on the 123aa's because steel bars are heavy which is only good if you like that feel.
i think that with handlebars more than anything else you should actually be able to hold the bars in your hands before you spend more than ten bucks on them.
i'd spend more money on the 123aa's because steel bars are heavy which is only good if you like that feel.
i think that with handlebars more than anything else you should actually be able to hold the bars in your hands before you spend more than ten bucks on them.
#8
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,849
Likes: 0
From: four 1 OHHH , Maryland
Bikes: nagasawa, fuji track pro
#22
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 849
Likes: 1
From: Philadelphia
Bikes: 1985 Pinarello Catena Lusso / 1983 Pinarello Montello / Raleigh Marathon / Camel Cigarettes conversion / 1957 Worksman cruiser / Puch 140 / Raleigh Grand Prix
#23
dan bones!
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 887
Likes: 0
From: brooklyn
Bikes: iro mark v for street, sh itamori peloton for track
actually, an aluminum frame would be one of the biggest reasons for me to go back to steel bars. I'd be a lot less concerned with overall weight and steel bars aren't going to flex on you when you're really mashing like aluminum ones will.
i've got alu bars on an alu stem at the moment, and its just flexy enough that i tend to hold back a little in a full blown sprint.
but i mean, this is all assuming that carbon drops aren't magically granted to me for cheap monies.
i've got alu bars on an alu stem at the moment, and its just flexy enough that i tend to hold back a little in a full blown sprint.
but i mean, this is all assuming that carbon drops aren't magically granted to me for cheap monies.



