Creaking From Cranks
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 28
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From: philly
Bikes: releigh fixed conversion, 70's ross conversion
Creaking From Cranks
Hey guys, i searched and found nothing regarding creaking. When i pedal the left crank arm makes a creaking noise so I tightened it and rode it to see if the sound went away. After 2 blocks the noise came back. Do I need new cranks or a bb? thanks in advance, matt
#3
THIS SPACE FOR RENT
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,849
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Don't continue to tighten it, this can lead to failure. Try tightening the chainring bolts, and stand up while pedaling to make sure it's not in the saddle. A huge number of creaks that sound like other stuff are actually from the saddle area, bikes are a big pile of resonator tubes so finding the source of sounds can be tough.
#4
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
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From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
#6
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 132
Likes: 9
i had a similar problem on my fixed conversion. I actually ended up replacing the BB. I dont know if this will help you, but for me it made sense because when i bought the cranks from my local bike recycler, they came with a bottom bracket which was "used". When i pulled the old BB it had signs of rust and the bearings didnt feel right when i would spin the spindle. But after the replacement ive had zero creaks and it runs perfectly. The cranks in question where shimano 9-spd ultegras, 6500. hope this helps, what kind of cranks are in question ?
#9
Gone Tarcking. Back Later
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Blacksburg, VA
Bikes: Iron Horse Warrior Team (tricked to high heaven), Jamis Coda Sport (frame and fork, built into CX commuter), Gary Fisher Opie Dirt Jumper,SE Lager tarck bike
Square taper cranks, I assume? Left crankarm? Could be the square hole on the crank wallowing out. I've seen it happen on a few too many bikes, including my own. I did myself a favor and replaced (upgraded) the crank/BB to a splined system.
Make sure your left crankarm bolt is sufficiently tight. Otherwise, the BB is just gonna make the hole on the crankarm bigger and more out of shape, leading to continuing loosening and eventual replacement by the frustrated rider.
Make sure your left crankarm bolt is sufficiently tight. Otherwise, the BB is just gonna make the hole on the crankarm bigger and more out of shape, leading to continuing loosening and eventual replacement by the frustrated rider.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 328
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Square taper cranks, I assume? Left crankarm? Could be the square hole on the crank wallowing out. I've seen it happen on a few too many bikes, including my own. I did myself a favor and replaced (upgraded) the crank/BB to a splined system.
Make sure your left crankarm bolt is sufficiently tight. Otherwise, the BB is just gonna make the hole on the crankarm bigger and more out of shape, leading to continuing loosening and eventual replacement by the frustrated rider.
Make sure your left crankarm bolt is sufficiently tight. Otherwise, the BB is just gonna make the hole on the crankarm bigger and more out of shape, leading to continuing loosening and eventual replacement by the frustrated rider.
-Rob.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 672
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From: Charleston, SC
i had to take out the 2 bolts for my thomson seatpost and grease them. that made the clicking noise go away. i had previously thought it came from the cranks, too. i figured it out by pulling/pressing hard on my saddle and found that that duplicated the noise. this may not pertain to you, but hope it may help you or someone else.
#13
aka. vertical jon
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 768
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From: Anaheim, Home of the Los Angeles? Angels of Anaheim... in Orange County?
Bikes: White Carbon Token, Cannondale Mtn, 1975 Peugeot UO-8 Golden Fixed Conversion
#16





