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-   -   Getting a new fork on my fix (https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/378499-getting-new-fork-my-fix.html)

Kol.klink 01-12-08 05:46 PM


Originally Posted by operator (Post 5971313)
Baseless accusations? I don't think so. A cheap carbon fork is much worse than a cheap steel fork. And by cheap I mean, something you would find in a dumpster would be better than your cheap carbon fork.

Do you know why that $75 "carbon" fork has an AL or steel steerer? I would trust that $3 fork before i'll trust your $75 carbon fork of unknown origin and quality. Carbon forks that are quality exist, but not for $75, and certainly not 100% carbon forks, carbon legs don't count.

Pure claptrap until you produce a factual argument. your just slagging a product you have not owned and i imagine have not even ridden.

A cheap steel fork or something out of a dumpster is of "unknown quality and origin". Your logic there confuses me.

What is so bad about about Aluminum steer tubes, both easton and columbus make carbon forks with aluminum steer tubes? so i don't see why they don't "count"


Originally Posted by operator (Post 5971369)

1" Threadless is a bad idea all around - especially going carbon. Instead of rewriting Sheldons post i'll link to it instead:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.p...75&postcount=3

it does not really say why 1" threadless is a bad idea Other than mentioning its not well supported(meaning not many people make forks in the size) its more about potential rake(something to consider whenever you change a fork) issues . and improper placement of a quill stem on a 1" threaded set up. again no real Evidence is to why 1"threaless is bad


I will also admit that for the first 1000K or so i was a bit weary of my cheap carbon fork. but I know trust it and ride it hard riding off curbs and the like. You seem to forget they would not make/sell these things if they broke, a lot. take a look at what happened with spinergy with the REV-x's. they failed so they stopped making them. This fork is has been sold under 3 different brand names that i know of (nashbar,axiom,weyless). do you think narbar would sell them if they got many complaints of failure.

None of you have Provided any evidence is why these forks would not be any good other than they are inexpensive and do not have a brand name on them.

Anyways go carbon, Ride it and be happy. i'm glad i did

sp00ki 01-12-08 06:36 PM

they haven't because they can't.
operator can't wrap his feeble little mind around the idea of something as strong as modern carbon not being metal.
add that to the fact that he's never actually ridden carbon, and you have the posts he's added to this thread.

dewthedew 01-12-08 08:01 PM

Can someone help me find a nice carbon for for my kilo tt? please? also what else would i need to convert it to threadless? i hate my threaded setup.

Kol.klink 01-12-08 11:57 PM

threadless fork and a Threadless head set (lbs will have cheaper ones)

marqueemoon 01-13-08 12:02 AM

Am I the only one concerned about how the bike will actually handle? Who ****ing cares about materials. If the OP doesn't want carbon, then please take the carbon debate elsewhere.

Kol.klink 01-13-08 12:27 PM


Originally Posted by marqueemoon (Post 5973270)
Am I the only one concerned about how the bike will actually handle? Who ****ing cares about materials. If the OP doesn't want carbon, then please take the carbon debate elsewhere.

Good point, Loser do you have any idea what i kind of rake your current fork has?, Basically make sure there is not a large difference between your the replacement and your current one, Other wise, you May end up with a poorly handling bike(Very slow turning, Or overly responsive)

loser 01-13-08 09:19 PM


Originally Posted by Kol.klink (Post 5974820)
Loser do you have any idea what i kind of rake your current fork has?

I know approximatively how much rake there was on the original fork but i just don't know how to calculate it. Am i suppose to mesure the angle or the distance between the point on the ground where a headtube prolongation would arrive and the point right under the fork end.

**** that last one was hard to explain.

Because the original fork was a 27'' with a 27'' wheel front and back, but now I have switched to 700s.
Switching to a 700 fork will change everythng so I guess that since the headtube is a little more close to vertical the rake of the original fork wont't be the best for my 700 fork.

loser 01-13-08 09:47 PM

Sorry for my ignorance, forget the last post.

I know how to mesure the rake now. With a 27'' fork, my headtube was a bit higher than it will be with a 700, this difference will alter the headtube angle, making it steeper, how should i deal with that, do i need a fork with more rake than the original one or less, or the same?


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