Getting a new fork on my fix
#1
Getting a new fork on my fix
I need a new fork (700, threadless, 1'') for my work bike but I never bought any replacement fork. I ride the original fork on all of my other bikes. I thought that maybe someone as a suggestion of the type of fork I should get and why. My frame is lugged steel so I guess putting a carbon fork on that wouldn't be very intelligent since I don't rally count every grams. I was considering straight blade alluminum but I don't know what are the advantage considering the smoothness of the ride, the weight and the durability of a fork like that. Thank you for helping out.
#6
ok, and do you have anything to suggest, any brands. I want something not too expensive, should I go with carbon blades/steel stearer or full carbon. Also I got hit by a car with a carbon road bike and one of the blade broke in two. I though that a steel fork would have resist the impact. I don't plan on getting hit by cars often but I often drop sidewalks and the road in quebec are in very bad condition even downtown. They are full of waht we call ''nid de poule'' https://nouvelles.autonet.ca/FR/Nouve...s_de_poule.jpg
Would you still suggest carbon instead of steel?
Would you still suggest carbon instead of steel?
#7
or tarckeemoon, depending
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,017
Likes: 2
From: the pesto of cities
Bikes: Davidson Impulse, Merckx Titanium AX, Bruce Gordon Rock & Road, Cross Check custom build, On-One Il Pomino, Shawver Cycles cross, Zion 737, Mercian Vincitore, Brompton S1L, Charge Juicer
Do you know the head angle and the rake of the existing/old fork? How big a frame is it?
#8
The bike is a 80's road conversion so it was originally made for 27'' wheels. It as a pretty good geometry since I weld track dropouts to make it tighter with 700. The top tube is going down toward the front of the bike, like 8 degrees with a 700 fork. And the head tube is something like 7 degrees And is very very short for a 54 cm bike, it is like 9-10 cm long. The old fork was an 27'' bent fork, not very good. A straight blade would fit on it and would be prefered to have the front wheel as close as possible to the frame.
#9
or tarckeemoon, depending
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,017
Likes: 2
From: the pesto of cities
Bikes: Davidson Impulse, Merckx Titanium AX, Bruce Gordon Rock & Road, Cross Check custom build, On-One Il Pomino, Shawver Cycles cross, Zion 737, Mercian Vincitore, Brompton S1L, Charge Juicer
The bike is a 80's road conversion so it was originally made for 27'' wheels. It as a pretty good geometry since I weld track dropouts to make it tighter with 700. The top tube is going down toward the front of the bike, like 8 degrees with a 700 fork. And the head tube is something like 7 degrees And is very very short for a 54 cm bike, it is like 9-10 cm long. The old fork was an 27'' bent fork, not very good. A straight blade would fit on it and would be prefered to have the front wheel as close as possible to the frame.
The only threadless 1" steel straight blade fork that comes to mind is Colnago. There have been a few NOS ones posted on ebay recently. Not cheap though.
If you found a threaded fork with a long enough steerer you could also cut it below the theaded section.
#10
my bike Owns me+my wallet
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 709
Likes: 0
From: Sudbury, Ontario
Bikes: Px-10 singeld, 2007 KHS filte 100
Since you are not counting grams, and i gather looking for something simple may i recommend the nashbar carbon fork Nash bar carbon fork
The picture on the site does not do it justice, Its actually quite a nice simple looking fork, The only branding is on the steerer tube, I say go with something Like that, or get a stock fork off a KHS flite/Kilo TT but be warned they are heavy. That is really the reason why i am making an argument for carbon because you are not going to get As light or as Smooth for anything less than twice what you frame is worth. I personally was amazed how stiff/smooth the nashbar fork is for the grand sum of 80$ check the coupon forum and wait for a 20% or free shipping coupon, And just because a Fork is straight blade does not mean is has No rake, the rake is just at the steertube/fork crown instead of in the blades, avoid aluminum forks like the plague, there is a reason why almost no one rides them
The picture on the site does not do it justice, Its actually quite a nice simple looking fork, The only branding is on the steerer tube, I say go with something Like that, or get a stock fork off a KHS flite/Kilo TT but be warned they are heavy. That is really the reason why i am making an argument for carbon because you are not going to get As light or as Smooth for anything less than twice what you frame is worth. I personally was amazed how stiff/smooth the nashbar fork is for the grand sum of 80$ check the coupon forum and wait for a 20% or free shipping coupon, And just because a Fork is straight blade does not mean is has No rake, the rake is just at the steertube/fork crown instead of in the blades, avoid aluminum forks like the plague, there is a reason why almost no one rides them
#11
some new kind of kick
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,542
Likes: 1
From: Smog Valley
Bikes: SOMA Rush, Miyata 912, Kogswell Mod. G, want a porteur bike
SOMA makes a nice threadless
flat crown steel fork--Tange
Prestige steel. In red, black
or chrome. https://store.somafab.com/lutrfo.html
flat crown steel fork--Tange
Prestige steel. In red, black
or chrome. https://store.somafab.com/lutrfo.html
#12
Are we not men?
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,275
Likes: 1
From: Amsterdam for now
SOMA makes a nice threadless
flat crown steel fork--Tange
Prestige steel. In red, black
or chrome. https://store.somafab.com/lutrfo.html
flat crown steel fork--Tange
Prestige steel. In red, black
or chrome. https://store.somafab.com/lutrfo.html
#13
my bike Owns me+my wallet
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 709
Likes: 0
From: Sudbury, Ontario
Bikes: Px-10 singeld, 2007 KHS filte 100
Same as Kilo/flite fork and for a 120. you could go carbon steerer. If you want that Fork, Post a wanted add on CL, i am sure you could find one for 50$, you would probably have to paint it yourself it you want it match. All though i have to admit the chrome is Sexy
Last edited by Kol.klink; 01-12-08 at 01:59 PM.
#14
Ok that Nashbar fork seems perfect, somebody is selling a fork similar to that one. It is a Weyless, I don't know if it is as good as this one though. He's asking 50$ for it. I'll see what I can order at my LBS and ask them what they think about that Nashbar. Thanks a lot.
#16
Hahah, you should see my frame, I sand all the rusty areas to bare metal and just leave it like that before putting a clear coat on it. So it is like original paint green, bare steel and orange primer spots. Montreal is near the top of the bike theif cities list. The goal is to make it as ugly as possible.
And craigslist is not an option since there is nothing right now in my region, there is like 3 feet of snow outside so nobody post anything in the montreal bike category.
And craigslist is not an option since there is nothing right now in my region, there is like 3 feet of snow outside so nobody post anything in the montreal bike category.
#17
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
ok, and do you have anything to suggest, any brands. I want something not too expensive, should I go with carbon blades/steel stearer or full carbon. Also I got hit by a car with a carbon road bike and one of the blade broke in two. I though that a steel fork would have resist the impact. I don't plan on getting hit by cars often but I often drop sidewalks and the road in quebec are in very bad condition even downtown. They are full of waht we call ''nid de poule'' https://nouvelles.autonet.ca/FR/Nouve...s_de_poule.jpg
Would you still suggest carbon instead of steel?
Would you still suggest carbon instead of steel?
#19
my bike Owns me+my wallet
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 709
Likes: 0
From: Sudbury, Ontario
Bikes: Px-10 singeld, 2007 KHS filte 100
Simply Not true, My nashbar carbon fork Rides a Lot smoother and stiffer than my Stock steel one, Further more, When carbon can be for less than a nice lugged fork why not, Granted a cheap uni-crown steel one could be had on nashbar or from the LBS for less. Please explain to me why "cheap plastic" is better than cheap steel, Do not assume because it's made out of metal it's as strong/stronger Stop with your baseless accusations
I don't know about you, but i trust a 75$ carbon fork more than a 3$ fork
I don't know about you, but i trust a 75$ carbon fork more than a 3$ fork
Last edited by Kol.klink; 01-12-08 at 04:10 PM.
#20
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Simply Not true, My nashbar carbon fork Rides a Lot smoother and stiffer than my Stock steel one, Further more, When carbon can be for less than a nice lugged fork why not, Granted a cheap uni-crown steel one could be had on nashbar or from the LBS for less. Please explain to me why "cheap plastic" is better than cheap steel, Do not assume because it's made out of metal it's as strong/stronger Stop with your baseless accusations
I don't know about you, but i trust a 75$ carbon fork more than a 3$ fork
I don't know about you, but i trust a 75$ carbon fork more than a 3$ fork
Do you know why that $75 "carbon" fork has an AL or steel steerer? I would trust that $3 fork before i'll trust your $75 carbon fork of unknown origin and quality. Carbon forks that are quality exist, but not for $75, and certainly not 100% carbon forks, carbon legs don't count.
#22
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Add: Kol.klink is right on the point of comfort and stiffness. There is still a very large difference in terms of cost between a quality steel fork and a carbon one. For a work bike as a messenger, carbon fork doesn't make sense.
1" Threadless is a bad idea all around - especially going carbon. Instead of rewriting Sheldons post i'll link to it instead:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.p...75&postcount=3
1" Threadless is a bad idea all around - especially going carbon. Instead of rewriting Sheldons post i'll link to it instead:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.p...75&postcount=3
Last edited by operator; 01-12-08 at 04:47 PM.
#23
Thanks a lot, i'm all confused now.
But what I've understand is that, it's only a choice, some people prefer steel and some prefer carbon. And no one likes aluminum. I guess I'll just have to figure out by myself by trying both to find out.
But what I've understand is that, it's only a choice, some people prefer steel and some prefer carbon. And no one likes aluminum. I guess I'll just have to figure out by myself by trying both to find out.
#24
some new kind of kick
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,542
Likes: 1
From: Smog Valley
Bikes: SOMA Rush, Miyata 912, Kogswell Mod. G, want a porteur bike
and absorbs a lot of road vibration. Carbon can also be designed to be tough--some MTB forks
are carbon. But I don't know if carbon road ot track forks are intended for the abuse of lots of rough
urban riding--they may be. Quality carbon forks are fine 99.9999 percent of the time. But
when they fail they can fail catastrophically. They don't like abuse. Good carbon forks are also
expensive. Google says that carbon mtn forks are the price of a low end but decent steel frame.
https://www.google.com/products?hl=en...-8&sa=N&tab=wf
yikes
Steel absorbs road vibration, is tougher than carbon and is less expensive. Steel is also classic.
Steel won't be as smooth as carbon. I say go for steel so you don't worry about catastrophic failures but the haters will turn into this an either or argument. . .
#25
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 770
Likes: 0
Get a carbon fork. If you're "afraid" it will break, get a steel one.




