drilling dropouts, and other questions
01-20-08 | 10:33 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 39
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drilling dropouts, and other questions
so i building a old schwinn world
its horizontal dropouts but short ones, and im planning on running a flip flop hub.
is it common practice to drill or dremel out the filled section of the dropout?
is there a easy way to go about it, any writeups?
also im concern about getting the right chainline with my set up
the wheel set is a flip flop hub whell set from a redline 925...
using the stock bottom bracket i'll be running bulletproof cranks, should i have any problems how will i be able to space things out if need it??
last thing the frame i'm building is a 58cm, the drop bars i have are from a 54 which makes me think theyre to small. not sure what bars i want to run in the future. but for time being what kinda measurements should i check to make sure the bars are a good fit for me??
its horizontal dropouts but short ones, and im planning on running a flip flop hub.
is it common practice to drill or dremel out the filled section of the dropout?
is there a easy way to go about it, any writeups?
also im concern about getting the right chainline with my set up
the wheel set is a flip flop hub whell set from a redline 925...
using the stock bottom bracket i'll be running bulletproof cranks, should i have any problems how will i be able to space things out if need it??
last thing the frame i'm building is a 58cm, the drop bars i have are from a 54 which makes me think theyre to small. not sure what bars i want to run in the future. but for time being what kinda measurements should i check to make sure the bars are a good fit for me??
01-20-08 | 10:40 PM
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 676
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From: Boise, Idyho
Bikes: '04 fisher 29er, NYC Bikes CityFixed
Drop outs:
Post pics, if they are the dropouts I think they are (They look like horizontals with most of the dropout filled in), you should be fine filing them out. You only need about 1/4" of back to forth movement.
Chainline: Need the rear wheel spacing, BB length, and Sheldon Brown's site should get you close.
Bars: Ideally they should be shoulder width.
Post pics, if they are the dropouts I think they are (They look like horizontals with most of the dropout filled in), you should be fine filing them out. You only need about 1/4" of back to forth movement.
Chainline: Need the rear wheel spacing, BB length, and Sheldon Brown's site should get you close.
Bars: Ideally they should be shoulder width.
01-20-08 | 11:04 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Drop outs:
Post pics, if they are the dropouts I think they are (They look like horizontals with most of the dropout filled in), you should be fine filing them out. You only need about 1/4" of back to forth movement.
Chainline: Need the rear wheel spacing, BB length, and Sheldon Brown's site should get you close.
Bars: Ideally they should be shoulder width.
Post pics, if they are the dropouts I think they are (They look like horizontals with most of the dropout filled in), you should be fine filing them out. You only need about 1/4" of back to forth movement.
Chainline: Need the rear wheel spacing, BB length, and Sheldon Brown's site should get you close.
Bars: Ideally they should be shoulder width.
ok any idea how to go about drilling it out.
as far as my chainline goes im just wondering if with what i have will I or my lbs be able to play around with it to get a good chainline or am i looking at a new bb and stuff.
ok i'll measure the bars. what you guys think about drop bars for commuting(first time fixie and road rider)
01-20-08 | 11:30 PM
#4
K2ProFlex baby!
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 59
From: My response would have been something along the lines of: "Does your bike have computer controlled suspension? Then shut your piehole, this baby is from the future!"
Bikes: to many to list
My LBS did mine, if I remember correctly they charged me like $12.00 
looked something like this.
looked something like this.
__________________
You see, their morals, their code...it's a bad joke, dropped at the first sign of trouble. They're only as good as the world allows them to be. I'll show you. When the chips are down, these...These "civilized" people...they'll eat each other. See, I'm not a monster. I'm just ahead of the curve
You see, their morals, their code...it's a bad joke, dropped at the first sign of trouble. They're only as good as the world allows them to be. I'll show you. When the chips are down, these...These "civilized" people...they'll eat each other. See, I'm not a monster. I'm just ahead of the curve
Last edited by ilikebikes; 01-20-08 at 11:36 PM.
01-21-08 | 10:39 PM
#6
stay free.
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,557
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From: Ellensburg, WA
Bikes: EAI Bare Knuckle, 1980's Ross Signature 292s 12 speed
You could probably find a small ish hand file and handfile em out. good ole elbow grease should do the trick. If you have a dremel tool that could work well too. As far as your chainline, you can probably get close by putting the chainring on the other side of the cranks you would normally and or using some washers to space it a bit more, or you could measure it with your current bottom bracket, figure out the difference and drop 30 bucks into a bottom bracket that fits the chain line. I think your chainline will probably run 45mm i think, unless you run the freewheel side, in which case it might be different.
